No compression on 1 - burnt valve? Topic is solved

[songzunhuang]

You can do this yourself. You will need to buy a valve spring compressor. You can find one on Amazon for about $50. Make sure the diameter of the collar that goes on the spring side is small enough to fit down into the hole in the head where the valve spring lives.

Once the head is on the bench it's pretty straightforward. Put the head on it's side and compress the spring. The throw on the compressor tool is adjustable. You want it set to compress the valve spring enough to use a pick to separate the split valve keeper and it will fall out. If you don't get enough travel they won't fall out. Too much travel and you will bottom the spring making it impossible to lock the compressor closed. After the two halves of the keeper fall out just release the spring compressor and the valve retainer and spring will come out in your hand. then push on the valve stem while pulling from the other side on the head of the valve. If it sticks just rotate it back and forth while pulling.
After removing the suspect valves. you will be able to see the hole in the edge of the bad ones if you have no compression at all.

Going to look through my past posts because I think I did a write up on this job. Will post more soon.


Tried to delete this after I realized there were 5 pages on this thread and I was too late. Oh well...

Haha, it's all good. Now we have all the required info in one thread. Thanks for sharing.
I had to send the head and cam cover off for cleaning anyway, so I just let the shop do the work. I bet I could have done it, but then I wouldn't have the stuff to pressure test before reinstalling. It all worked out in the end.

[dikidera]

I went through the same thing, but with far more hiccups. I have the combined Catalytic convert/Exhaust Manifold, it's a chonky piece and couldn't fit behind the now installed head. Obviously I should've have put it in BEFORE the cylinder head. I then had to remove the driveshaft to get it from down under.

My application of the Victor Reinz sealant was not as smooth as yours, I had to use my fingers.

I also installed the exhaust cam 180 degrees out of phase with the intake one. Very easy to miss this.

You may use the cam cover tool, but even with equal amounts of turns, the right side will close before the left side, very easy to crack the cam cover like that.

[songzunhuang]

I went through the same thing, but with far more hiccups. I have the combined Catalytic convert/Exhaust Manifold, it's a chonky piece and couldn't fit behind the now installed head. Obviously I should've have put it in BEFORE the cylinder head. I then had to remove the driveshaft to get it from down under.

My application of the Victor Reinz sealant was not as smooth as yours, I had to use my fingers.

I also installed the exhaust cam 180 degrees out of phase with the intake one. Very easy to miss this.

You may use the cam cover tool, but even with equal amounts of turns, the right side will close before the left side, very easy to crack the cam cover like that.

Oh that sounds painful.

The sealant application was with a foam roller. That worked really well. I put it on heavy at first and had to thin it out and clean up some passages with a toothpick before I actually installed it.

Roller for sealant made it easy.

Sealant Roller.png (1.19 MiB) Viewed 560 times

As for the cams, I did the trick of using stiff cardboard and zip ties to keep them in position when removed. Putting them back was pretty simple as a result. Here's the picture just before install and with smears of "assembly lube" on the lobes.

Cam positions secured by cardboard and zip ties.

Cams Secured.png (1.5 MiB) Viewed 560 times

Just to double check myself, I also marked the crank position with white paint relative to the engine mount in the picture below. The timing marks are hard to see when everything is installed. The white paint made it really easy.

Clear positioning of marks on crank.

TIming marks on crank.png (1.16 MiB) Viewed 560 times

Anyway, including these little "tips" for anyone else who may try this.

[dikidera]

Well congratulations. I was not as lucky. Something died in my case.

And it was the cylinder head. See it's very easy to get the camshafts wrong and torque them down like that. I cracked the head by doing this. So anyone reading this, the tools won't save you, but good lighting and paying attention will.

[songzunhuang]

Well, it's been a while since this rebuild and I have just completed a long weekend trip up to lake Tahoe. All together is was about 600 miles and over 10 hours of driving. I encountered all kinds of terrain from flat concrete to mountainous roads. The Red Brick performed like a champ. We used it to haul around a full load of 5 people and dogs to various hiking trails and it didn't skip a beat. Even on the way back when it was between 102-104 degrees for hours, the engine ran fine and was cool. So is it perfect? There's just one tiny thing...

I discovered that I am losing a bit of coolant. After a tank or so of gas, I have to top off with about a cup of coolant. I'm going to have to keep an eye on this and see what's up. There isn't an obvious leak and there's nothing on the ground under the car after being parked.

Still, I am happy with the performance of the engine. I also clocked an average of 29 mpg during the trip. I've never seen that before! It's usually around 25. So still good!

[scot850]

Main checks are:

1) Water pump drain hole (did you replace this when doing the head)?
2) Check for residue around the header tank cap (leaking cap) and also for cracks in the header tank on the under side and around the level sensor.
3) If a turbo, then the turbo cooling lines
4) Check the pipes and joins down the back of the block.
5) Radiator on the RHS seem where the plastic tanks meet the aluminum fins
6) Heater core.

Glad to hear that otherwise it is really running well again!

Neil.

[abscate]

Seep at the thermostat are common, too.

[erikv11]

I've read of pinhole leaks in a heater hose casing such issue. Very difficult to track down.

I'll be the one to say it just to get it over with - really hope it's not the head gasket.

[songzunhuang]

Main checks are:

1) Water pump drain hole (did you replace this when doing the head)?
2) Check for residue around the header tank cap (leaking cap) and also for cracks in the header tank on the under side and around the level sensor.
3) If a turbo, then the turbo cooling lines
4) Check the pipes and joins down the back of the block.
5) Radiator on the RHS seem where the plastic tanks meet the aluminum fins
6) Heater core.

Glad to hear that otherwise it is really running well again!

Neil.

Neil,
Can you describe or give me a picture for 1) Water pump drain hole? I don't recall seeing or mention of that in all the things I've look at. I did replace the pump with a new unit during the head rebuild as I also replaced the timing belt. I used a new gasket and cleaned the surface very well. Additionally, there are no signs of moisture under the car in that area. Still I'll look again when I have time.

There is a slight suspicion for 6) Heater core. Although I have replaced that in the past, I detect a slight sweet smell sometimes in the cabin. Last time that happened, the heater core was leaking and I replaced it. When I replaced it last time, it was blowing up greasy stuff on the windshield. I hope it's not leaking again. With my current climate control flap issue, I may not get the residue on the windshield since who knows where the air is blowing!

[scot850]

Most water pumps have a small week hole. Years ago we used to add a little oil in them to tube the bearings. They are there to kind of give a warning when the shaft/seal is getting worn, they may leak a little fluid, often just after a run and switching off the engine gets warmer and the coolant pressure rises. If there is only a small weep you may not see it initially as the coolant will evaporate before it hits the ground.

Also as the bearing and seal start to wear, you can also get a leak as you start up and the engine is cold. Again the seal and shaft are relaxed and so as soon as pressure builds you can get a small leak until the water pump and coolant get up to temperature. If this is happening you may have to remove the TB cover to see. Once you get more coolant you will typically see it at the bottom of the TB cover and leaking at that rear corner under the engine block and oil pan.

https://www.volvoparts.tmsmotorgroup.co ... 0286-p.asp

In this linked picture, if you look at the LH view of the pump, you will see a hole behind the pulley and before the main portion of the pump.

Neil