Complete electronics shut down

[imaV70Rdriver]

Problem Solved! Please go easy on me...

How embarrassing, all it needed was a new battery. My wife had the other car yesterday so I couldn't get a new battery until today. I bought a Duralast Platinum H6-AGM Group 48, for $259.44 from Autozone, and will get $22 back for the old battery. The tach and gas gauge immediately dropped to zero upon connecting the new battery, and my pride and joy 2004 V70R M66 started right up! What a relief. First thing I did was close the windows, after 2 weeks+ open.

Two weeks ago, when it died and then started again in the morning, then promptly died again, with nothing but the fuel pump and radio working, I thought the battery was good at 12.5v and it must be something else. In the morning, the tow truck driver put his electronic gadget on the terminal under the hood and didn't think it was a battery issue. The dealer had it a week, and said they charged the battery overnight and didn't think it was a battery issue either. Prior to sending the car to the dealer, I too charged the battery overnight, and it seemed steady at c.12.6_ volts, but there is (now) obviously something malfunctioning inside the battery. What a bizarrely simple solution. KISS

To everyone who spent time to comment and who exerted mental energy thinking about this problem, thank you so very much. I hope this simple solution rings loud the next time you experience, or hear about electronic issues in a Volvo, or any other car. I now know that a voltmeter/multimeter doesn't cut the mustard when it comes to determining battery condition. Maybe a load tester would have been more revealing, but I didn't have one.

The last thing I want to say is that if this had happened on the highway at a decent speed, it could have easily caused a huge wreck. I'm shocked that the dealer (and every Volvo dealer) is not aware that such a failure could occur from a low battery, and that Volvo could be allowed to sell a car that gave no warning sign of a dying battery when it could cause so many things to not function at the same time. No limp mode? How about just not starting at all, with a "low battery" indication of some sort, instead of starting and driving, just to then stop dead without warning. It's truly bizarre to me. And how is this not well known?

Now I will need to check that the alternator is working properly. Thanks again everyone.

[Krons]

Now I will need to check that the alternator is working properly. Thanks again everyone.

I would suspect you have a bad alternator.
When driving I would think a bad battery should make little difference. Once started your alternator should provide all necessary electrical power and charge the battery.

I've had cars that alternators went bad while driving...typically got an electrical dummy light on the dash before (shortly after) the car died when the battery ran out of juice.

[firstv70volvo]

Problem Solved! Please go easy on me...

How embarrassing, all it needed was a new battery. My wife had the other car yesterday so I couldn't get a new battery until today. I bought a Duralast Platinum H6-AGM Group 48, for $259.44 from Autozone, and will get $22 back for the old battery. The tach and gas gauge immediately dropped to zero upon connecting the new battery, and my pride and joy 2004 V70R M66 started right up! What a relief. First thing I did was close the windows, after 2 weeks+ open.

Two weeks ago, when it died and then started again in the morning, then promptly died again, with nothing but the fuel pump and radio working, I thought the battery was good at 12.5v and it must be something else. In the morning, the tow truck driver put his electronic gadget on the terminal under the hood and didn't think it was a battery issue. The dealer had it a week, and said they charged the battery overnight and didn't think it was a battery issue either. Prior to sending the car to the dealer, I too charged the battery overnight, and it seemed steady at c.12.6_ volts, but there is (now) obviously something malfunctioning inside the battery. What a bizarrely simple solution. KISS

To everyone who spent time to comment and who exerted mental energy thinking about this problem, thank you so very much. I hope this simple solution rings loud the next time you experience, or hear about electronic issues in a Volvo, or any other car. I now know that a voltmeter/multimeter doesn't cut the mustard when it comes to determining battery condition. Maybe a load tester would have been more revealing, but I didn't have one.

