1990 240 wagon front hub bearing test/adjust/replace

[edelmatt]

OK. I readjusted, using the steps you provided. I did a similar test drive. There is much less heat to be sure. But the grease caps are still hot. To where I can keep the back of my hand on them, but barely. I'd estimate 90-105 degrees Fahrenheit. I can do the adjustment again, and err towards the looser side when picking the right notch in the nut for the cotter pin, if that still seems too tight. Keep in mind though that I live in the central valley of California and it was probably 100 degrees outside when I did the test drive.

[93Regina]

There is much less heat to be sure.

If a feeler gauge was used to measure between caster nut and bearing it seats against, there would be around 0.001" clearance, but a slight positive pressure (via light finger tightening) will work also.

Here's a video: How to Replace a Front Wheel Bearing

Again, grab top/bottom of wheel with both hands and try to rock back/forth; if caster nut is too loose, you will feel this slack...once I have caster nut on, I install wheel, then I tighten down caster nut, like he does, until its snug...check for free play (rock with hands)...but, my fingers are used for final "torque."

[abscate]

You can skip the torque wrench completely when adjusting a roller bearing with a thrust washer like this. I don't know the 960 explicitly but old VW wheel bearings were the same type.

Wheel up in air, safely on jack stands.

Install wheel, thrust washer, castellated nut.

Grab the wheel at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock and push/pull along axle axis. The wheel will go thunk thunk thunk back and forth...this is axial play.

Spin the wheel while tightening the thrust washer slowly (1 hex at a time) and feel the axial play getting less and less until it is gone. You will be turning in about1/2 hex increments at this point, or about 30 degree rotations...small increments.

Once the play is gone, install the lock washer and loosen the nut if necessary to install the cotter pin.

It's ok to end up with a small amount of axial play at the end. You don't want a roller bearing too tight, it will generate heat and fail.

[edelmatt]

I pulled off the driver side grease cap again, loosened the nut one notch, and with the up/down test, I could feel play in the bearings. So they must have been just right as-is. I'm going to leave everything alone here and move on.

I think the heat in the caps is transferring after stopping the car. Whatever residual heat from the brake discs is finding it's way to the hub. I noted that right after stopping the car, the caps weren't as hot as they became after a few minutes parked.

[93Regina]

I could feel play in the bearings.

I always move castle nut 1/6 turn tighter until no play exist.

There can be a pinch free play, but I remove it.

[iaguilera]

I Replaced the front pads on my 91 240, and I noticed there was a bit of play when wiggling at the 12 and 6, but none when wiggle at the 3 and 6? any thoughts, I am thinking the wheel spindle nut may not be tight enough, any thoughts? any help would be greatly appreciated.