Probably doing a first start tomorrow. Hope it works. (Cracked cylinder head) Topic is solved

[dikidera]

I'll be pulling it again in a few days. Might start with peripheral removal today, but actual head removal will happen tomorrow or the day after, depending.

The cam cover was and is still fine, in fact I also wondered how the head can crack BEFORE the cam cover which is definitely thinner. But one little detail is, that while I was using the cam cover compressor, the right side of the cover(4th and 5th cylinder) had fully sealed before the left side near the gears, and I made sure to do each turn equally on both sides.

The head was torqued using a torque wrench following the the little pamphlet supplied with the head gasket, which said 30nm first on all bolts, then 60 then 120 degrees which is what I did following the bolt pattern on the instructions.

[dikidera]

It's getting very unpredictable what happened. The exhaust ports all have oil in them the antifreeze got mixed with oil.

Still either cracked head or warped block(yes they do warp in Europe because the cars are often run on LPG/CNG and in very hot climates, like 40c+ ambient temps)

[abscate]

The head was torqued using a torque wrench following the the little pamphlet supplied with the head gasket, which said 30nm first on all bolts, then 60 then 120 degrees which is what I did following the bolt pattern on the instructions.

That’s not right. It’s a three stage 20 Nm 60 Nm then 130 degree angle, working ftom inside out is important too, both loosening and tightening

Jimmy57 recommends two uses from cylinder head bolts, then use new. Rein bolts are fine in my experience, $2-3 each

[dikidera]

The head was torqued using a torque wrench following the the little pamphlet supplied with the head gasket, which said 30nm first on all bolts, then 60 then 120 degrees which is what I did following the bolt pattern on the instructions.

That’s not right. It’s a three stage 20 Nm 60 Nm then 130 degree angle, working ftom inside out is important too, both loosening and tightening

Jimmy57 recommends two uses from cylinder head bolts, then use new. Rein bolts are fine in my experience, $2-3 each

What isn't right is my fuzzy memory as I threw the pamphlet away, but it is as you said, 20nm first, from inside out, then 60 then 120 degrees. My memory is out of whack these past few days due to the stress.

Once I get the head tested for cracks I will know what will follow. If the head had cracked, I wouldn't get oil in ALL the exhaust ports and in coolant. The only other culprit is a warped block which is what I was most afraid of. Because at that point I would rather buy a used engine and replace it one go, unfortunately I have neither the hoist nor the space to do it, I mean, I have to take out the automatic gearbox first. So it would then appear I have wasted my time and money to do all the procedures I did thus far.

[abscate]

I really doubt the block is warped. There are only two oil passages in the top cylinder head to feed the valve train and cam bearings so the crack should be easy to find. I’ve got two reworked cylinder heads sitting in my shop right now, waiting for my Devils tinsnips

[dikidera]

Well, a shop said it's unlikely the head is cracked and refused to test it, cause it would be a money waste they said. They also said the cam cover would crack first.

Anyway, I had given the head to a friend, who...has nicked the head cam bearings and I am unsure how problematic that will be. Just my luck really.

As for the original problem...I think I found the problem. But...now I need a new head gasket, new bolts, new oil, new coolant. And a way to fix the cam bearing on the head.

[vtl]

As for the original problem...I think I found the problem. But...now I need a new head gasket, new bolts, new oil, new coolant. And a way to fix the cam bearing on the head.

Make a picture and post here.

[vtl]

In case you don't know it, the head bolts must be oiled (no dripping oil though) prior installation or you loose about 1/3 of torque. Even better use a special torque lube.

thumbnail-993787022.jpeg (113.75 KiB) Viewed 406 times

[vtl]

Show us a high detailed pictures of your block, focusing on thermal gaps between the cylinders. There can be cracks in sleeve or sleeve separation.

[abscate]

Anyway, I had given the head to a friend, who...has nicked the head cam bearings

Wait - what engine family are we on here? I thought P2s ran in machine matched cam surfaces for both axial and thrust play - no bearings at all.