2013A XC90 - Brake Line, Hose, Caliper and Rotor Service Topic is solved

[chitownV]

Nice!

Did you see these brake pads for the 328mm dual piston brakes? The friction rating is high at HH. The only thing is Ate pads are usually dusty. I don't have experience using these specific pads so cannot comment on them, but HH is very appealing. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... e-30793943

Ironically, the Ate semi-metallic pads for the 336mm brakes show only GF friction ratings. This is why I use Wagner Thermoquiet Ceramic for the 336mm brakes, which have a GG friction rating. The Wagner TQ ceramic has more friction than its semi-metallic pads. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... e-31262705

[xHeart]

Did you see these brake pads for the 328mm dual piston brakes? The friction rating is high at HH. The only thing is Ate pads are usually dusty. I don't have experience using these specific pads so cannot comment on them, but HH is very appealing. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... e-30793943

Late JRL favored Akebono on Zimmerman Coated for all-weather braking, cleanliness, and enhanced control. I always use this combo on our Volvos to remember and honor Jim.

I'm feeling better with new Volvo/SKF hub and Lemförder ball joint on spindle. The camber measurement was hair above 91mm. How will you counter hold and torque 21mm ball joint nut without specialty socket?

MVS_XC90_4188.jpg (130.31 KiB) Viewed 629 times

[chitownV]

I loathe Akebono pads because they have poor cold bite. Also, the Zimmermans are actually more prone to rust since they use more ferrous metal in their compound. I have used half a dozen sets of Akebono on vehicles and over a dozen pairs of Zimmermans, so I do have personal experience on these. I would rather use Bosch, Pagid/Hella, Ate, or Volvo for brands of rotors.

I mention the problem with Zimmerman rotors in my front end thread: https://www.swedespeed.com/threads/chit ... ts.590829/

Those reman calipers I mentioned also come zinc coated, yet they rust very quickly. Again, you can see rust poking through in pics on Rockauto.

With a little pressure from the control arm, I zip the ball joint nut with an impact driver (spins faster than my impact wrench) then do a final torque by hand. Since you should be on a Jack stand, you can also use the floor Jack to help bring the control arm up for a little pressure to prevent the ball joint from spinning.

[xHeart]

I loathe Akebono pads because they have poor cold bite. Also, the Zimmermans are actually more prone to rust since they use more ferrous metal in their compound...

Those reman calipers I mentioned also come zinc coated, yet they rust very quickly. Again, you can see rust poking through in pics on Rockauto.

With a little pressure from the control arm, I zip the ball joint nut with an impact driver (spins faster than my impact wrench) then do a final torque by hand. Since you should be on a Jack stand, you can also use the floor Jack to help bring the control arm up for a little pressure to prevent the ball joint from spinning.

The ProParts' calipers came pre coated for $95 each, just caliper with no bracket and no core return. The 328mm rotors are Zimmerman Z-Coated. I have tightened the ball joint nut while counter holding with Torx bit, but was not able to torque it; will try later; meanwhile it is coming together -- you're looking at $500 knuckle...

MVS_XC90_4196.jpg (99.56 KiB) Viewed 608 times

[chitownV]

Hopefully, the winter salt won't be too harsh on your calipers and rotors. The calipers should truly get a layer or two of caliper paint, which is more durable. Did you paint these?

BTW, I had Zimmerman rotors on my XC90 rust more than the original Volvo and Bosch Quietcast, especially inside the vented vanes. Rust can bring rotor imbalances.

Good luck and please let us know how it looks in the spring after the winter driving.

[xHeart]

The steering knuckle on our 2013A XC90 is a better design for servicing ball joint. It has two 10mm cutouts for tool to push out ball joint; it is not visible unless you take the dust shield off.

MVS_XC90_31200315.jpg (52.72 KiB) Viewed 567 times

FWIW, servicing knuckle on workbench is a civil method for family man. The camber is 91mm on both side -- feels right.

[chitownV]

The steering knuckle on our 2013A XC90 is a better design for servicing ball joint. It has two 10mm cutouts for tool to push out ball joint; it is not visible unless you take the dust shield off.

