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1997 850 out of alignment after CV Axle replacement

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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moses3
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Year and Model: 1997 850 GLT
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Re: 1997 850 out of alignment after CV Axle replacement

Post by moses3 »

I'm guessing the smaller ring is part of the hub bearing
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scot850
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Post by scot850 »

The smaller ring is the dust seal. The larger one is the reluctor ring.

Neil.
Last edited by scot850 on 08 Nov 2023, 21:40, edited 1 time in total.
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold

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chrafael
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Post by chrafael »

I had a similar problem recently. It isn't caused by over-tightening the axle nut, just the opposite. It's caused by not tightening it enough. I thought the bearing was a sealed roller bearing, but it isn't. It's a pair of tapered ball bearings much like a bicycle steering stem. If it isn't tight enough, the back race pushes out letting the wheel flop around and causes damage. In my case, I had to use a three foot cheater bar just to run the axle nut up and couldn't feel when all the slack was taken up. The brake rotor was holding the hub tight so shaking it didn't tell me anything. Yes, I was tired. Fortunately I knew what I was hearing as soon as I moved the car. Gotta be more careful next time.

moses3
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Post by moses3 »

chrafael wrote: 08 Nov 2023, 14:18 I had a similar problem recently. It isn't caused by over-tightening the axle nut, just the opposite. It's caused by not tightening it enough. I thought the bearing was a sealed roller bearing, but it isn't. It's a pair of tapered ball bearings much like a bicycle steering stem. If it isn't tight enough, the back race pushes out letting the wheel flop around and causes damage. In my case, I had to use a three foot cheater bar just to run the axle nut up and couldn't feel when all the slack was taken up. The brake rotor was holding the hub tight so shaking it didn't tell me anything. Yes, I was tired. Fortunately I knew what I was hearing as soon as I moved the car. Gotta be more careful next time.
Yes, I finally realized it was under torqued. That huge nut seems like it's all the way on, but it's not. The torque spec is 89ft lbs + 60 degrees. Tricky for sure. The right side was easier, it's a smaller nut, more manageable.

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