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XC90 Rear Hatch Strut Attachment Point Damage Repair

A mid-size luxury crossover SUV, the Volvo XC90 made its debut in 2002 at the Detroit Motor Show. Recognized for its safety, practicality, and comfort, the XC90 is a popular vehicle around the world. The XC90 proved to be very popular, and very good for Volvo's sales numbers, since its introduction in model year 2003 (North America). P2 platform.
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MoVolvos
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XC90 Rear Hatch Strut Attachment Point Damage Repair

Post by MoVolvos »

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The rear hatch of the XC90 is all fiberglass from my research and man IS IT HEAVY! As such the hatch strut pivot bolt is just epoxy into the fiberglass. One side was missing the strut while the other barely hanging on in the hatch. Did some research and found this method, which seemed the most secure with options for future repair or strengthening.
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1) Enlarge hole with Uxcell Reduced Shank Twist Drill Bits 14mm High Speed Steel 4341 with 10mm (3/8") Shank

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082CXCFD1?re ... tails&th=1

2) M8 X 1.25-Pitch 40 mm Length Metric Hex Coupling Nut 304 Stainless Steel Rod Coupling Nuts. Used this coupling so I can drill through to the other side of the hatch in case it ever remotely starts to come loose. Would use long 12" bit slightly smaller than the hole of the coupler to drill through the other side of the hatch. Once through will enlarge the hole on the other end of the hatch and secure with a hex M8 X 1.25-Pitch bolt. Will add a fender washer to the Pivot Ball end so the coupler can be pulled tight, sandwiched between the frame of the hatch. Very solid at this point but will practice holding the hatch as it goes up so it doesn't jolt as it reaches the top.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B095J5XTNG?ps ... ct_details
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Although it's wedged in there tight, had to hammer in, could have used some Epoxy to fill the slight gaps. Regardless should hold for quite some time.
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2012 XC90 Rear Hatch Strut Attachment Point Repair 5.png (1.04 MiB) Viewed 403 times
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Originally was thinking of using a bracket. Already drilled a hole when I saw the Hex Coupling method. Drill holes on the ends of the bracket and use a drywall anchor to expand and secure. The Pivot Ball would have a M8 X 1.25-Pitch bolt behind the bracket. At this juncture I could just add the bracket to the existing insert / hex coupling and it would outlast the XC.
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2012 XC90 Rear Hatch Strut Attachment Point Repair 6.png
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2012 XC90 Rear Hatch Strut Attachment Point Repair 7.png (321.92 KiB) Viewed 403 times
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BKM


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scot850
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Post by scot850 »

Could you have used a thread-sert of the correct diameter and glued that and tapped it home?

Neil.
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
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MoVolvos
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Post by MoVolvos »

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Had cut loose two generic Pivot Balls from a bad strut. Matching the threads to a threaded insert besides the correct hole size in the hatch would be too time consuming besides the cost.

The original Volvo Pivot Ball was a thick nub, had super course threads and was glued in. The thread was basically useless for tightening but rather more for grip to the glue used. I prefer the mechanical / pressure fit of the coupler. The length also will help spread the pressure of the heavy hatch within the width of the hole. Except for the drill bit everything is relatively inexpensive. The coupler also can be easily adapted for two other methods of future repairs if needed.
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Blessings,

BKM


2008 C30 T5 2.0 M66
2007 S60 2.5T - New Project
2003 S80 T6 Transmission DIED
2000 S70 SE Base - New Project
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chitownV
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Post by chitownV »

So, basically, you just did what has been done for years by XC90 owners.
https://www.swedespeed.com/threads/hatc ... st-8152634

In the link is a method tested by many XC90 owners. Variations are in the type of adhesive/epoxy, but overall will work. I would NOT suggest using a bracket that could rust over time. At the same time, if a long rectangular bracket is put on the outside and gets loose over time, it will scratch/dent the paint on the body if it rotates. A larger stainless steel washer has been suggested before for some support between the threaded ball and the insert; this is a much better method. Not only can it provide good support, but it won't be too thick (unlike a bracket mentioned earlier).

Again, the tried methods have been discussed for years by XC90 owners who have been driving their XC90 for decades, not a few months. All it takes is some good search. The newest XC90 is 10 years old and the oldest 20+ years old. A lot has already been hashed out.
2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 169k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Continental CrossContact LX25 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

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Post by MoVolvos »

chitownV wrote: 26 Jun 2024, 00:49 So, basically, you just did what has been done for years by XC90 owners.
https://www.swedespeed.com/threads/hatc ... st-8152634

In the link is a method tested by many XC90 owners. Variations are in the type of adhesive/epoxy, but overall will work. I would NOT suggest using a bracket that could rust over time. At the same time, if a long rectangular bracket is put on the outside and gets loose over time, it will scratch/dent the paint on the body if it rotates. A larger stainless steel washer has been suggested before for some support between the threaded ball and the insert; this is a much better method. Not only can it provide good support, but it won't be too thick (unlike a bracket mentioned earlier).

Again, the tried methods have been discussed for years by XC90 owners who have been driving their XC90 for decades, not a few months. All it takes is some good search. The newest XC90 is 10 years old and the oldest 20+ years old. A lot has already been hashed out.
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"Did some research and found this method, which seemed the most secure with options for future repair or strengthening." First paragraph 4th sentence in my post I said it was not from my creative mind. Only felt this was the best solution at of all those in the link so didn't bother. The epoxy were hit and miss in the reviews so didn't bother. Share with us how many methods you've personally used and found to be the best solution. Thanks!
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Blessings,

BKM


2008 C30 T5 2.0 M66
2007 S60 2.5T - New Project
2003 S80 T6 Transmission DIED
2000 S70 SE Base - New Project
1998 S70 T5 Prior
1989 240 Wagon Prior

chitownV
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Post by chitownV »

Just sharing some of the information that has been discussed and used for years. The washer is a much safer solution for adding support and there are stainless steel washers that won't rust. Nothing wrong with adding useful information from XC90 owners since you mentioned and showed pictures of potentially using a bracket for wood from Home Depot.

BTW, how many miles have you driven in your 2-3 month-old XC90?
Have you been able to test any of your fixes while daily driving the XC90?
2008 XC90 3.2 AWD - 169k miles, Premium, Versatility 7 passenger, Climate, Convenience, retrofit Morimoto D2S HID bi-xenon, iPd swaybars & poly bushing inserts, Powerflex poly control arm bushings, Bilstein Touring Fr struts, Continental CrossContact LX25 255/55R18, Fr Infinity tweeters & speakers, hardwired cheap $17 Bluetooth to center console aux & pwr, CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coated, no oil consumption using Mobil 1 0W-40 even w/ my lead foot

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