1997 850 out of alignment after CV Axle replacement

[moses3]

Certainly cleaning the ABS sensor is always a good idea when you can as it is amazing how dirty they can get.

Hopefully the grinding noise is now gone!?

Neil.

Hard to tell, there's a lot going on. The rotor guide screw broke, won't thread in(is it mandatory?) New caliper and pads, so maybe they are rumbling? ABS light on. Alignment a bit off(way better than before) brakes need bleeding. Hard to properly test the car at this point. Weather is also cold rainy and wet, and I don't have a garage. Baby steps. I will update soon.

[FireFox31]

That ABS sensor looks really chewed up. I've seen people complain that they're compromised when there's only a slight cut in the black plastic cylinder. As abscate mentioned, reading the wheel speed sensor values with VIDA or a good scanner will tell you how it's working. Which scanner makes/models can anyone recommend that have this ability?

When you removed the left caliper, did you exercise the piston to confirm it was moving? Read the excellent brake caliper overhaul thread by cn90. I've had many pistons freeze over the years so swear by this method for checking piston movement. For a quick check, you can leave the brake hose connected to the caliper (to save you from draining the caliper and bleeding the brakes after), free it from the steering knuckle, remove the pads, and insert wood blocks (held by an assistant carefully to not pinch their fingers). The blocks should only allow the piston to move about 1/4" max, not overextending to stretch the boot. You can gently press the brake pedal to expel the piston then use a pad spreader to push the piston back in place. Movement in both directions should be smooth and easy. There should be no cuts in the boot (best viewed with the piston expelled) or they'll let water in and seize the caliper. I recommend doing this check once a year on all calipers because they've failed me many times more often than any other part on my cars.

I disagree with this. Experience has shown several owners have had the bolt shear after re-use. Go ahead and re-use, that is your call.

Thanks for clarifying. Experience with old cars can be more valuable than documentation from when they were new. I've added bolts to my upcoming order as well as nuts.

[matthew1]

rotor guide screw not mandatory

[moses3]

That ABS sensor looks really chewed up. I've seen people complain that they're compromised when there's only a slight cut in the black plastic cylinder. As abscate mentioned, reading the wheel speed sensor values with VIDA or a good scanner will tell you how it's working. Which scanner makes/models can anyone recommend that have this ability?

When you removed the left caliper, did you exercise the piston to confirm it was moving? Read the excellent brake caliper overhaul thread by cn90. I've had many pistons freeze over the years so swear by this method for checking piston movement. For a quick check, you can leave the brake hose connected to the caliper (to save you from draining the caliper and bleeding the brakes after), free it from the steering knuckle, remove the pads, and insert wood blocks (held by an assistant carefully to not pinch their fingers). The blocks should only allow the piston to move about 1/4" max, not overextending to stretch the boot. You can gently press the brake pedal to expel the piston then use a pad spreader to push the piston back in place. Movement in both directions should be smooth and easy. There should be no cuts in the boot (best viewed with the piston expelled) or they'll let water in and seize the caliper. I recommend doing this check once a year on all calipers because they've failed me many times more often than any other part on my cars.

I disagree with this. Experience has shown several owners have had the bolt shear after re-use. Go ahead and re-use, that is your call.

Thanks for clarifying. Experience with old cars can be more valuable than documentation from when they were new. I've added bolts to my upcoming order as well as nuts.

I should have taken a picture, but the ABS sensor cleaned up nicely, mine is metal. Looked new once I cleaned it.

[scot850]

Looked like it was just covered in debris/rust. Glad it cleaned up nicely.

As per Matthew, that screw/bolt is not mandatory. Just helps keep the rotor and the threads of the hub aligned. If the bolt break, I have been able to remove it from the rear of the hub with vice grips in the past. There are often 2 holes, 180 degrees apart if one gets a bolt broken in it.

The guys have added really good suggestions for you as well regarding checking the brakes and the caliper operation just to ensure the caliper is free to move.

Neil.

[abscate]

I reuse the guide bolt, but hand tighten it with the 10 mm deep socket so it doesn’t seize, with no seize on the threads, too.

These are great FCP FreeShipStuffers ....to get to $49+ on a small order

Guide pins
Brake bleeders
Brake bleeder caps
Gas flap latch

[moses3]

The rotor seems like it's not seated? I did remove the rotor and install a new brake caliper & brake hose, I removed a lot of fluid. Is it possible the problem is caused because I haven't yet bled the brakes? Or did I not install the rotor properly? Maybe the attached videos will help.

[abscate]

Without the guide pin the rotor will flop around until the brakes are applied, and pinch and hold it.

[moses3]

Without the guide pin the rotor will flop around until the brakes are applied, and pinch and hold it.

Aren't the 5 lug nuts enough to hold the rotor in place?

[abscate]

Yes, the rotor shouldn’t move with the wheel on