I have a 2005 Volvo V70 and a while back it started showing oil in the coolant. It took me a while to figure out that it was transmission fluid in the coolant. I discovered this after the transmission started to slip and then quit working completely.
I was hoping that I could just replace the radiator, flush the cooling system and then flush the transmission and it would start working again. I finished doing all of this tonight, but it still wont move. I flushed and drained 24 quarts of transmission fluid through the tranny, getting out all of the water I could. Near the end of this, the fluid was mostly clear.
I also flushed the cooling system.
Once I had done all this, I had high hopes that it would work. The transmission is topped off with the correct amount of fluid, and it pulls a bit sometimes, but it wont move.
I have DICE / VIDA, but I realized tonight it will only run on Windows 7, so If I'm going to use it, I'm going to have to figure that out.
Is it possible that resetting the TCM will allow it to start working again? That's the last thing I haven't done.
I hate to junk this thing. I just finished replacing the timing belt, the fuel pump, the plugs and it only has 100k miles on it.
I don't know much about replacing the transmission in this thing, but the transmission shop said it would cost $4000 to put a rebuilt one in it. Any help is appreciated.
~LFilson
Water in Transmission
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dikidera
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It is probably dead, but for other reasons. The glycol in antifreeze decimates clutch packs, they have likely clogged the filter leading to low oil pressure and thus no moving car. In this case, a double whammy as you both had destroyed clutch packs and a clogged oil filter.
I had the same happen to me, but was running pure water at the time as coolant and thus likely reduced the damage. But glycol is clutch pack enemy #1.
I had the same happen to me, but was running pure water at the time as coolant and thus likely reduced the damage. But glycol is clutch pack enemy #1.
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dikidera
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Absolutely not, you have a mechanical issue now. No way but a rebuild or used gearbox, of course used means you never know what condition it truly is in.
If it is a clogged filter, after it sits for a few days , it *may* drive for just a bit before the pump sucks up the gunk and it clogs up the filter. Actually you can also verify this if you pull out the return like of the oil and nothing comes out whilst the car is running, I believe. vtl can say more.
If it there is fluid flow , then perhaps the issue is now lack of clutch packs.
If it is a clogged filter, after it sits for a few days , it *may* drive for just a bit before the pump sucks up the gunk and it clogs up the filter. Actually you can also verify this if you pull out the return like of the oil and nothing comes out whilst the car is running, I believe. vtl can say more.
If it there is fluid flow , then perhaps the issue is now lack of clutch packs.
- jonesg
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grab a used or rebuilt and swap it out.
kevin albert williams does it in 4 hrs without a lift , works outside in any weather.
this is a volvo deisel but its mostly the same.
kevin albert williams does it in 4 hrs without a lift , works outside in any weather.
this is a volvo deisel but its mostly the same.
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lfilson
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I've been dreading the idea of swapping this automatic transmission outside with no lift. I had no idea that it could be done in such a short period of time. After it sits for a while, it will move. Last night, I let it sit for a couple of hours after I finished flushing it. It pulled forward to around 50 feet, but then stopped and wouldn't move. I let it sit another 2 hours, and was able to back it up another 50 feet until it stopped again.
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dikidera
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Something tells me the V50 construction is different than the P2. No matter how or where I dont think you can simply drop the AW55 without dropping the subframe, and the engine and tranny are all held by mounts ON the subframe. Specifically for AW55, it has a aluminum frame which is bolted to the AW55, and the aluminum frame is what rests on the mount which rests on the steering rack. Additionally the rear mount also holds the engine, so with the subframe out he needs something to hold the engine, additionally the engine does not sit straight down, but slightly slanted, which I've heard is most difficult to get correct.
And if he does, he needs new bolts for the subframe as the originals are torque to yield.
And if he does, he needs new bolts for the subframe as the originals are torque to yield.
- volvolugnut
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I do not see that anyone mentioned the likely cause of coolant in your transmission. Most likely the transmission oil cooler has a leak between trans fluid and coolant. This must be fixed before any other fix is attempted.
volvolugnut
volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
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lfilson
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I haven't tried pulling the return yet, but last night after it sat for a few hours, I was able to drive it forward about 50 feet then it stopped, no reverse, no nothing. Then, this morning, I cranked it and was able to back it up to its original location before it stopped again.
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lfilson
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I replaced the radiator last night, and then flushed 24 quarts of fluid through the transmission, 3 quarts at a time.volvolugnut wrote: ↑21 Apr 2024, 09:59 I do not see that anyone mentioned the likely cause of coolant in your transmission. Most likely the transmission oil cooler has a leak between trans fluid and coolant. This must be fixed before any other fix is attempted.
volvolugnut
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