1999 s70 awd Kat fuel pump by hole, no wait, tank drop, no wait , axle drop

[scot850]

Is the 2nd bolt the smaller one? I can't find an obvious one in my stash. I was close but no cigar on the larger bolt! M12 x 1.75. That is the larger of the 2 bolt sizes. The front and rear bolts holding the sub-frame to the bottom of the car. Guessing from your info it is Volvo # 949793.

I would just remove the smaller one and not bother with it until you re-fit the sub-frame.

Quick edit. From the info you sent me I found a Volvo M10 x40mm bolt and it has a 1.5 thread.

Neil.

[abscate]

Well, rethinking this.

Pumped out 10pm gallons of gas yesterday but ran out of time to pull pump before travel

I have three things pushing me back to axle drop

1. my fill gaiter isn’t in the right place. Looking at the diagram the hose connecting it to the tank has to be correct in angle or else the gaiter won’t fit. I suspect mine needs rotating about 45 degrees. Clamps inaccessible without axle drop

B. The wiring harness for the pump is attached to top of tank, so if I don’t drop axle I have to cut and splice. That same time could be used for tank drop…..because

iii. With the exhaust, tank, driveshaft, and VC already out, im 90% done with axle drop already


HELP NEEDED

can some one find the pitch and size on the 949793 bolts for the back axle? I have they are 17mm head but need to order some long ones to use as an axle guide for a 30 cm drop

Here is a nice top view from Neil showing how the red harness is captive and doesn’t come out easily…

[scot850]

Strangely I can't find that picture in any of my picture galleries on my computer!

I do have many from the pre-cleaned state and new rear-subframe. I was amazed at how convoluted the wiring is back there. It really needs a full drop to access it all if you were trying to do it all correctly. I think the best way is as how you are suggesting as you are using a new pump which I think will need to be connected up anyway and won't have the harness? So cutting and joining the wires in a watertight connection of some sort is the way to go!

Neil.

[abscate]

You need the slack in the harness to bring the pump forward about 30mm to get it out!

Inside , the new pump just used spade connectors

[abscate]

Strangely I can't find that picture in any of my picture galleries on my computer!

I do have many from the pre-cleaned state and new rear-subframe. I was amazed at how convoluted the wiring is back there. It really needs a full drop to access it all if you were trying to do it all correctly. I think the best way is as how you are suggesting as you are using a new pump which I think will need to be connected up anyway and won't have the harness? So cutting and joining the wires in a watertight connection of some sort is the way to go!

Neil.

The two pictures are

powder coating 00X.jpg

on your computer, where X= 3,4

Thiscarisapitabutiloveit isn’t really a secure network password, you should change it

[scot850]

Darn, how did you figure that password out?

Neil.

[abscate]

Well , good , bad, and ugly

Ugly

I bought five pumps of eBay, all off brand GRJ235 replacements. Two worked. Three didn’t even spin

Bad

All that work to recover the harness in one piece , and it snapped off at the pump face connector.

The new pump grommet up top is about 0.5 mm oversize so some Dremel work is needed.

Good

Axle drop took 15 minutes this morning. Removed rear M12 and replace with 30 cm allthread from McMaster Carr as a guide

Front jack with wood raises fuel tank to level , rear jack under diff

Wood blocks under arms

Remove m10 and m12 bolts and lower front and back on 10 cm intervals until axle is on wood

Removed harness.

Loosened and payed with filler gaiter. About a 1/8 turn on filler neck moves it aft 15 cm at body, just what is needed.

[abscate]

Picture gallery

[abscate]

Changed title as I slide down the razor blade of labor into the salt water bath

Just forward of the evap canister is where the fuel pump harness is clamped to the other harnesses, necessitating axle drop or wire cutting for the fuel pump withdrawal.

Noodling. If one can remove the evap canister to the rear, maybe you can access that clamp and save that labor?

Also presented here, that pesky little fill pipe that has to be oriented just right so that the fuel filler gaiter correctly fits the body hole. About 12 degrees of rotation on the bottom will move the fill spout 15 cm so it has to be close. I will set up the gaiter , then lower the axle again to tighten the bottom clamp. Use a new stainless Norma of course, not a cheapie