engine oil

[June]

full synthetic 5w50 .
full synthetic 10w60

Seems awfully heavy to me. Those aren't oils I've ever seen in the US.

10w60 is used in BMW 7 with the big engine. My 04 S80 T6 runs best on 5W30. It looses mileage and pep with 10w30. I think thicker oil doesn't spray as freely through the cylinder oil jets. Just my theory. Also thinner oil flows faster removing heat from critical areas like bearings and the turbos. June

[MrAl]

full synthetic 5w50 .
full synthetic 10w60

Seems awfully heavy to me. Those aren't oils I've ever seen in the US.

10w60 is used in BMW 7 with the big engine. My 04 S80 T6 runs best on 5W30. It looses mileage and pep with 10w30. I think thicker oil doesn't spray as freely through the cylinder oil jets. Just my theory. Also thinner oil flows faster removing heat from critical areas like bearings and the turbos. June

Hi,

What about wear due to friction?

[June]

Seems awfully heavy to me. Those aren't oils I've ever seen in the US.

10w60 is used in BMW 7 with the big engine. My 04 S80 T6 runs best on 5W30. It looses mileage and pep with 10w30. I think thicker oil doesn't spray as freely through the cylinder oil jets. Just my theory. Also thinner oil flows faster removing heat from critical areas like bearings and the turbos. June

Hi,

I'm told most wear is on first start. So thick oil takes longer to flow causing more wear. Also if the engine relies on a pressure spray system to oil/cool cylinder walls like my 2004. Using thicker oil than Volvo recommends can't be good. I run the piss out of my Volvo and it is just fine. I do change it every 3K. Living in horrible city gridlock, idling sometimes for a couple hours at a time to keep the ac on, and my habit of stomping the accelerator to the floor, clean oil is a must. Redline Ester based 5W30 is superior to anything I've used. My engine is so quiet when it idles, it is silent with ac off standing at the front bumper. I tried several weights one day in my 98 V70 and found the car performance was best with 5W30. Dealership oil changes in Florida heat use 10W30 in summer for my car. It always is noticeably less mileage and slightly less power. June

What about wear due to friction?

[can]

10w60 is used in BMW 7 with the big engine. My 04 S80 T6 runs best on 5W30. It looses mileage and pep with 10w30. I think thicker oil doesn't spray as freely through the cylinder oil jets. Just my theory. Also thinner oil flows faster removing heat from critical areas like bearings and the turbos. June

Hi,

I'm told most wear is on first start. So thick oil takes longer to flow causing more wear. Also if the engine relies on a pressure spray system to oil/cool cylinder walls like my 2004. Using thicker oil than Volvo recommends can't be good. I run the piss out of my Volvo and it is just fine. I do change it every 3K. Living in horrible city gridlock, idling sometimes for a couple hours at a time to keep the ac on, and my habit of stomping the accelerator to the floor, clean oil is a must. Redline Ester based 5W30 is superior to anything I've used. My engine is so quiet when it idles, it is silent with ac off standing at the front bumper. I tried several weights one day in my 98 V70 and found the car performance was best with 5W30. Dealership oil changes in Florida heat use 10W30 in summer for my car. It always is noticeably less mileage and slightly less power. June

What about wear due to friction?

you are right.
i didn't think about the friction on first start up

[MrAl]

10w60 is used in BMW 7 with the big engine. My 04 S80 T6 runs best on 5W30. It looses mileage and pep with 10w30. I think thicker oil doesn't spray as freely through the cylinder oil jets. Just my theory. Also thinner oil flows faster removing heat from critical areas like bearings and the turbos. June

Hi,

I'm told most wear is on first start. So thick oil takes longer to flow causing more wear. Also if the engine relies on a pressure spray system to oil/cool cylinder walls like my 2004. Using thicker oil than Volvo recommends can't be good. I run the piss out of my Volvo and it is just fine. I do change it every 3K. Living in horrible city gridlock, idling sometimes for a couple hours at a time to keep the ac on, and my habit of stomping the accelerator to the floor, clean oil is a must. Redline Ester based 5W30 is superior to anything I've used. My engine is so quiet when it idles, it is silent with ac off standing at the front bumper. I tried several weights one day in my 98 V70 and found the car performance was best with 5W30. Dealership oil changes in Florida heat use 10W30 in summer for my car. It always is noticeably less mileage and slightly less power. June

What about wear due to friction?

Hello again,

Oh yeah heard about that cold starting wear issue and also not to rev the engine when it's cold, and to allow a warm up time before driving. I usually give my engine at least two minutes warm up time.

BTW when you reply i think sometimes you reply in the body of the quoted persons reply. I think you are supposed to reply at the very end of the quote so it appears right when viewed.

[abscate]

The cold start wear thing is a fiction. Oil pressure on startup hits 60 psi quickly, in a few seconds. Once oil pressure hits the bearings, the metal does not touch. Even on startup, the metal surfaces don’t touch from the film of oil left. That’s why when idled my T5 for 15-30 minutes earlier this year with no oil pressure, it isn’t trashed

A 2 minute warmup is a bit long but no harm done. My kids were all trained to start, check for lights off, set seat, seatbelt, mirrors. Then 360 check. Then reach for clutch or slush stick. Maybe 30 seconds total

[454cid]

Agreed, warming up a vehicle beyond oil pressure is not needed. The engine will warm up faster if driven moderately. Up north we let vehicles warm up longer, but that's for purposes of interior heat and helping to melt snow and ice while we're outside trying to brush and scrape it off.

[Sveedy]

My understanding was that you let the engine warm up so that all of the internals were about the same temperature. You want the rings, cylinder walls, valves etc all about the same before putting much stress on them.

[MrAl]

The cold start wear thing is a fiction. Oil pressure on startup hits 60 psi quickly, in a few seconds. Once oil pressure hits the bearings, the metal does not touch. Even on startup, the metal surfaces don’t touch from the film of oil left. That’s why when idled my T5 for 15-30 minutes earlier this year with no oil pressure, it isn’t trashed

A 2 minute warmup is a bit long but no harm done. My kids were all trained to start, check for lights off, set seat, seatbelt, mirrors. Then 360 check. Then reach for clutch or slush stick. Maybe 30 seconds total

Hi,

Oh that's interesting. I was using the "service" light to time the warm up because that comes on after 2 minutes after the service time has expired. It's off now though, i think because a while ago the battery went completely dead.

So you think it is just a matter of oil pressure?
You mean you ran your car with no oil pressure at all for 15 to 30 minutes? Wow that takes guts. I have to wonder though why you would want to do that.

In winter time i really like to warm it up so i dont have to ride in a very cold interior. Of course if i have to clear the windshield then i need the defroster and it works best with warm air.

[MrAl]

My understanding was that you let the engine warm up so that all of the internals were about the same temperature. You want the rings, cylinder walls, valves etc all about the same before putting much stress on them.

Hi,

Oh that's interesting too.

Where i come from when we think something about something physical is true or even false, we come up with a way to measure the process so we can make an informed judgement. This makes me think if there is some way we can measure the wear during different phases of driving. Highway, back roads, idling cold, idling hot, etc.
Wonder if there has been anything good published on this.