P80 P2 Subframe Bushing installation with pictures 3507923

[Krons]

Good point about not pushing directly on the rubber tabs. When pushing directly on the plastic with the 4 nuts, did the plastic lip feel solid enough ?

I don't know why Volvo recommends such a complicated press tool to get these things in as its quite simple to come up with something like you did to make it work so well. I assume you have driven it with the new bushings.....did you notice a big difference??

I used the large washer/plate and some nuts also, plastic ring seems solid enough. One word of caution is it is really critical to have the bushing centered when driving it through the subframe (maybe why the tool?). While both the subframe and bushing had a light layer of grease, I appear to have had it slightly cock-eyed or the plastic had a weak spot. Was using a Harbor Freight electric impact. Pictures below:

364C7BA1-6029-4B92-A830-561069CEB774.jpeg (508.99 KiB) Viewed 2688 times

5F995D88-CD42-4680-B638-87A854A3E0B1.jpeg (528.97 KiB) Viewed 2688 times

Also, need to have the subframe jacked nearly to the frame to have the bolt reach to drive in the bushing, should be supporting the subframe anyway.

My 08 S60 has 155k miles and even with just three done (rear passenger yet to do because of messing up the one above) the ride quality is dramatically better over rough roads and with less vibration at idle. Now to FCP for that warranty…

[enotslim]

I've seen o-rings part number 8638585 suggested as add-ons between the frame and subframe to suppress any movement/sounds that remain after renovating the subframe bushings. Is this worth doing up front as part of replacing the bushings or should this be reserved for only those cases when replacement doesn't achieve the desired results? Any downside to adding these 0-rings to P2 cars (specifically 2004 XC70) for which they were not originally intended?

[Blacklab467]

I think this is probably a good idea. I've done a bunch of searching on this and Volvo has come up with this solution as a service bulletin to address a mysterious noise that seems to occur in a small percentage of cars and XC 90's (maybe other models). If I had to do this job again I think I would add this part just to eliminate the chance of occurrence. My car doesn't have a problem with the noise so far without them. The rings are cheap and easy to install. Make sure to also replace the bolts, they're about six bucks and definitely cannot be reused.

[enotslim]

I think this is probably a good idea. I've done a bunch of searching on this and Volvo has come up with this solution as a service bulletin to address a mysterious noise that seems to occur in a small percentage of cars and XC 90's (maybe other models). If I had to do this job again I think I would add this part just to eliminate the chance of occurrence. My car doesn't have a problem with the noise so far without them. The rings are cheap and easy to install. Make sure to also replace the bolts, they're about six bucks and definitely cannot be reused.

Thanks. Are these O-rings intended to be installed at all four positions or only the two rear bushings of the (front) subframe?

[BlackBart]

If I'm changing the front sway bar and end links as well as subframe mounts, is this something better done all at once?

[Blacklab467]

I would suggest doing it all at once, if not for any other reason that the subframe bolts are one time use only and about $7 bucks each.

[crasbe]

Special bushing press.jpg
I used the washer from the first bushing and turned it upside down and glued some top strut nuts on it to make an installation tool and a bushing bolt to fully seat the bushing. This was necessary so that the force is distributed on the plastic frame of the bushing, not the rubber tabs which will crush. You will also need to put a spacer between the subframe and the frame so that the bushing seats in its bore and doesn't push up on the car frame. For this I used a Large Allen key as seen in the picture.

Thank you for describing the tool you've created and the process of removing and pressing in the bushings, it helped me a lot when I did the subframe bushings on my Volvo S60.

I want to share my version of your tool, which is 3D printed:

PXL_20231031_211559222.jpg (221.8 KiB) Viewed 1519 times

PXL_20231111_181746847.jpg (308.75 KiB) Viewed 1519 times

PXL_20231109_192210866.jpg (261.93 KiB) Viewed 1519 times

It consists of two parts, one is the installation tool, which is essentially a glorified version of the washer with the nuts glued on and a cup which creates some space on the opposite site for the bushing to protrude the subframe.
To add some stability to the cup, I used one of these cheap wheel bearing tools and the biggest tool with 81mm sits in the cup to spread the load a bit better.

