2003 CV axle install.......the easy way!

[Blacklab467]

Hopefully I can provide some guidance for this job for those who are contemplating a DIY, it's a very easy job that shouldn't take more than 2 hours for both sides. I will also address my technique for removing the often intimidating driver's side axle successfully as there are countless forum threads on the difficulty it can give and provide a method I've been successful with.

The new parts and the eager recipient!

- Loosen lug bolts (19 mm) and axle bolts (13 mm), Then jack car up with the wheels at least 4 inches off the ground. Install at least 2 axle stand under the car. Remove wheels and put them under front of car for added safety.

- Remove the strut to steering knuckle bolts (21 mm bolt, 18 mm nut) and the stabilizer link nut to strut attachment ( 18mm) on both sides. It's also a good idea to remove the ABS sensor in the knuckle (10 mm) and the ABS wire retainer on the strut, these 2 steps are not necessary but will help prevent inadvertent damage from removal and installation of the Axles.

- Remove two 12 mm bolts holding the axle carrier bearing retainer, then pop the retainer off if it doesn't come off on its own.

- Put the key in ignition so you can turn the wheel spindle as required to remove the old axles, push the axle stub through the steering knuckle, compressing the CV joint as you require. Passenger side: carefully remove the axle without damaging the seal in the bevel gear by pulling the axle straight out slowly.
- Install the new axle in the passenger side in the reverse sequence you removed the old one, reattach everything and retorque everything you removed. Congratulate yourself, you're half done..................sort of!

Driver's side:
This is where some people have troubles, the inner spline fits into a dry hole in the transmission and includes a circlip retainer that gets rusty and binds in the spline bore. There is no way to get oil or WD 40 in there to aid in removal.

Mine is well coated in oil as I've replaced the original which was very rusty, make sure your replacement is well oiled when you install it in case you have to remove it again in the future.

- Push the driver's side axle stub through the steering knuckle. Now crawl under the car with your prying tools, this is what I have used with good success.

- Use a combination of two pry bars 60 degrees apart between the transmission housing and the axle housing, there's only 3 or 4 mm to get the prying devices between as shown below.

- Alternate pressure on the two prybars several times being careful to not damage the transmission case. If it doesn't pop out, rotate the axle and pry in two places and try again. You should be prying on two of the six "knobs" of the axle housing as shown in the picture below:

Keep doing this until the axle pops out, use your discretion on how hard to pry without damaging the aluminum case, in my experience its more about technique rather than force, use 2 prybars and continue to pry and rotate until you find the magic spot and it pops out.
Install the new shaft in the transmission, this will require a good push to get the new circlip to seat. Grasp the CV housing with both hands as close to the transmission as you can and give it a good slam until you can feel it seat, you'll want to make sure it is straight in the bore before you slam it in. It should look like this:

- Maneuver the outer axle stub through the steering knuckle and reattach all fasteners and retorque as per specs below.
Wheel studs: 120Nm or 140Nm check your specific vehicle.
Axle bolt: 35Nm plus 90 degrees. 50Nm if you have a used OEM Driver's axle with the rubber cone.
Strut to knuckle bolts: 105Nm plus 60 degrees.
Link to Strut: 50Nm

Notes:
Outer axle splines may have rusted in the wheel hub and require penetrant spray to remove, I'v encountered this at the junkyard.
Axle bolt and strut to knuckle bolts are one time use items, new axle bolt is usually included in new shafts.
Use caution to not hyperextend axle components when handling or installing.
Mark orientation of strut to knuckle prior to disassembly to ensure proper alignment camber after reinstallation.
Finally, If you follow the technique for removing the driver's side and are still unsuccessful, you can put that side back together and drive it to the shop and have it done, you will have saved yourself half the shop labour having replaced the passenger side yourself. Nothing ventured, nothing gained!

Spend good money and get good axles! This job took me 1 hour and 35 minutes with hand tools taking pictures along the way. Why so fast?.............because this is the fourth time I've done it due to poor quality parts, this time I went with genuine GKN axles. Good luck!

[matthew1]

Blacklab, excellent writeup. This photo is especially outstanding (but they all are very good):





That Mopar is a Challenger? '68ish? 318, 340, gasp 426 or gasp 440? Discussion continued here.