MVS_XC90_31200315.jpg


FWIW, servicing knuckle on workbench is a civil method for family man. The camber is 91mm on both side -- feels right.

Could you go over how you are measuring the camber angle and getting 91mm?

For reference,
- Here's a sample conversion chart: http://www.trackace.co.uk/Manual/Conversion%20Chart.pdf
- An example of how to measure at home: https://p1nation.com/camber-diy.html
- I attached the Volvo TJ on the alignment specs at the end of the first post: https://www.swedespeed.com/threads/chit ... ts.590829/

[xHeart]

FWIW, servicing knuckle on workbench is a civil method for family man. The camber is 91mm on both side -- feels right.

Could you go over how you are measuring the camber angle and getting 91mm?

For reference,
- Here's a sample conversion chart: http://www.trackace.co.uk/Manual/Conversion%20Chart.pdf
- An example of how to measure at home: https://p1nation.com/camber-diy.html
- I attached the Volvo TJ on the alignment specs at the end of the first post: https://www.swedespeed.com/threads/chit ... ts.590829/

I'm close to the An example of how to measure at home.

Since my situation was limited to change of geometry at the knuckle (fastening back knuckle and sturt), i.e., no change in LCA or tie rod. Therefore after raising the front on jack stand, the LCAs were ratcheted to take off upward pressure. Then placing the level against the rim for locating bubble on 90º (just the rim, no ground contact). Then after removing the first front wheel, measured from the back of the strut (above the lip) to the face of knuckle, flat surface inline with upper bolt using caliper - it was hair above 91mm. The third measurement was same as rim, but at the hub after removing the brake rotor; it corresponded with that of rim.

Very happy with not to go to alignment shop.

[chitownV]

FWIW, servicing knuckle on workbench is a civil method for family man. The camber is 91mm on both side -- feels right.

Could you go over how you are measuring the camber angle and getting 91mm?

For reference,
- Here's a sample conversion chart: http://www.trackace.co.uk/Manual/Conversion%20Chart.pdf
- An example of how to measure at home: https://p1nation.com/camber-diy.html
- I attached the Volvo TJ on the alignment specs at the end of the first post: https://www.swedespeed.com/threads/chit ... ts.590829/

I'm close to the An example of how to measure at home.

Since my situation was limited to change of geometry at the knuckle (fastening back knuckle and sturt), i.e., no change in LCA or tie rod. Therefore after raising the front on jack stand, the LCAs were ratcheted to take off upward pressure. Then placing the level against the rim for locating bubble on 90º (just the rim, no ground contact). Then after removing the first front wheel, measured from the back of the strut (above the lip) to the face of knuckle, flat surface inline with upper bolt using caliper - it was hair above 91mm. The third measurement was same as rim, but at the hub after removing the brake rotor; it corresponded with that of rim.

Very happy with not to go to alignment shop.

You changed the geometry attachment point at the knuckle, the ball joint, correct?
You also didn’t measure camber when loaded at ride height, which could also factor flexing bushings, right?

Using the strut as a reference point isn’t accurate because there’s some adjustment where the 2 lower strut bolts connect to the spindle. This is where you can make a tweak on camber. I’ve seen ay least 0.5 degrees in camber adjustment here with different XC90s.

What’s important with camber is always how the wheels and tires are when on the ground.

[xHeart]

You changed the geometry attachment point at the knuckle, the ball joint, correct?
You also didn’t measure camber when loaded at ride height, which could also factor flexing bushings, right?

Using the strut as a reference point isn’t accurate because there’s some adjustment where the 2 lower strut bolts connect to the spindle. This is where you can make a tweak on camber. I’ve seen ay least 0.5 degrees in camber adjustment here with different XC90s.

What’s important with camber is always how the wheels and tires are when on the ground.

Concur!

The aim was to keep the geometry at the knuckle-strut's upper bolt as close to 91mm with corresponding 90º bubble, which would lower the wheel to same, or hair close to its intended position.

Attached to spindle, the ball joint having a cone shaped shank meant it would seat accurately at LCA by design with no change in slope; VIDA too doesn't caution for any change.

I have ordered a 21mm flare-crowfoot for the final torque of ball joint at LCA while the wheels are on the ground; likely on ramps.