Remove/replace the condenser in 2.4 non turbo

[iamhives]

Need to replace the AC condenser on my 2006 V70 2.4 non turbo. It got hit by what looks like it was a good sized rock and judging by the rusty stain it looks like all of the freon/oil drained out. The compressor certainly no longer kicks on.

I've seen lots of instructions on replacing the radiator for the turbo engines but can't find one for the condenser only for a non turbo. I have the Mahle ac condenser which comes complete with the drier and bought new o-rings.

In the turbo cars, due to the intercooler it seems that the condenser/intercooler/radiator sandwich is typically removed as a unit. I'm hoping to be able the remove the condenser by itself. My main question is what do I need to remove to get the condenser out?

I'm planning on finding a shop to pull a vacuum and recharge. Do they add the PAG oil or should I before installing the condensor?

[cn90]

1- I posted the anatomy for car with Turbo in the thread below.
For non-turbo, it is simpler, just ignore the part with Turbo Cooler.
The problem with P2 cars is that: the condenser is installed together with the rad, and therefore does not come out from the front like in many other cars.

- Trick: do not use the petcock for coolant drain, disconnect the lower rad hose, it is much easier that way.

P2 V70 R radiator r/r 31319056, parts review (thread started by @abscate)
viewtopic.php?t=88976

2- Re vacuum and recharge R134a, you can do it yourself.
I replaced my 1998 BMW 528i AC compressor a few yrs ago and wrote all the detail below,
from vacuuming the system to how to add R134a.
Trick: do it on a dry day, not on a rainy day, this way there is not moisture in the air to worry about.

DIY: 1998 BMW 528i 160K Replacing AC Compressor
https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/diy- ... or.924320/

[iamhives]

Thanks for the reply.

Regarding recharging - your post has almost convinced me I can recharge myself. I know the system is completely empty of freon (there's a huge hole in the condensor!) so think I can skip the evacuation step (unless someone tells me otherwise) and am now thinking of using the Advanced Auto loaner/rental vacuum pump and gauges. My plan: 1) Hold vacuum (1/2hr?), 2) add 3 oz PAG oil from a can via the low pressure port (I'm only changing the condenser so the compressor should still contain oil and I think the full oil capavity is 180ml - 6oz) 3) Add 3 cans of R134a via the LP port (as far as I can tell the freon capacity is 1000 grams = 2.2lb = 35oz). One question on this. Since the system is empty, the compressor won't run due to the pressure switch. How do I add the freon until enough is added to allow the compressor to run? Will the cans have enough pressure? I saw someone say turn the compressor by hand??

Regarding the condensor repalcement. I did find those instructions you linked to. As I said these and others out there are for the turbo and most instructions I find focus on the radiator replacement. I found a general description somewhere and a post on here said the condensor in a non turbo can be removed from below without removing the radiator (removing bumper and upper radiator 'bracket' between teh headlights) and that is what I was hoping to do if possible but can't find anything more specific than these general statements.

[cn90]

When it comes to condenser, brand matters.

If your budget allows, stick to Volvo, however Volvo condenser costs some > $500.

Mahle-Behr (made in S. Korea) is an alternative. Read reviews.

Whatever you do, use Volvo Genuine O-rings etc.

Vacuum for 30 min, it is fine, when you do it on a dry day, there is not much moisture in the air.

Recharging: look up capacity, usually 2 cans...Just hold the can in your hand or warm water, the R134a will evaporate quickly.

[abscate]

After you pull vacuum the first half can of Freon goes …..wooosh …into the system. That is enough to trigger the low side switch and turn on the compressor

Capacity will be ona sticker under hood.

Slightly undercharge in hot climates.

Slightly overcharge in cold climates

Slightly is if the order of 10% total charge

[firstv70volvo]

Thanks for the reply.

Regarding recharging - your post has almost convinced me I can recharge myself. I know the system is completely empty of freon (there's a huge hole in the condensor!) so think I can skip the evacuation step (unless someone tells me otherwise) and am now thinking of using the Advanced Auto loaner/rental vacuum pump and gauges. My plan: 1) Hold vacuum (1/2hr?), 2) add 3 oz PAG oil from a can via the low pressure port (I'm only changing the condenser so the compressor should still contain oil and I think the full oil capavity is 180ml - 6oz) 3) Add 3 cans of R134a via the LP port (as far as I can tell the freon capacity is 1000 grams = 2.2lb = 35oz). One question on this. Since the system is empty, the compressor won't run due to the pressure switch. How do I add the freon until enough is added to allow the compressor to run? Will the cans have enough pressure? I saw someone say turn the compressor by hand??

Regarding the condensor repalcement. I did find those instructions you linked to. As I said these and others out there are for the turbo and most instructions I find focus on the radiator replacement. I found a general description somewhere and a post on here said the condensor in a non turbo can be removed from below without removing the radiator (removing bumper and upper radiator 'bracket' between teh headlights) and that is what I was hoping to do if possible but can't find anything more specific than these general statements.

You should also replace the receiver/drier because the system has been exposed to air for a length of time. There's a desiccant bag inside the receiver/drier that can only absorb so much moisture so it should be replaced. See the pdf for removal and replacement photos and notes, there might be some differences for a NA car. Some condensers are sold with the reciver/drier already attached.

2001 Volvo V70 AC compressor receiver drier expansion valve replacement.pdf

(9.77 MiB) Downloaded 238 times

If you haven't recharged a system before here are some general tips.
Never open the high-side gauge when the A/C system is under pressure, which is while the car/compressor is running and for a time after being shut off. The only time the high side should be open to the center hose is when vacuuming the system.
After connecting the refrigerant cans to the center hose be sure to bleed the air out of the hose at the gauge connection and do this each time a new can is connected. Always close off low side gauge when connecting the refrigerant cans.

Regarding adding new oil to the system, if you're pouring in the PAG oil from a can add it to the condenser or receiver/drier rather than the low side inlet, you don't want the compressor sucking in too much oil at one time. You can also purchase refrigerant cans with 1 oz of oil included.