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oil filter wrenches and filter sockets

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
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454cid
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oil filter wrenches and filter sockets

Post by 454cid »

I changed my oil today. I had a Mahl OC204 on there which has the flats enabling the use of a cap style filter socket. When I installed it, I was using my uncle's garage, and used his socket. I don't have one the correct size here at home. I removed it with a strap wrench (made of seat belt material), as there isn't clearance for my metal band type wrench that I typically use on my truck.

When I re-installed a filter, I used one of the smaller diameter ChampXL synthetic filters that I bought (PH2835XL). I have a filter socket that will work on that filter.

I also have a Mann which I know many here prefer, and those don't have the flats for a filter socket. I can get a filter pretty tight by hand, although I usually turn them just a bit more with a wrench. I typically can't remove them by hand. How do you install/remove them?
1996 850
1999 S70 GLT (sold after deer hit)

2010 Ford Focus SE
2006 Cadillac CTS
1996 Mercedes C220
1999 Chevrolet K3500
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volvolugnut
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Post by volvolugnut »

After a few failures to remove filters without total destruction, I use a half turn from contact method after oiling the gasket. Most often this is about fully tight by hand. This method has never had a leak on any vehicle. I typically have to use the steel band clamp to loosen.
volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.

454cid
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Post by 454cid »

volvolugnut wrote: 24 Sep 2022, 18:39 I typically have to use the steel band clamp to loosen.
volvolugnut
Hmm, how are you getting clearance for that? I tried putting the band at an angle, but I didn't want to permanently bend the band. It seemed to me that the subframe/cradle was in the way, of the handle, but maybe I didn't spend enough time with it before getting my strap wrench.
1996 850
1999 S70 GLT (sold after deer hit)

2010 Ford Focus SE
2006 Cadillac CTS
1996 Mercedes C220
1999 Chevrolet K3500
1969 Buick LeSabre Custom 400

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MoVolvos
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Post by MoVolvos »

Blessings,

BKM


2008 C30 T5 2.0 M66
2007 S60 2.5T - New Project
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454cid
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Post by 454cid »

I had forgotten about the 3-legged type. I've never used that design. Do they grab the filter well, or do they tend to slip?

I've seen "pliers" made for filters but have never used them. I can see large Channel Locks working, and unlike the band type filter wrench would probably work at a downward angle. Very large Channel Locks are what I used when installing a new serpentine belt.... I should probably buy a pair even if I don't use them for filters.
1996 850
1999 S70 GLT (sold after deer hit)

2010 Ford Focus SE
2006 Cadillac CTS
1996 Mercedes C220
1999 Chevrolet K3500
1969 Buick LeSabre Custom 400

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MoVolvos
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Post by MoVolvos »

454cid wrote: 24 Sep 2022, 20:03
I had forgotten about the 3-legged type. I've never used that design. Do they grab the filter well, or do they tend to slip?

I've seen "pliers" made for filters but have never used them. I can see large Channel Locks working, and unlike the band type filter wrench would probably work at a downward angle. Very large Channel Locks are what I used when installing a new serpentine belt.... I should probably buy a pair even if I don't use them for filters.
.
The large pliers only need to budge the filter a little and the rest is easy. The 3-legged is hard to start up but wrapping a rubber band around it (just thought of that) will help the legs stay in contact with the filter. It will crush the filter thereby making it easier to remove if indeed the filter is stuck. The cap type is hit and miss in terms of quality. Some are not formed well or sized too large for the stated size. The pliers is my first choice when changing oil.

Forgot where I saw this yesterday but the filter is tightened 1 full turn after making contact then backed off just a little. Oh, a zip lock is part of the tools as it wraps around the filter, when possible to catch the oil. 03 Honda Odyssey.
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Zip Lock Oil Filter.jpg
Zip Lock Oil Filter.jpg (423.96 KiB) Viewed 1309 times
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Blessings,

BKM


2008 C30 T5 2.0 M66
2007 S60 2.5T - New Project
2003 S80 T6 Transmission DIED
2000 S70 SE Base - New Project
1998 S70 T5 Prior
1989 240 Wagon Prior

454cid
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Post by 454cid »

MoVolvos wrote: 24 Sep 2022, 21:07 The large pliers only need to budge the filter a little and the rest is easy. The 3-legged is hard to start up but wrapping a rubber band around it (just thought of that) will help the legs stay in contact with the filter. It will crush the filter thereby making it easier to remove if indeed the filter is stuck. The cap type is hit and miss in terms of quality. Some are not formed well or sized too large for the stated size. The pliers is my first choice when changing oil.
It sounds like I need to find the right size cap or maybe use the strap for the smooth Mann filter. I'm mostly concerned with finding a good solution for installation....for tightening just a bit more than hand tight. Today, I used a smaller filter, but later when I go back to the standard diameter, I'm not sure that I'll be able to grab tightly a hold of it given it's proximity to the pan sides.

I did have a plastic cap snap in half several years ago.
Forgot where I saw this yesterday but the filter is tightened 1 full turn after making contact then backed off just a little. Oh, a zip lock is part of the tools as it wraps around the filter, when possible to catch the oil. 03 Honda Odyssey.
I've heard of using a bag, also seen a cup demonstrated. I could try it, although I'm not crazy about having an oily bag.
1996 850
1999 S70 GLT (sold after deer hit)

2010 Ford Focus SE
2006 Cadillac CTS
1996 Mercedes C220
1999 Chevrolet K3500
1969 Buick LeSabre Custom 400

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Post by abscate »

h, a zip lock is part of the tools as it wraps around the filter, when possible to catch the oil. 03 Honda Odyssey.
Added to my toolbox of knowledge. Brilliant.
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Post by Sveedy »

Strap type to remove - hand tighten apx 3/4+ turns from point of contact. I can honestly say that after doing this for more than half a century
( damn that sounds long ) on many many cars & trucks, I have never had a leak. Except for that one time when I poured in 4 quarts of oil, but forgot to install the new filter. " Why are my feet wet and slippery ? "
Try to learn life's bad lessons vicariously through others.


1996 850 Turbo GLH ( Goes Like Hell )
1999 V70 GLT

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volvolugnut
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Post by volvolugnut »

454cid wrote: 24 Sep 2022, 19:16
volvolugnut wrote: 24 Sep 2022, 18:39 I typically have to use the steel band clamp to loosen.
volvolugnut
Hmm, how are you getting clearance for that? I tried putting the band at an angle, but I didn't want to permanently bend the band. It seemed to me that the subframe/cradle was in the way, of the handle, but maybe I didn't spend enough time with it before getting my strap wrench.
I don't have an 850, so these are general directions for oil filter install and removal. I have one cheap oil filter band wrench that has a swivel that allows the handle to pivot and avoid some objects.

volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.

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