2000 v70 xc propeller shaft carrier bearing replacement

[scot850]

I plan to return some stuff to PnP tomorrow and as it is the last day of 50% off I will see if any of the 3 AWD cars still have these plates. There is a 99 and 00 V70XC and a 99 S70 AWD in the other yard. As it is a holiday it may be a zoo so I will see.I will stash any if I get them for MVS'ers for the future.

Neil.

[Goupil]

I am in the same boat as the original author here. My V70 XC is a 1999.

I see that the three wisemen from the East participated in this discussion, abscate, Jimmy 57, and Ozark Lee….


E99C0318-78C5-42A4-9A8C-A86BF2D119B5.jpeg


Here is my shaft after cutting the old bearing off. Not crazy about how much damage I did to the shaft.

I put a MAP/Pro torch to it and then beat on the back of the U-joint yoke without success. How much heat should I use, where should I use it, and where should I apply force to separate the two halves?

I do know to make aligning marks before I pull the two halves apart. I have access to a TIG welder and a competent operator. Should I repair the cut I made in the shaft cutting the old bearing off before putting the new on on?

Thanks, take care, and stay safe,

Brian in rusty Minnesota

As I mentioned in the other thread, there is a chassis break in the part numbers for the support plate,

https://www.volvopartswebstore.com/prod ... 74483.html

...but they don't show it on the dealer page. I couldn't find one used for my '98 V70R, but Robert Spinner did find one later, you might check with him.
https://robertdiy.com/
Text usually works better than email, or call him.

I don't know of any mere Mortals who have rebuilt a shaft; given how rusty your u-joints are, my guess is getting it apart any further will be brutal.
As abscate suggested on the ancient thread, used might be a better option, but shipping wold be a challenge.

Never had to deal with P80 AWD, are the caps on the U joints welded from factory as seen on bcfisher picture ? Replaced them on a RWD volvo today and they all had C clips

[bcfischer]

I'm going to noodle around with trying to rebuild. The car is running OK as a FWD for now, which I understand to be a common modification.

When applying heat to the center U Joint area to try to release the splined joint, do I apply the heat on the U Joint knuckle or the end of the tapered section at the end of the shaft? In other words, where exactly are the splines?

I'd like to get the AWD back at some point, because I really like passing F-150s on icy inclines, If I find no joy with the rebuild I will send it off to Colorado Drave Shafts. It seems they now cover shipping out and back and the price is still well below the price new.

On the center cross member, I plan to drill and tap new mounting wholes in the floorboard standoff rails if it the one I have doesn't line up.

Take care and stay safe,

Brian

[foggydogg]

I'm going to noodle around with trying to rebuild. The car is running OK as a FWD for now, which I understand to be a common modification.

When applying heat to the center U Joint area to try to release the splined joint, do I apply the heat on the U Joint knuckle or the end of the tapered section at the end of the shaft? In other words, where exactly are the splines?

I'd like to get the AWD back at some point, because I really like passing F-150s on icy inclines, If I find no joy with the rebuild I will send it off to Colorado Drave Shafts. It seems they now cover shipping out and back and the price is still well below the price new.

On the center cross member, I plan to drill and tap new mounting wholes in the floorboard standoff rails if it the one I have doesn't line up.

Take care and stay safe,

Brian

The four belly pan bolts line up on both plates, and the stamping itself looks to be the same, but the two holes for the center bearing are the issue. My experiment was between a '98 V70R and a '00XC. A misalignment there will lead to the center joint being out of phase, and vibration will ensue - and probably shorten the life of the rubber bushing.
If you get too frisky with trying to get yours apart, it may ruin its value as a core.
Those folks will ship you one and you put yours back in the box and send it home, as I recall.

[bcfischer]

Thank you for your wise counsel, foggydogg.

Brian

[abscate]

I'm going to noodle around with trying to rebuild. The car is running OK as a FWD for now, which I understand to be a common modification.

When applying heat to the center U Joint area to try to release the splined joint, do I apply the heat on the U Joint knuckle or the end of the tapered section at the end of the shaft? In other words, where exactly are the splines?

I'd like to get the AWD back at some point, because I really like passing F-150s on icy inclines, If I find no joy with the rebuild I will send it off to Colorado Drave Shafts. It seems they now cover shipping out and back and the price is still well below the price new.

On the center cross member, I plan to drill and tap new mounting wholes in the floorboard standoff rails if it the one I have doesn't line up.

Take care and stay safe,

Brian

The four belly pan bolts line up on both plates, and the stamping itself looks to be the same, but the two holes for the center bearing are the issue. My experiment was between a '98 V70R and a '00XC. A misalignment there will lead to the center joint being out of phase, and vibration will ensue - and probably shorten the life of the rubber bushing.
If you get too frisky with trying to get yours apart, it may ruin its value as a core.
Those folks will ship you one and you put yours back in the box and send it home, as I recall.

If we could document this I’m sure one could drill new holes to adapt a cross brace to any shaft and bearing?

[bcfischer]

I was thinking the same thing. If mine (whether I repair it or have get a rebuild) doesn’t doesn’t line up exactly with the 9474483 cross member I got from Tasca, I will measure the difference with precision and document.

Brian