Negative battery cable repair or replacement

Post by **FireFox31** » 15 Aug 2022, 22:31

What's the current best method for repairing or replacing a negative battery cable?

Could we use make a cable with bob850's positive cable method? What gauges are the two negative wires? Can anyone provide manufacturer name and part numbers for premade wires with proper gauge, length, and ring connector size?

On my 2000 V70, the negative battery cable broke at the ring connector attached to the transmission. I cut back the insulation and the copper strands within are brittle, breaking, discolored, and covered in powdery corrosion. Is this copper healthy enough to attach a new ring terminal? Should I cut back further into the cable looking for better copper, or might that make it too tight? Is there a way to rehabilitate this copper?

Probably easier to just pay $111 for a new cable, part 9456161. Get it while it's still being made.

Post by **abscate** » 15 Aug 2022, 23:55

You can either clean that up with a sharp knife blade or cut back some more to clean copper.

Fittings can be bought from a local west marine store , you might need to use a metric conversion tool to take the SAE hole on the copper lug to the m6-8-10 stud on the transmission. That tool look like a drill bit in a drill.

Dipping that wire in Coke (tm) might help clean it up, as well as help contemplate how healthy the black liquid of death is for your teeth

454cid · Post by **454cid** » 16 Aug 2022, 07:49

If that new Volvo cable is indeed the real deal, I'd buy that.... I love the Volvo battery connectors. They're far better than the crappy cast lead normally used on top post batteries.

Are those battery connectors unique to Volvo, or can they be purchased to be installed wherever needed?

That original wire looks pretty bad. If you've got extra length, I'd cut it back more and attach a new ring terminal. If the wire ends up too short, I might consider splicing another length of wire onto the factory wire just to keep the factory battery connector.... so a heavy duty crimper would be needed along with a butt connector and ring terminal. I'd probably go with one of the hammer type crimpers. Then coat it with some dielectric grease and a length of heat shrink tubing.

Post by **BEJinFbk** » 16 Aug 2022, 22:59

It's also worth looking around at some of the
cable makers that sell online. There are a number
of businesses that cater to the marine, battery
bank and other high current DC markets that
do nothing but build high quality custom cables.

Post by **FireFox31** » 16 Aug 2022, 23:07

454cid wrote: ↑16 Aug 2022, 07:49 If that new Volvo cable is indeed the real deal, I'd buy that.... I love the Volvo battery connectors. They're far better than the crappy cast lead normally used on top post batteries.

I also love the Volvo battery connectors with their angled bolts for easy removal. bob850's terminals look good, but horizontal bolts might not allow a socket to fit for easy removal.

You raise an interesting question: What type of metal is used on the Volvo connectors and on others we might use (cast lead)? Is one type of metal or casting method best for battery connectors?

Crimping together new cables will require a quality, heavy gauge crimper. I'm considering a Thomas & Betts crimper to make engine grounding cables but these negative battery cables are a much thicker gauge. Hopefully the crimping dies are modular. I do have at least two negative cables and four grounding cables to make (and some spares), but the cost for the crimper is still imposing.

Post by **abscate** » 17 Aug 2022, 01:02

That’s why you go to the West Marine store ..

Anco makes high quality electrical fittings and lugs…

Order online for pick up and delivery to store….

…and they have a free to use crimper for us sailors to swage our running gear ( check with store here too)

Portsmouth and Seabrook have stores near you in the Granite State

454cid · Post by **454cid** » 17 Aug 2022, 12:41

FireFox31 wrote: ↑16 Aug 2022, 23:07 Crimping together new cables will require a quality, heavy gauge crimper.

Look into a hammer type crimper for the big stuff.... or if you have a local shop that would do it for you, like abscate suggested, that would be great too.

Post by **FireFox31** » 19 Aug 2022, 00:35

Volvo still sells the two ring terminals:
Small upper ring terminal (by headlight) - 976477 - $4 list
Large lower ring terminal (to transmission) - 3545417 - $8 list
They no longer sell the terminal for the battery post. It's on the parts diagram but no longer for sale.

It looks like the prices of wire and terminals will add up to a notable percentage of the $100 for a Volvo cable. Add in the time to research and assemble and I'm basically at the $100. And after all that, I won't have that nice angled bolt on the battery post terminal which I like so much.

Post by **abscate** » 19 Aug 2022, 04:49

I’m going to try rebuild Caitlin’s positive battery cable with a quick clamp , a ninety degree copper lug, and my swage tool for the connection. Stay tuned

I like these for about $10/pair

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Terminal ... 11961&th=1

Post by **MrAl** » 21 Aug 2022, 10:28

abscate wrote: ↑19 Aug 2022, 04:49 I’m going to try rebuild Caitlin’s positive battery cable with a quick clamp , a ninety degree copper lug, and my swage tool for the connection. Stay tuned

I like these for about $10/pair

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Terminal ... 11961&th=1

Hi,

This sounds interesting i hope you can show some pics too.
I did many of these in the past with my cars of the past. I also soldered some of them.
Cant remember all that i did though it was mostly very long ago on my older cars.
To solder though have to get the joint really really hot so the solder wicks into the strands of wire. It's not easy i used a torch with a soldering iron tip one time.
I've also soldered radiators but that was when they were still copper. Got years out of them after the fixes.

Hey is that a pic of you?
Which one is you?
Ha ha ha ha just kidding but couldnt resist that one