06 v70 2.5t p0017 error code, camshaft timing fix?

Psychotrashcan · Post by **Psychotrashcan** » 05 May 2022, 14:15

Hey everyone, I'm hoping I could get some insight here.

I am trying to fix the timing on my car and it's sort of stumping me. I don't have much experience with cam systems and my father in law is mostly old school single cam system knowledge. So he's not 100% sure either.

The previous owner of this car replaced the exhaust cam seal (closest to firewall) and apparently didn't get the timing right. According to him the car ran fine so he never adjusted it and just assumed it was barely out of tolerance and just dealt with having a CEL on.

So now I'm trying to get the light off. I have placed pictures here to show that I set the crank at TDC against the marking. Kinda hard to see I know.

On the cam sprockets I marked with white where I'm currently at sitting TDC and where the timing marks are on the sprockets. And it seems absurdly far. 2-3 teeth away from where they should be. My brain is telling me the car should run horribly being this far off, if at all. So this part is throwing me off from what I need to do. Will this much distance really barely affect the driving? I can drive the car how it is and be perfectly fine for the most part. It idles a tad rough (barely noticeable) and it sometimes sputters a bit at high rpm.

Still my brain is saying it's not off as much as it's showing and if I "go back" on it to the timing marks it's really going to mess it up lol. Is this normal? Even being 2-3 teeth off only have a slightly negative effect on it?

Also, the exhaust sprocket is off by about a full tooth more. In attempting to move it CCW (after removing the belt by releasing tension on the tensioner), I could not get the timing mark all the way back. It only moves about 1 1/2teeth back before I can no longer turn it by hand. I don't wanna take a tool to it prematurely but I also have a weird fear of turning it CW a full 360 to get it to line up as well.

Any guidance here would be appreciated.

Post by **jonesg** » 05 May 2022, 19:13

its still filthy , PO didn't clean it up, I would go back in there and replace everything, belt, tensioner, idler.
It will probably require removing the cam hubs again to re set them, need the cam shaft locking tool.

Psychotrashcan · Post by **Psychotrashcan** » 05 May 2022, 19:29

jonesg wrote: ↑05 May 2022, 19:13 It will probably require removing the cam hubs again to re set them, need the cam shaft locking tool.

Did he set them in wrong? Are they not keyed? If I remove the hubs, is there a diagram that will show me where the cams need to sit when I put the hubs back on? Or does the cam lock tool keep them at TDC? I don't mind replacing the pulleys, it probably needs it considering how nasty it is in there. Apparently he was in a rush to get the car going again because he needed it for work so he only replaced the belt and cam seal. Didn't clean up the mess. He did give me a water pump that he didn't put on due to the time constraints (he said he got done at 10pm and had to be up at 4 for work). It's a carquest model so I'm not exactly sure on reliability. Haven't looked it up yet since it's in the trunk at my in laws garage.

Is there no way to reset the cams to correct position without removing the hubs? I would really rather not have to throw down for the cam tool since I plan on selling the car for a down payment on a new vehicle. Obviously having a CEL will make it far harder to sell.

If he did seat the hubs correctly, can they be that far off and the car have very little noticeable issue? Or is this a clear case of the hubs being sat wrong?

Thanks!

Edit: I should note he only replaced the cam seal nearest the firewall (exhaust I think?). I just got off the phone with him and asked if he used a locking tool. He said he did but it broke. He got it to work but he threw it out. Called it Chineseium junk lol. He said "If I seated it wrong, it's not by much. The other hub stayed still the entire time so I lined up the hub I took off with the one that was still on. I may have been off by a notch or two".

So I guess that answers my question about them not being keyed?

Post by **abscate** » 06 May 2022, 02:49

You need set these marks ( which are not TDC marks) by rotating the crank past the marks by 90 degrees , then turning the crankshaft backwards to return the crank mark to alignment.

After this , take a picture of both intake and exhaust cam and see where they are relative to the notches on the cover. Use a straightedge to mark them so we don’t have a parallax problem inthe photo

Still my brain is saying it's not off as much as it's showing and if I "go back" on it to the timing marks it's really going to mess it up lol. Is this normal? Even being 2-3 teeth off only have a slightly negative effect on it?

These cars need to be within one tooth or else the ECU will shutoff cam adjustment, set the code, and run rough.

Don’t use that car quest part on the water pump. A water pump failure on a Volvo of this era wipes out the valve train. OE Volvo or Aisin brand only.

Put it up for sale with the code as reported and tell buyer it needs timing belt work. A Volvo enthusiast will know what s/he is in for here. If you aren’t using Volvo parts m they are going to throw all your parts away anyway and chisel $400 off the price

Psychotrashcan · Post by **Psychotrashcan** » 06 May 2022, 04:17

abscate wrote: ↑06 May 2022, 02:49 You need set these marks ( which are not TDC marks) by rotating the crank past the marks by 90 degrees , then turning the crankshaft backwards to return the crank mark to alignment.

After this , take a picture of both intake and exhaust cam and see where they are relative to the notches on the cover. Use a straightedge to mark them so we don’t have a parallax problem inthe photo

OK I will do that. I won't be able to get to it until Monday since I work Friday through Sunday.

Post by **cn90** » 06 May 2022, 05:01

- How many miles in that car?
My guess is that it is close to 200K.

- The TB is old and has cracks on it. The P.O. tried to nickel and dime it.

- Tons of DIYs in forum...
* Seals should be Corteco or Volvo. Replace both intake and exhaust.
* TB kit should be Conti or Volvo (~ $110)
* WP should be Aisin, use the green Volvo gasket ($55)

- After you fixed this problem, it may be a nice car to drive.

Psychotrashcan · Post by **Psychotrashcan** » 06 May 2022, 05:44

cn90 wrote: ↑06 May 2022, 05:01 - How many miles in that car?
My guess is that it is close to 200K.

- The TB is old and has cracks on it. The P.O. tried to nickel and dime it.

- Tons of DIYs in forum...
* Seals should be Corteco or Volvo. Replace both intake and exhaust.
* TB kit should be Conti or Volvo (~ $110)
* WP should be Aisin, use the green Volvo gasket ($55)

- After you fixed this problem, it may be a nice car to drive.

215k miles

The owner is a family friend of sorts. He owed me $1000, but with dealership they would only give him 500 as a trade in. He gave it to me to square the deal since he didn't need the car anymore. The TB is about a year old. I was at the house when it was done (though I was just hanging out so I wasn't involved). Could be a cheap TB though. I wouldn't put it past him since he didn't care about the car and it was just an A to B to him while he saved up for a new one.

Post by **cn90** » 06 May 2022, 06:47

Look carefully at the photos you posted, the TB , despite the fact that it is only 1 yr old, already showed frayed edges.
I'd replace with Conti kit.
Search forum for info.

PS: Re cam locking tool, search forum for good tool brand name (or make it yourself).
Bad tools usually crack, causing further problems...

Post by **vtl** » 06 May 2022, 12:13

Get DiCE+VIDA and check the camshafts angle adaptation. It will also help you setting the hubs to a very precise angle, under 1 degree, close to 0.

Psychotrashcan · Post by **Psychotrashcan** » 09 May 2022, 09:50

Ok I've got all marks lined up and it's still throwing code. Someone suggested it may take 25 miles of driving for the code to go away, for the cars computer to calibrate to the new timing? Completely unsure if this is true, but I can't figure out why the check engine light is still on otherwise. Still getting the p0017.

Car seems to be running fine as well.

Sorry about the pics, hard to take closeups with phone to get the notch and plastics setting. On the crank you can see the line on the harmonic balancer since I can't see the notches on the sprocket.