Help with powering S60 seat -- Not in a Car Topic is solved
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Re: Help with powering S60 seat -- Not in a Car
It’s simple Neil. 12v with one polarity moves the motor one way, and the other polarity runs the motor the other way. You will need a double pole switch to make that wotk
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
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kmvandewater
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- Year and Model: 2011 XC60
- Location: Greenwich, NY
Hi. My application is most similar to "upnatum". I'm installing '07 S60 seats in a '61 PV544. I have read and reread this thread and am comfortable with the theory behind the wiring mods; I just haven't done any circuit board soldering before. I'm studying up on that now.
My tangent to this thread is how to power and switch the heated seats. Any guidance or redirect to another thread will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
My tangent to this thread is how to power and switch the heated seats. Any guidance or redirect to another thread will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Kyle
1961 PV544
2011 XC60
1961 PV544
2011 XC60
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Hello Washington County! Albany here. Bring it down here sometime and we can hook you up!
There are a couple of threads on this. I’ll search. How much amperage does the PV544 have?
There are a couple of threads on this. I’ll search. How much amperage does the PV544 have?
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
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kmvandewater
- Posts: 4
- Joined: 8 April 2015
- Year and Model: 2011 XC60
- Location: Greenwich, NY
Hello Albany:
Thanks for the invite; hoping to be street legal this year. To answer your question, I just did a "Swedish Embassy" alternator kit conversion, so I should be good for about 60 amps. I got the passenger seat adjustments going and am starting on the driver seat now. Thanks again.
Thanks for the invite; hoping to be street legal this year. To answer your question, I just did a "Swedish Embassy" alternator kit conversion, so I should be good for about 60 amps. I got the passenger seat adjustments going and am starting on the driver seat now. Thanks again.
Kyle
1961 PV544
2011 XC60
1961 PV544
2011 XC60
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Street legal like license plates? Are we supposed to have those?

Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
I created an account just to add my own findings to this thread. Since some of data posted here did help me out I figured I'd give back.
For anyone that has a 2014-2017 (X)(S)60 seat and the circuit board for the controls looks like this: You can power the board either by giving power to the pins directly on the board or by using the connector shown below. The wires are red and black for positive and negative respectivly. Finally, you ONLY need to jump the normally open relay which is how the car prevents the seat from moving when the ignition is off. Here's where to place the jumper. I saw another post soldering a daisy chain between the motor pins, you don't have to do any of that. Now I just need to find out what the power plug maker is so I can cleanly attach a battery to the seat and have motorized controls on my desk chair.
For anyone that has a 2014-2017 (X)(S)60 seat and the circuit board for the controls looks like this: You can power the board either by giving power to the pins directly on the board or by using the connector shown below. The wires are red and black for positive and negative respectivly. Finally, you ONLY need to jump the normally open relay which is how the car prevents the seat from moving when the ignition is off. Here's where to place the jumper. I saw another post soldering a daisy chain between the motor pins, you don't have to do any of that. Now I just need to find out what the power plug maker is so I can cleanly attach a battery to the seat and have motorized controls on my desk chair.
Hi there, been perusing this thread on and off for a bit, but figured I'm not getting any further by myself (rather considering rolling my own electronics) so I'm throwing this out here just in case (and before I start soldering stuff on the board).
This circuit board is from the LH driver's seat of a Volvo S40 -04. Thing is, this one has the memory functions (apparently only usable via CANbus), so the board is quite different from the ones posted before.
Is there an easy "jumper" on this board? Nothing jumps (no pun intended) out from the print on the board. Like many others here, this isn't going in a car, so I only really want the seat motors working so the seat is adjustable.
As far as I can tell, this board seems to reverse polarity where pin 6 on the black connector is the common "ground" (for lack of a better word) or M– for the motors, and pins 2-5 is M+ for each motor (Fwd/Rev, Back, Up/Down, Length). Pin 1 is 12V and Pin 7 is GND.
The green connector carries signals(?) from the motors (hall sensors?) named HSS and HSG (one each per motor = 8 pins), and there is also CAN+ and CAN– here, likely causing the board to not power up since there is no signal to indicate ignition is on.
If there is any way of powering this board and getting the seat motors working it would be a million times more preferable than to start fiddling with other switches, relays and what not. Not to mention that the relays (likely) will prevent the motors, switches and relays from burning out from high current/temp when at the end positions.
So, what say you, Volvo seat experts?
Right, I'm going to quote myself really quick here...bornhall wrote: ↑10 Aug 2022, 06:33As far as I can tell, this board seems to reverse polarity where pin 6 on the black connector is the common "ground" (for lack of a better word) or M– for the motors, and pins 2-5 is M+ for each motor (Fwd/Rev, Back, Up/Down, Length). Pin 1 is 12V and Pin 7 is GND.
I believe the board takes care of this "logic", so that no two switches can be active at the same time. Seeing as the motors all seem to share one common power line (whether it is – or + polarity), reason says that trying to run one motor one way while running another the "other" way would cause a short...
Basically, I don't think it is possible to "daisy-chain" this board as was done on others earlier in this thread.
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