Ok so I've been trying to diagnose why my VVT does not work and why I am getting the ECM-6400 code. Remember I had an electrical fault.
My VVT currently measures 4.5 ohms resistance at ambient temps of 10c and it also clicks when supplied with 12v so it's not seized. I removed the ECM and checked continuity between A:12 and the VVT harness and there is continuity(pin 2 is A:12 according to wiring diagram). Then we have pin 1 of VVT harness which is for power supply, there is continuity between it and fuse 5. This means that as far as the electrical installation is concerned there is no short now.
I then tested pin A12 of ECM to it's own chassis gnd(the ECM case itself) and there is resistance or diode, so no short there.
Basically the VVT/solenoid should work. Yet it doesn't and I keep getting code ECM-6400 for it. So either the solenoid is still dead despite my readings and tests, the hub is broken somehow or the ECM has a fault inside.
Which of these components is dead?
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jonesg
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vida can do an actuatior test as you run the engine, it told me the exh vvt was too slow, the fix was to change the oil.
you might try monitoring the vvt voltage as you run the engine, no need to drive, just run at various rpm.
- Start the engine
- Read off the value for the camshaft shift angle and the desired value for the camshaft shift angle
- Active the quick test of camshaft control by clicking the start button
- Increase the engine speed (RPM) to approximately 2500 rpm and keep the engine running at this speed.
When the engine speed (RPM) increases, the control module will start the quick test to control the shift angle of the camshaft to the different target values. There is a fault if the control module does not operate the camshaft shift angle to the different target values.
During the quick test, check that the shift angle of the camshaft (actual value) corresponds to the target values to an accuracy of ±10°. If the shift angle of the camshaft (target value) does not change, or if the actual value does not correspond to the target value, the function is faulty.
Deviation between the values can be read off in the lower display.
Carry out the check for approximately 15 seconds at an engine speed (RPM) of 2500 rpm. The test is completed when the shift angle of the camshaft returns to 0°. To restart the test, let the engine return to idle speed, then increase the engine speed to approximately 2500 rpm.
The fault is intermittent if the function is OK.
Note! The test is active until the ignition is switched off. Switch off the ignition before the car is delivered to the customer.
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Checking the wiring
Check the fuse before the circuit. If the fuse is blown, check the circuit for a short-circuit to ground.
Check the resistance of the camshaft reset valve between terminals #1 and #2.
The resistance must be approximately 3.7 ohms.
Check the signal cable between engine control module (ECM) terminal #A13 (#A13) and camshaft reset valve terminal #2. Check for an open-circuit. Check for a short-circuit to ground.
Check the power supply cable between system relay terminal #5 and camshaft reset valve terminal #1. Check for an open-circuit.
Hint: With the ignition on and the reset valve and camshaft connector disconnected, the voltage at connector terminal #1 must be approximately Ubat.
Remedy as necessary.
you might try monitoring the vvt voltage as you run the engine, no need to drive, just run at various rpm.
- Start the engine
- Read off the value for the camshaft shift angle and the desired value for the camshaft shift angle
- Active the quick test of camshaft control by clicking the start button
- Increase the engine speed (RPM) to approximately 2500 rpm and keep the engine running at this speed.
When the engine speed (RPM) increases, the control module will start the quick test to control the shift angle of the camshaft to the different target values. There is a fault if the control module does not operate the camshaft shift angle to the different target values.
During the quick test, check that the shift angle of the camshaft (actual value) corresponds to the target values to an accuracy of ±10°. If the shift angle of the camshaft (target value) does not change, or if the actual value does not correspond to the target value, the function is faulty.
Deviation between the values can be read off in the lower display.
Carry out the check for approximately 15 seconds at an engine speed (RPM) of 2500 rpm. The test is completed when the shift angle of the camshaft returns to 0°. To restart the test, let the engine return to idle speed, then increase the engine speed to approximately 2500 rpm.
The fault is intermittent if the function is OK.
Note! The test is active until the ignition is switched off. Switch off the ignition before the car is delivered to the customer.
-------------------------------------------------
Checking the wiring
Check the fuse before the circuit. If the fuse is blown, check the circuit for a short-circuit to ground.
Check the resistance of the camshaft reset valve between terminals #1 and #2.
The resistance must be approximately 3.7 ohms.
Check the signal cable between engine control module (ECM) terminal #A13 (#A13) and camshaft reset valve terminal #2. Check for an open-circuit. Check for a short-circuit to ground.
Check the power supply cable between system relay terminal #5 and camshaft reset valve terminal #1. Check for an open-circuit.
Hint: With the ignition on and the reset valve and camshaft connector disconnected, the voltage at connector terminal #1 must be approximately Ubat.
Remedy as necessary.
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dikidera
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I have a spare 2.5t dual vvt head lying around. At the very least I can cannibalize the VVT solenoid. I am not sure about the vvt hub, since I have the NA engine whilst the head is from a 2.5t2 and not sure if they are compatible
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dikidera
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I swapped the solenoids today, it has a little torx screw holding it, I swapped it out and...no dice. it didnt work even after clearing codes. I will next attempt to command it via VIDA, well DHA to be honest.
I believe either the hub is mechanically broken(though it turns normally between advanced and normal when the timing belt is off) or the signal to command the hub is not in fact reaching the solenoid. If the signal is not reaching, but the wiring is so far ok, then this would point to a ECM problem, however I will have to hook up my oscilloscope to see what is going on.
The 2.5t2 hubs were different. Both codes and physically.
Of course I am open to more suggestions.
I believe either the hub is mechanically broken(though it turns normally between advanced and normal when the timing belt is off) or the signal to command the hub is not in fact reaching the solenoid. If the signal is not reaching, but the wiring is so far ok, then this would point to a ECM problem, however I will have to hook up my oscilloscope to see what is going on.
The 2.5t2 hubs were different. Both codes and physically.
Of course I am open to more suggestions.
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dikidera
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ECM is culprit. Burns underneath pcb layers.
Ive speculated this chip is responsible for injectors and their firing. You won't find any documentation on it as it is private for Denso. I have to get a new ECM as the damage underneath the layers is going to cause more issues further in the future.
Ive speculated this chip is responsible for injectors and their firing. You won't find any documentation on it as it is private for Denso. I have to get a new ECM as the damage underneath the layers is going to cause more issues further in the future.
Have you found any solution yet?
Was the Ecm faulty?
Because i have the exact same thing
I had a burnt Mosphet in the Ecm a soldered it with a new one and still getting ecm6440
Something might dameged my ecm further
Cant really see any damage tough.I only get 0.4V to solenoid pin 2 that means my cam is always advanced.I have bosch me7 luckily i have a team in germany that repairs those
Was the Ecm faulty?
Because i have the exact same thing
I had a burnt Mosphet in the Ecm a soldered it with a new one and still getting ecm6440
Something might dameged my ecm further
Cant really see any damage tough.I only get 0.4V to solenoid pin 2 that means my cam is always advanced.I have bosch me7 luckily i have a team in germany that repairs those
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