The last thing I want to say is that if this had happened on the highway at a decent speed, it could have easily caused a huge wreck. I'm shocked that the dealer (and every Volvo dealer) is not aware that such a failure could occur from a low battery, and that Volvo could be allowed to sell a car that gave no warning sign of a dying battery when it could cause so many things to not function at the same time. No limp mode? How about just not starting at all, with a "low battery" indication of some sort, instead of starting and driving, just to then stop dead without warning. It's truly bizarre to me. And how is this not well known?

Now I will need to check that the alternator is working properly. Thanks again everyone.

This is easy to use and handy to have in the car, you can monitor the battery voltage and alternator charging voltage easily...

https://www.zoro.com/innova-cigarette-l ... 20Products

[imaV70Rdriver]

With the new battery fully charged, VIDA in real time gives 14.3v at idle with just the bixenon lights on. It drops to a steady 13.6v (at idle) with as many accessories on as I can think of. Battery read 12.75v before starting.
I bought a Schumacher Electric 100 Amp Capacity Battery Load Tester (it's in the mail) and will check regularly for the foreseeable future.

[firstv70volvo]

With the new battery fully charged, VIDA in real time gives 14.3v at idle with just the bixenon lights on. It drops to a steady 13.6v (at idle) with as many accessories on as I can think of. Battery read 12.75v before starting.
I bought a Schumacher Electric 100 Amp Capacity Battery Load Tester (it's in the mail) and will check regularly for the foreseeable future.

From those readings looks like you have a good battery and the alternator is working fine. Any more problems with the electricals, missing power?

[abscate]

Once started your alternator should provide all necessary electrical power and charge the battery.

This was true for your Grandfathers Oldsmobile and is no longer true today.

Electronic era cars from late 1990s on need everything in good shape in the primary power circuit including a good battery

[Krons]

Once started your alternator should provide all necessary electrical power and charge the battery.

This was true for your Grandfathers Oldsmobile and is no longer true today.

Electronic era cars from late 1990s on need everything in good shape in the primary power circuit including a good battery

Good point, my statement as written wasn't 100% correct.

Flashbacks to the mid-80s Delta 88...ohy those were not the high point for GM.

[imaV70Rdriver]

Update: Everything seems to be working properly. It has started with no issues every time since fully charging the battery. There was (previously) an issue that I thought was unrelated to the battery, but now I think it was related. I would encounter on a fairly regular basis, when I turned the key to start the car, no click/no crank. I thought it was an issue with the clutch position sensor, not starting because I hadn't pressed the clutch down far enough, and I would try again and again, and eventually it would start. Now I think this was the "low battery" warning sign I ignored. Keep twisting the key and finally shake off only enough dendrites to start, but still a poor condition battery.
And Krons, I learned to drive in a 1978 Olds 98, with a 403, black w/beige velour. My friends called it "the limo" and it was a lot of fun sliding around in the snow, and plush to say the least. Thanks again to all for your comments. With fingers crossed, I hope to learn to trust my V70R again. It's great when it works properly.

[imaV70Rdriver]

It's now been about two years since my last post on this subject, and I have a brief update. I DO believe I had a bad battery, and replacing it solved SOME electronic problems, but not all. Something else was going on.

The intermittent "no crank, no start" issue had left me stranded numerous times, but I think I finally found the trouble. Seems like it has been the "antenna ring" all along. I bought:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 90-8621509
and have no start issues since installing.
In short, if you have numerous electronic gremlins, first make sure you have a good battery, and before replacing the starter motor, replace the antenna ring (it's cheaper and much easier to swap out). My two cents.

[imaV70Rdriver]

It happened again, complete electronics shut down. This time leaving my (unimpressed) wife stranded in traffic. I believe it’s the battery again. Should a $250 battery last more than 2.5 years, or is that par for the course?

Attached are a few photos showing two different readings, one at the battery location in the trunk (same readings with the negative connected, and disconnected; where it says that the battery is good but needs charging). The other reading was from the +ve connection near the fuse box under the hood (where it says to replace the battery).

Can anyone please explain why there would be a difference between them?