'05, V70, 2.5T - Brake Fluid Change

radmangto · Post by **radmangto** » 28 Jul 2008, 12:34

Recently I had my wife's V70 in for it's 37,500 mile oil change. I had a new V70 as a loaner car - I posted on this last month (?).

(This is the first oil change the owner pays for.)

Along with the oil change and tire rotation, I was told by the service department that it was now time for the routine

brake fluid replacement.
Ah, I said ... at 37,500 miles..?? Yes the service department said.

OK, what is the cost? It was ~$185 dinero .... well, my reply was if this marvelously designed car needs this changed every 37,500 miles, I will buy another Toyota/Lexus product.

So I declined the service.

They "noted" this in my file for warranty purposes ....

Anyone out there have any info on this as to my being right or wrong on this matter ....

Regards,
RadmanGTO

Post by **billofdurham** » 28 Jul 2008, 12:56

Volvo, and most other manufacturers, recommend brake fluid change every 2 years or at a specific mileage, in your case 37,500. The 850 is 20,000.

Brake fluid absorbs moisture which can adversely affect its efficiency. If the moisture is near enough to the calipers/pads in the brake lines, under heavy braking it can boil off and leave an air gap in the brake lines, resulting in no brakes.

I have seen this happen on two occasions, both resulting in fatal injuries.

The choice is yours.

Bill.

kwells114 · Post by **kwells114** » 28 Jul 2008, 14:55

I've only seen brakes boil once. Under heavy load, going down mountains with a loaded trailer on the back. Brake light came on, but no failure of the brakes.

For what it's worth.

howardc64 · Post by **howardc64** » 28 Jul 2008, 16:48

radmangto wrote: I was told by the service department that it was now time for the routine brake fluid replacement.
Ah, I said ... at 37,500 miles..?? Yes the service department said. OK, what is the cost? It was ~$185 dinero ....

Many service shops beyond Volvo is recommending the 2 year brake fluid changing schedule. That the fluid absorbs moisture is the common reason. My Honda dealer didn't push this service but did charge me close to $200 when I did this a few year ago (I requested it upon reading the 2 year schedule).

I won't argue the merit of the 2 year schedule. Rather, I'm curious why it cost so darn much. My pressure bleeder can bleed the whole system in like under an hour and I don't even have a lift + impact gun. Fluid is $10 a quart for the good stuff and you don't even need that much.

radmangto · Post by **radmangto** » 29 Jul 2008, 13:09

I appreciate your replys on this issue.

My initial response is if both of these replies are correct, is that we have a multitude of unsafe vehicles on the road today in regards to brake fluid.
For me to believe that significant amounts of moisture is getting into the brake system is somewhat difficult to believe in a newer vehicle. The brake lines and cylinders at the wheels are not leaking, the reservoir is tight and dry, etc. How else can "significant" moisture gain entry ...

My '06 V6 Solara work wheels has almost 70K highway miles on it ... the brakes are as solid are new. Toyota has never mentioned this fluid replacement in their routine gouging process.

In a perfect world, this fluid replacement would be wonderful. Especially if you did significant spirited driving or tow a trailer that includes sudden stops or significant downgrades .... but in a routinely suburban driven V70 to work by the wifey .... she gave up her 4sd GTO many, many years ago ...

I'd be interested to see how many reply from this forum that DO and DO NOT replace the brake fluid on the prescribed Volvo interval.

Maybe this ole dog will learn some new tricks ..

Regards,
RadmanGTO

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 29 Jul 2008, 16:13

I do not...'04 V70 bought the summer of '04 (or was it '03)....it's been 4 years (or was has it been 5?) and the front pads were replaced just over a year ago and we didn't flush the brake fluid then. The rear pads need replacing soon. At about 75K miles I'll do the rear pads and bleed them then and add the ATE Blue that fcpgroton sells...might even get a motive power bleeder for this. I agree that the system stays closed unless you open it up....but there is a breaking point (no pun intended) and it should be done at some point and not neglected.

howardc64 · Post by **howardc64** » 30 Jul 2008, 21:50

MadeInJapan wrote:might even get a motive power bleeder for this.

For a $50 investment. Motive power bleeder turns brake bleeding into a one man job + super quick. Def recommend.

Here is a trick, rather than putting the brake fluid into the Motive bleeder as they suggest (messy), just use the Motive as air pressure. First, get the reservoir low by running the old fluid through one of the calipers. Followed by filling the reservoir with fresh fluid. Connect the Motive, apply pressure and begin bleeding. When the reservoir becomes low, just fill with more fluid and keep on going. The trick is to never empty the reservoir and introduce air into the line.

However, whenever you take off the Motive bleeder cap, go slow to let the air pressure out slowly so the fluid don't slosh around. May not be any problem but I figure less chance for air into the system.

wz-dc · Post by **wz-dc** » 08 Dec 2008, 08:27

Here is a trick, rather than putting the brake fluid into the Motive bleeder as they suggest (messy), just use the Motive as air pressure. First, get the reservoir low by running the old fluid through one of the calipers. Followed by filling the reservoir with fresh fluid. Connect the Motive, apply pressure and begin bleeding. When the reservoir becomes low, just fill with more fluid and keep on going. The trick is to never empty the reservoir and introduce air into the line.

Great idea..

How much pressure do you put into the motive bleeder?
Does the ignition have to be on to activate the ABS ?
Dave

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 08 Dec 2008, 15:56

I did the fluid flush when I did my rear brakes a couple of months ago...it was really easy. I did however use the motive by filling it up. I used the recommended pressure...I believe, it was about 25...no the car didn't have to be on. No problem...worked like a charm!

Checksix · Post by **Checksix** » 08 Dec 2008, 19:31

MIJ,
Did the motive cause the master cyl reservoir to over fill when using it? I did my 01 V70 with a Mity Vac, but that sucked

However it did get the job done. Being the cheap guy like the rest of us are (hay, we fix our own stuff don't we), anyhow, I built my own "motive", the concept is extremely simple (think garden sprayer), but getting the base material at the top of the container to attach the fittings was the trick. For me I can get hold of scrap metal at my local machine shop, and used that to tap into to hook up the fittings.

I recently did my Ford truck (oldie but goodie at 1969, original owner), and the pressurized "motive" tank it caused the reservoir to fill to the very top, and when finishing up had to use the mighty vac to pull out some of the extra fluid. Now that I used the pressure system, I'm not sure I can see a way to prevent this and was interested in your results. Was anything special done to prevent this? Perhaps just using the motive as a pressure source and not fluid may be the way to go?

As a general comment on brake fluid to all readers: it is designed to absorb moisture (beats a pure water pocket at the wheel cylinder that turns to steam and you get no brake action as you can't compress a vapor). The water in the fluid will over time seek out the low spots and will rust the walls causing seal failure and leaks. Flushing is cheap insurance, and yes we can do it in under an hour for a few beers expense every few years.

Jerry