1998 V70 AWD 33 Step Timing Belt Replacement with Photos

[songzunhuang]

Thanks for an excellent post. I thought I would add a few pictures to the thread.
First is the timing marks. I was all worried that mine would be hard to find, but as it turns out it was super easy. In fact it appears that my timing belt must have been serviced before (although I don't recall).

Here's my timing marks. Not only are the factory marks clear at 1 o'clock (left) and 11 o'clock (right), but it looks like someone painted the white marks on the cover and the cam gears.

Down below on the crank, I had two very clear keys as well. First the crank pulley mark lines up with the belt when the upper marks are aligned.

Then if you look in the engine block, you can see the cast arrow that points to the valley between the two notched teeth on the gear itself. Mine was pretty clear so I grabbed this snapshot to share.

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The timing belt cover was a bit of a pain for me. Some threads says that you can only get to the bolts by feel. I jacked the car up and found them pretty easy to locate, although the lower bolt gave me fits.

Belt Guard Bolts.png (454.11 KiB) Viewed 1277 times

Finally, there's the water pump. I read all kinds of tricks of getting the gasket to stick in pace with some sealant when re-installing the pump. Mine was much easier than that. There's 2 locator pins on the engine block. I just used these to hang the new gasket then placed the pump on top of it. It was really simple.

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Anyhow. I hope these help some folks out.

[regent]

Awesome pictures, thanks a lot!

I use some hand-made plastic sharp tool to scrape the old water pump gasket residue from the mating surface on the block and just a trace amount of grease on the new gasket. The locating dowels will help the gasket stay put, and the lubricant helps it seat better. Just take my time and torque the seven mounting screws gently and slowly (in two or three increments). I also check the final torque once again just before tensioning the new belt, and then re-fill with new coolant. Never had a leak.

[dwillburn]

MANY THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO MAKE THE STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTION - TRUELY HELPFUL!!

[Eddystone]

I haven't read ALL of the comments, but I thought I would mention that the '98 engine in this article did not have variable exhaust valve timing. My understanding is that '99 and later do have this feature, and THAT means at least one sprocket will be SPRING-LOADED. You will be very sorry if you attempt to do one of these later engines without the tool to lock the camshaft sprockets (IPD sells an inexpensive one). How do I know? I did a 2000 S40 without such a tool under time pressure and only a long life of clean livin' got me out of there alive.

[abscate]

You don't need the cam lock tool to do a timing belt on a CVVT car - only to remove a cam sprocket.

You do need to understand how to set the moveable sprocket up correctly - which isnt difficult.

[Hellhoff]

ATTENTION: Water pump torque values in information MAY be incorrect. I followed this instruction to the letter torquing the water pump bolts up to 20Nm when the threads in my engine block gave way. Supposedly the value is 17Nm and the aluminum block is very sensitive. Please verify and correct information in original post to avoid anyone else ending up where I am at now!

[bmdubya1198]

I also highly recommend an in.-lb. torque wrench (1/4" drive) to torque small fasteners like this.