2000 Volvo S70 ETS Light

[tjmartin317]

So, I just fixed a CV axle that was totally shot (boot ripped off the whole way around) and got some front brakes (cheap pads and rotors caused warping... which the beautiful hills and valleys of Vermont didn't help). But last night, after driving the car for the first time in weeks, a new light came on the dash to accompany my Check Engine: the Electronic Throttle Sensor.

About 5 minutes of digging leads me to believe that my Throttle Module is out of wack. I'm throwing the throttle position check engine code (one of many, I think 9 in total). But along the same lines, I've noticed the car feels... very sluggish. Like, the Volvo is usually slow. But lately, it's been struggling to get off the line. And it's a stick, so I'm feathering the clutch to ensure I don't stall it every time I take off... though perhaps that's my paranoia.

This is what I found in terms of a replacement part:

https://xemodex.com/us/product/electron ... rogrammed/

But holy moly that's expensive. I'd do it if this is the only option because I want my rally car to be responsive. But I am worried about something I read on this very site that said I have somewhere between 5000 and 10000 miles of motoring before I go into limp mode... or am I already in limp mode and chalked it up to my slow Volvo being slow?

Whatever the case may be, I appreciate the guidance you all have... I need to be more active on this forum as a commenter rather than someone crying for help (I'm the same way on The Samba, the aircooled VW forum). But I have little knowledge to contribute aside from how to quickly break a volvo (hint: the answer is rallycross it).

[abscate]

Limp mode is really gutless…like idling at 15 mph, so if that’s your state your throttle body has pooped out.

They drive ok with the light on for about 10k, that’s my contribution to society based on a sample size of about 5 1999 models with ETM failures I’ve worked on

There are lot s of false positives for the ETS light, low voltages, wiring, the brake booster sensor on the brake booster under the hood …these will all trip the EtS light, too.

[tjmartin317]

I will say I’m highly suspect of the ETM. The car isn’t in limp mode (at least not as described). But if you start the engine warm it almost always stalls unless you give it gas, or if you stomp on the clutch and the rpm’s are higher (2500 or 3000) the needle just plummets to zero. Many bump starts happen if I take too long shifting gears. Hunts for idle often and needs some negotiating to get there. And the ETS light turned on before I messed with the front brakes. Also, the poor thing has 350k on the odometer.

I saw a video of someone who did a checklist of relays and voltages to look for. But again, I’m doubtful it’s anything less severe than the ETM.

Electrical gremlins… how fun.

[abscate]

The ETM bodys run 150-200k miles typically so you are probably on your second one or a heroic first

[tjmartin317]

Any way to tell if it’s the first one without tearing apart the fan? Kinda curious, and it’ll seal the deal as to whether or not it’s time to replace it or it’s definitely time to replace it.

[tjmartin317]

So… a new and slightly strange update. Perhaps this has nothing to do with anything, but tonight my Volvo cranked but wouldn’t start. Had to enlist the help of some theater friends to push start the car, which was kind of fun, made me feel janky which is the vibe I tend to give off. Not to mention they thought it was black magic that we got the car to start that way.

Regardless, it ran fine all the way home and started easily when I stalled it once or twice (cause of the rpm’s dropping and dying, and not my incompetence… okay, not *entirely* my incompetence).

Thoughts? This is an over saturated topic, I know, hence my theory as to why I haven’t gotten too many replies. Maybe this added detail makes the story more interesting

[abscate]

Hmmm. At some point you have to start taking data on the no start to diagnose

Up to -1998 , no starts are usually ignition related. ECT and fuel pumps/relays are second place contenders

Ignition got a lot more reliable in 1999-2000 with coil on plug, so fuel pump relays and ECT no starts more common

Monitoring the fuel pressure on the no start definitively tells you which branch to work the problem. A shot of ether ( starting fluid) also helps here without need for the fuel pressure tool

Firing the parts cannon is only cheap if you have a garage of parts at your disposal, nicely organized into Canadian spreadsheets

Buying and trying will hurt your pocketbook, your head and the brick wall you bang it into, your digestion, and block your colon with a potato.

[tjmartin317]

It’s only happened one other time, and that was when I had the electrics on for 5 or so minutes testing the blinker. Thankfully, after letting it sit for a bit in the middle of the Autozone parking lot, it did start up. And even after stalling it, the car started again. This was weeks ago, my blinker housing is all fixed now thanks to a local junkyard. So I’m guessing it’s a weak battery/draw of power that doesn’t get sent to the ignition electrics.

The diagnosing and parts cannon I’m now more concerned about firing is transmission related… the thing is struggling to find reverse unless I leave it in reverse overnight. And even after that it sometimes won’t pop in… will be writing that up here soon

[abscate]

The 1999 and 2000 need a solid, 12.5 volt battery to run. A good alternator and a bad battery WONT work

How old is the battery ? Can it stand 30 minutes lights on, key off and still hold 12.5 volts?