What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved

[P80GLT]

Started the car today for the first time since 30th September last year. For some strange reason it had a very noisy hydraulic tappet which it never had before when left over winter. A few minutes later it was all quiet again and back to normal



My plan for today was to not start the engine but when I looked underneath the car I noticed an oil leak coming through the sump cover splash guard, so I decided to put the car on the lift to investigate. It turned out to be the sump plug was weeping slightly, I did an oil change last year and fitted a new washer, but it decided to leak. I've tightened it up a bit more and I'll keep a close eye on it as the oil has only done about 1400 miles and I don't want to remove the sump plug just now.

oil leak.jpg (129.11 KiB) Viewed 2163 times

While I had the sump splash guard off I decided to fit some rivet nuts and bolts instead of the self tapping bolts I previously fitted. I don't have the fancy tool for fitting them but it's easy enough with a nut/bolt/washers and a couple of spanners to insert them.

Rivet nuts.jpg (161.04 KiB) Viewed 2163 times

[duke1]

Started the car today for the first time since 30th September last year. For some strange reason it had a very noisy hydraulic tappet which it never had before when left over winter. A few minutes later it was all quiet again and back to normal



My plan for today was to not start the engine but when I looked underneath the car I noticed an oil leak coming through the sump cover splash guard, so I decided to put the car on the lift to investigate. It turned out to be the sump plug was weeping slightly, I did an oil change last year and fitted a new washer, but it decided to leak. I've tightened it up a bit more and I'll keep a close eye on it as the oil has only done about 1400 miles and I don't want to remove the sump plug just now.

oil leak.jpg

While I had the sump splash guard off I decided to fit some rivet nuts and bolts instead of the self tapping bolts I previously fitted. I don't have the fancy tool for fitting them but it's easy enough with a nut/bolt/washers and a couple of spanners to insert them.

Rivet nuts.jpg

hi the noisy tappet is normal esp if left unused for a while all that happens is the oil drains out of the tappet and they make a noise till the oil pump fills them up again,cold oil takes a little while to reach that high up the engine,as long as it goes quiet quick once running all is good.good luck

[scot850]

When we restarted my friends 96 850 10V NA last year it has been sitting for a few months. Sounded like a bag of nails. Once we drove it about half a mile it suddenly went quiet. Then it just purred. Not bad for a car with somewhere around 500,000km!

Neil.

[ZionXIX]

I let mine sit untouched open to the element, no windshield, passenger windows busted for literally 1 year. I changed the battery abd she started right up and drove right out of there. Tapped like crazy until built oil pressure.

[MoVolvos]

Started the car today for the first time since 30th September last year. For some strange reason it had a very noisy hydraulic tappet which it never had before when left over winter. A few minutes later it was all quiet again and back to normal



My plan for today was to not start the engine but when I looked underneath the car I noticed an oil leak coming through the sump cover splash guard, so I decided to put the car on the lift to investigate. It turned out to be the sump plug was weeping slightly, I did an oil change last year and fitted a new washer, but it decided to leak. I've tightened it up a bit more and I'll keep a close eye on it as the oil has only done about 1400 miles and I don't want to remove the sump plug just now.

oil leak.jpg

While I had the sump splash guard off I decided to fit some rivet nuts and bolts instead of the self tapping bolts I previously fitted. I don't have the fancy tool for fitting them but it's easy enough with a nut/bolt/washers and a couple of spanners to insert them.

Rivet nuts.jpg

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That's a great idea on the rivet nuts. Have you ever drained the oil and put in a new filter with oil in the filter cartridge before storage, then add oil right before firing it up. Perhaps the oil going in front the top would eliminate the dryish start?
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[P80GLT]

Have you ever drained the oil and put in a new filter with oil in the filter cartridge before storage, then add oil right before firing it up. Perhaps the oil going in front the top would eliminate the dryish start?

I'veever tried that, not sure if it would be any better but I like your thinking. Oil light went out immediately on start-up, it's never clattered before when left over the winter so unsure why it has done it this time. Oil level was on the mark, the oil in the splash guard would be no more than a couple of teaspoons full, not even enough to drip onto the garage floor. I wonder if filling with 5W instead of 10W would maybe help a bit. More research before tucked away in the autumn.

side view.jpg (224.33 KiB) Viewed 2069 times

[MoVolvos]

Have you ever drained the oil and put in a new filter with oil in the filter cartridge before storage, then add oil right before firing it up. Perhaps the oil going in front the top would eliminate the dryish start?

I'veever tried that, not sure if it would be any better but I like your thinking. Oil light went out immediately on start-up, it's never clattered before when left over the winter so unsure why it has done it this time. Oil lever was on the mark, the oil in the splash guard would be no more than a couple of teaspoons full, not even enough to drip onto the garage floor. I wonder if filling with 5W instead of 10W would maybe help a bit. More research before tucked away in the autumn.

side view.jpg

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Would be an interesting experiment if you decide to give it a go. Just don't forget to add oil when putting it back into service.
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[brunocerous]

Spent the morning reattaching Blue Steel’s AC condenser to the radiator.

I got everything buttoned up, and then got an odd-sounding crank, no start. I tried a new battery and fuel pump relay, but it only cranked and sputtered before stalling. We were planning a trip to Pennsylvania and DC for spring break this week, so I’m glad it happened before we took off, but I’m puzzled.

Any suggestions welcome!

[bmdubya1198]

Are you getting fuel? Almost sounds like a washed down cylinder.

[MoVolvos]

Spent the morning reattaching Blue Steel’s AC condenser to the radiator.

I got everything buttoned up, and then got an odd-sounding crank, no start. I tried a new battery and fuel pump relay, but it only cranked and sputtered before stalling. We were planning a trip to Pennsylvania and DC for spring break this week, so I’m glad it happened before we took off, but I’m puzzled.

Any suggestions welcome!

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Could be fuel, spark or timing. You want to be sure not to crank too many times in case you are flooding the cylinder and then the CAT. Turn the key to Position 2 and push the Schrader valve to see if there is fuel squirting out.

Next check the cap & rotor. If it seems to look okay then remove the 2 screws to expose the injectors. Unplug the connectors and with the key in the Position 2 test to see if you have Voltage at the leads. Polarity doesn't matter when checking. If you have voltage then check spark to the plugs.

Timing would be the last to check.
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98 Engine Compartment.png (1.86 MiB) Viewed 1985 times

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