Front suspension

Post by **scot850** » 17 May 2022, 20:31

I have 2 sets of spring compressors and have used them but just don't like the designs we are offered here. I would like something that actually clamped the spring even loosely to prevent it slipping out of the compressor tool. Also you need long compressor tools as you have to compress Volvo springs a long way and then a very long way to actually swap a spring when removing the tension. I ended up using the 2 sets. One for the compress to remove and the second when I ran out of decompression of the spring tools before the springs had fully release tension.

It would be nice to have the fancy pneumatic machine with a safety cage but price and space it take up is not worth it.

I am like Br0dy519, I either take it to the dealer or the local repair shop to get them to do it with pro-equipment once I have the strut assembly out of the car.

Neil.

Post by **abscate** » 18 May 2022, 04:15

br0dy519 wrote: ↑17 May 2022, 20:10 I’m gonna be “that guy” and state a couple obvious things here. As a fellow novice mechanic, something like this I would easily pay my experience volvo indy mechanic $75 for an hour to do a thorough inspection and test drive and give me a bill of material of what I should replace. That way I won’t be $1000 and 9 hours labour deep and going the complete wrong direction unnecessarily replacing suspension components.

Spring compressors are deadly, especially in untrained hands. I myself would pay a shop to build the assembly or buy a quality pre-assembled set. There are nuances to these suspension jobs like which bolts should be replaced, torque to yield values, and countless other safety precautions. I never feel any lost pride of a result of contracting work out that I don’t feel I can complete safely.

The problem with this approach is…..your don’t have a guarantee that the tech working on your car is paying any more attention to those details than you. If we aren’t careful, scot850 will get started on some of the stuff that has been done to Volvos by bad techs.

Take …..your ….time….

Arrange alternate transport to work, pre schedule a job with help here and you can do a better job than most techs.

If only you were in Western Ontario, I could build up those struts for you in Buffalo !

I hate you guys and your labor rates, btw….

That’s your health care system and legal system paying off

Post by **br0dy519** » 18 May 2022, 05:32

Oh I’ve certainly read many accounts of struts being built incorrectly, missing washers etc. I would certainly print out the exploded parts diagram and bring it with to make certain they get it right.

And for labour rates, don’t get too excited. Dealer still charges $150 per hour!! If you’re ever near Detroit definitely drop me a line !!

Soldion · Post by **Soldion** » 19 May 2022, 17:10

erikv11 wrote: ↑15 May 2022, 16:43 Yes, you would need a spring compressor to go that route.

The Sachs quick-strut is a gamble because of the rest of the parts in the assembly. The strut is presumably fine but I don't know that I've seen anyone who has had them long enough to test that. May last only 20k may last 80k, gambles can pay off ...

I think i might take a gamble. To be honest if you only knew how much crap before the deer. Mainly stuff that wouldn't matter which car you are in, you probably going to die, and show how I was able to dodge. But the deer was aiming for me.
I'm probably gonna do some more research before I make that decision.

Post by **Krons** » 20 May 2022, 18:35

I went against the advice of the forum here and went with TRQ stuff for front suspension on my 2008 this winter. So far I'd say it is ok, way better than the worn out 140k struts, control arms, linkage. For my use I would do it again but with the right expectations.

I do have no name (Ruilaier) quick struts on my 2002 with 15,000 miles on them. They ride stiff as can be when it is cold out but again, way better than the creaky, wollowy originals they replaced at 168k.

It all depends on expectations. Keep in mind with alignment costs you are likely best to do lower control arms and ball joints at the same time to align once.

Post by **abscate** » 21 May 2022, 00:06

Labor is about 4 hours for these parts or so? Balance $100 repeat self -labour against the parts cost delta to make the decision that’s right for you. We do tend to be guys/gals who use top shelf parts here, no judging.

Post by **Krons** » 21 May 2022, 04:32

abscate wrote: ↑21 May 2022, 00:06 Labor is about 4 hours for these parts or so? Balance $100 repeat self -labour against the parts cost delta to make the decision that’s right for you. We do tend to be guys/gals who use top shelf parts here, no judging.

Four hours is about right. Plus the ~$100 for an alignment. So if your time is cheap and you get a lifetime alignment somewhere, it can pay off.

My main goal was to eliminate noises and "stop sign wobble" as I call it (control arms part of that equation). But if goal is to restore OEM ride quality on city streets you won't get it with the cheap stuff.

Soldion · Post by **Soldion** » 26 May 2022, 17:21

Krons wrote: ↑21 May 2022, 04:32
abscate wrote: ↑21 May 2022, 00:06 Labor is about 4 hours for these parts or so? Balance $100 repeat self -labour against the parts cost delta to make the decision that’s right for you. We do tend to be guys/gals who use top shelf parts here, no judging.
Four hours is about right. Plus the ~$100 for an alignment. So if your time is cheap and you get a lifetime alignment somewhere, it can pay off.

My main goal was to eliminate noises and "stop sign wobble" as I call it (control arms part of that equation). But if goal is to restore OEM ride quality on city streets you won't get it with the cheap stuff.

That my goal. I just don't want a really bad accident to happen or what not. I know it wont be OEM ride quality but yeah it needs fixed.

Front suspension

Re: Front suspension