03 V70 cam seal leak... for the third time??

[dj_v70]

I had a 2003 v70 that had really good pcv suction. Some of my symptoms were similar. It turns out that the suction was too good. there Is a diaphragm in the system that is known to rip. I recall someone telling me that too much vacuum was just as bad as not enough and gives similar symptoms. Is your vacuum really good? If not, do you pass glove test both at idle and at 2000 rpms.

[gks]

Now back from the shop that did the cam seals/TB/WP last month. In the meantime I have been seeing small oil spots on the ground, but oil level is still full at the dipstick (and PS fluid is leaking).

The mechanic said that the cam seals and T belt were fine, when the dealership had said that the TB was "covered in oil"—it clearly isn't, although I'm still concerned about possible oil contamination on the inside of the belt...

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He said that the new oil leak was coming from around the cam solenoid (reset valve), not the cam seals. Not a leak I've heard of before, and I'm curious if anyone has dealt with it.
He was certain that the cause was bad PCV pushing oil out ... even though it has always passed the glove test. I agreed to have him replace the PCV box ($700), although he was insistent at the start of the job that the oil pan should be dropped and cleaned to rehabilitate PCV properly. His price was double and I declined—money is tight.

It became clear that when the PCV was serviced under previous ownership 5 years/60k mi ago, the box itself was not replaced, although apparently the hoses were replaced and the oil pan was dropped and cleaned. The current mechanic didn't trust the past repairs, and that seemed to be part of why he wanted to drop the oil pan, but I am hoping that it did in fact get a good cleaning not too long ago and that I can expect the engine to breathe well for a good long while now. The mechanic showed a photo of the gunked-up oil pan to breather box port before cleaning. He was not optimistic that it will run long before the next oil leak appears...

Time will tell how long I can steer clear of oil leaks, but I will probably not be back to this shop—partly because of the inconvenience of having someone drive 1.5h round trip to pick me up/drop off, but mostly because the owner/mechanic seemed to want to talk me into big expensive jobs as opposed to really explaining or justifying them. I know not to expect good prices for service AND good bedside manner, but the whole experience doesn't sit right.

Was it a mistake not to have the oil pan cleaned up this time? From the process perspective, it seems fully separate from the PCV system service, like I could go back for it later (or even try it myself sometime!?) without wasted labour.

Are there any other angles to this oil leak situation I should be keeping in mind? From reading related threads here, it looks like I should be replacing the gasket in the oil filler cap.

And should I be worried about the longevity of the T belt, based on what the photo shows and what I'm hearing?

[abscate]

It’s common to have the oil pan port plugged in high mileage engines that didn’t get regular oil changes. It sounds like your mechanic got this one right. If s/he is good enough to know these cars that well, they probably have tons of work so no harm done having to return.

Solution to expensive repairs is DIY, of course.

[jonesg]

genuine volvo CVVT solenoid is $210 at FCP, 4 bolts and a plug.
$700? not likely.

[vtl]

genuine volvo CVVT solenoid is $210 at FCP, 4 bolts and a plug.
$700? not likely.

Hello? Two bolts and a timing belt cover? Those amateurs always underestimate...

[gks]

to clarify, I paid $700 for the PCV service—the solenoid was replaced about 5 years ago as I discuss above but was not replaced this time, just re-sealed

[gks]

My saga continues... After the new PCV/oil trap box installation, the engine continues to pass the glove test (yes, at higher RPMs as well), but the engine is now leaking oil more severely than before. I have no wisdom on the source of the leak but will have to take it in to a shop again. It does not seem to be leaking while parked, but is leaking while running and losing more oil than before.

Any ideas of what could possibly be causing serial oil leaks (first the cam seals, then the CVVT solenoid, now somewhere else) when the PCV is breathing well and shouldn't be pushing oil past the seals or pushing the seals out?? I'm at my wits' end and afraid of this car becoming a financial albatross... I have never worked on it myself but this is going to push me to start unscrewing covers and taking matters into my own hands(!)

[jonesg]

other common leaks are the oil filler cap gasket and the turbo drain pipe gasket.
The turbo drain can leak due to oil pressure regardless of PCV condition. $9 drain O ring and flat gasket.

Its the reason why we are here , for DIY knowledge, we don't spend much time comparing shop prices because we avoid it by sharing knowledge and encouragement. One thing I've learned is the decent mechanics are worth every penny they charge. I just can't afford them or I'd never crawl under my car again.

You can probably buy all the tools you need , plus jackstands and a HF speed jack for less than these repairs. $500 is a good start.

My exh is leaking, the flex pipe section needs replacing, $1600 to the mechanic or .... I bought a $400 mig welder instead and have been teaching myself to weld on scrap pipe scavenged from the local garages dumpster. The new flex section is only $36, even buying the tools needed for the job I'm still way ahead.

My car is 20 years old, anything can and does fail on it.
I just ordered a milwaukee 12v stubby impact wrench, 250 ft lbs, along with their 12v ratchet wrench with batteries for $350, theres nothing wrong with the car that I needed them but I never regret money spent on good tools. The rest of my hand tools I buy cheap at harbor freight or amazon, socket sets etc.

[gks]

I inspected the oil filler cap gasket—it has never been replaced to my knowledge, but it looks good. I will replace it just in case!
No turbo on this one so I'm assuming that the drain pipe issue is not relevant.

I'm trying to get as far as I can figuring things out and testing them myself, even if I need to pay to get the service done—as I said above, I'm a bicycle mechanic, so I have some basic know-how and hand tools, but have never worked with engines and this is my first car. So I'm easing into it, but can't take on big DIY jobs at this point. I'll get there once I have space to work and get set up with some tools... if the car lasts me that long! Thanks for your help :~)

[vtl]

VVT hub leaks oil at the end of its life.

Camshaft seal grinds a groove in the camshaft, so it starts leaking oil. New seal must be installed at a slightly different depth.

Lower section of the cylinder block may stretch its threads, so the block starts to leak oil at the halves between lower and upper sections.

Oil sump can start leaking oil at the gasket.

Volvo used anaerobic gasket maker all throughout the engine, it ages and commonly starts leaking.

Oil pump can start leaking, though very rarely.

You need to locate where the oil is coming from. Look for the highest greasy point. Make photos and post here.