[- Pete -]

Blacklab, excellent writeup. This photo is especially outstanding (but they all are very good):





That Mopar is a Challenger? '68ish? 318, 340, gasp 426 or gasp 440? Discussion continued here.

I was going to say the same. Thanks for the fresh how-to Blacklab! My technique in the past has been similar. I’m always concerned about how much force gets applied to the face of the transmission case though. Granted, I’ve never punched a hole, thankfully.

I have a couple new tools that have been nice to use. If anyone is apprehensive, fearful or struggling with the drivers side (or rear CV axles), you can borrow my tools. I also have the special ball joint installer/tool, free to borrow as well. Just pay shipping both ways & return undamaged.

Steck Manufacturing axle popper 71410 (Amazon is about $50-55): https://steckmfg.com/product/71410_axle ... -shim-kit/

Volvo tool is part number 9995681. I did not purchase from the following link.
https://www.freedomracing.com/9995681-d ... -tool.html

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[SVO LOU]

All I know is I used to be a Ford/Lincoln/Mercury Technician and worked as an ASE Tech for almost 10 years and probably changed close to 100 half-shafts and the drivers side one on my 01 XC70 was the hardest ever, without a doubt.

[abscate]

Spend good money and get good axles! This job took me 1 hour and 35 minutes with hand tools taking pictures along the way. Why so fast?.............because this is the fourth time I've done it due to poor quality parts, this time I went with genuine GKN axles. Good luck!

Ooof.

How many times must the cheap parts fly, before they are forever banned?

Peter Paul and Mary

[Blacklab467]

HaHAHA! They should be banned! I remember when I was a mechanic apprentice in the late '80's, most of the jobber parts were made in the USA and generally acceptable quality. That sure isn't the case anymore!

[abscate]

Hmmm, I can check mine today…, winds 38mph gusting to 50. Maybe not

On Long Island in the heart of blizzard this morning

[jonesg]

If all else fails, dismantle the shaft.
Grab the cup with vice grips and attach a slide hammer to the vice grip.
We used a nut and bolt to connect grip to slide hammer, and steel hose clamp to prevent the vice grip handle from popping open.
2 hits and it was out.

[Krons]

I got lucky last month with driver side CV on my 02 S60 2.4T, came out without too much difficulty with two prybars front and rear. Even went in without too much trouble.

I'll have to report how the replaced parts do. The $150 price and 10 year warranty of TRQ CV shaft pair lured me in. Units seemed as heavy as stock and tight, will see how they hold up.

[Sterlingpiper83]

Blacklab, excellent writeup. This photo is especially outstanding (but they all are very good):





That Mopar is a Challenger? '68ish? 318, 340, gasp 426 or gasp 440? Discussion continued here.

I was going to say the same. Thanks for the fresh how-to Blacklab! My technique in the past has been similar. I’m always concerned about how much force gets applied to the face of the transmission case though. Granted, I’ve never punched a hole, thankfully.

I have a couple new tools that have been nice to use. If anyone is apprehensive, fearful or struggling with the drivers side (or rear CV axles), you can borrow my tools. I also have the special ball joint installer/tool, free to borrow as well. Just pay shipping both ways & return undamaged.

Steck Manufacturing axle popper 71410 (Amazon is about $50-55): https://steckmfg.com/product/71410_axle ... -shim-kit/

Volvo tool is part number 9995681. I did not purchase from the following link.
https://www.freedomracing.com/9995681-d ... -tool.html


2DD4A15A-E08D-420D-BF47-E76410912A63.jpeg

D7DD34C4-5BE5-4D9F-A0BE-E211B69D65CC.jpeg

974A6FC1-9E43-48E6-A73A-EC4529D6B9E9.jpeg

54C16029-EDB8-4740-8F7D-8B994AA91323.jpeg

Hi Pete I'm stuck on my girls S60, this half shaft is a pain, was just about to order this 9995681 tool but would absolutely love if I could borrow yours. The estimate for delivery is in 2+ weeks (not accounting for the backlog of orders due to the ransom outage the last couple weeks), how could we make this happen? [email protected] if you want to message me, thank you!