PXL_20231116_195003610.jpg (307.38 KiB) Viewed 1519 times

For the installation, the tool worked pretty great however the SKF subframe bushings were very tight and I had to use a rubber mallet to persuade them to go over the ridge. However the tool provided preload and stabilized the bushings, so they wouldn't go in crooked. After the "snap" part, the tool pressed the bushings in very easily and precisely.

And as an added benefit, it can be used to install the PU inserts into the bushings as well, which is quite hard/impossible to do by hand, even with plenty of lubrication.

I published the tool with some more description on Printables, so if anyone wants to build one themselves, you're free to go
https://www.printables.com/model/634138 ... shing-tool

Best Regards,
Chris

[velorider]

@crasbe thank you for posting and sharing your 3d model. Will be using this when I replace my subframe bushing in a couple weeks.

[MoVolvos]

I've seen o-rings part number 8638585 suggested as add-ons between the frame and subframe to suppress any movement/sounds that remain after renovating the subframe bushings. Is this worth doing up front as part of replacing the bushings or should this be reserved for only those cases when replacement doesn't achieve the desired results? Any downside to adding these 0-rings to P2 cars (specifically 2004 XC70) for which they were not originally intended?

.
If you have that popping noise that's the only fix. I would add those if you are going in there. I installed those rings (2), white washers (4) and blue inserts on the 03 S80 T6 original bushings. Didn't have the confidence to replace the bushings in a timely manner. Everything tighten up and no more popping noise. I did replace all the bolts.
.
Subframe O-Ring MTC 171129 - 124933 - (Genuine Volvo - 8638585)
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/11453/S ... vo-8638585
.
Subframe Bushing Washer - P80 P2 S60 S80 V70 XC70 XC90
Genuine Volvo 31329447 - 120146
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/8859/Su ... o-31329447
.

Subframe O-Ring Location.jpg (17.93 KiB) Viewed 1466 times

Subframe O-Ring.jpg (12.78 KiB) Viewed 1466 times

Subframe White Bushing Washers.jpg (25.46 KiB) Viewed 1466 times

Subframe White Bushing Washer Kit.jpg (22.71 KiB) Viewed 1466 times

.

[PutnamS60]

Special bushing press.jpg
I used the washer from the first bushing and turned it upside down and glued some top strut nuts on it to make an installation tool and a bushing bolt to fully seat the bushing. This was necessary so that the force is distributed on the plastic frame of the bushing, not the rubber tabs which will crush. You will also need to put a spacer between the subframe and the frame so that the bushing seats in its bore and doesn't push up on the car frame. For this I used a Large Allen key as seen in the picture.

Thank you for describing the tool you've created and the process of removing and pressing in the bushings, it helped me a lot when I did the subframe bushings on my Volvo S60.

I want to share my version of your tool, which is 3D printed:
PXL_20231031_211559222.jpg
PXL_20231111_181746847.jpg
PXL_20231109_192210866.jpg

It consists of two parts, one is the installation tool, which is essentially a glorified version of the washer with the nuts glued on and a cup which creates some space on the opposite site for the bushing to protrude the subframe.
To add some stability to the cup, I used one of these cheap wheel bearing tools and the biggest tool with 81mm sits in the cup to spread the load a bit better.
PXL_20231116_195003610.jpg


For the installation, the tool worked pretty great however the SKF subframe bushings were very tight and I had to use a rubber mallet to persuade them to go over the ridge. However the tool provided preload and stabilized the bushings, so they wouldn't go in crooked. After the "snap" part, the tool pressed the bushings in very easily and precisely.

And as an added benefit, it can be used to install the PU inserts into the bushings as well, which is quite hard/impossible to do by hand, even with plenty of lubrication.

I published the tool with some more description on Printables, so if anyone wants to build one themselves, you're free to go
https://www.printables.com/model/634138 ... shing-tool

Best Regards,
Chris

Hi Chris - how long was the M14 bolt you used? The longest one I can find today is 6.25" (160mm) and I'm wondering if that would be long enough? Also, was it fine or coarse threading?

Thanks!