99 v70 Non Turbo ETM

[scot850]

The cable is generally routed behind the starter motor, unless it has been replaced previously. OP said it was behind the starter motor. The cable connector is too wide to pull up behind it. I have only ever found one not routed behind the starter in the junkyard.

Neil.

[abscate]

It’s the right side starter mount plate that makes the ETB cable captive. If your starter has been replaced it’s likely the new one came without that metal mount, it was made redundant on later P2 engines

One m8 bolt and 2 m6 nuts to remove, but be careful the two m6 nuts don’t unscrew the starter body threaded bolt or bad things happen

[FireFox31]

That's right, the starter was replaced on the car with the ETM I easily swapped. And the car in my picture is not the one I easily swapped. Sorry it was misleading. Edited my previous post.

[RB3]

Thanks for confirmation. I may cut it (against my will) if I go Xemodex route. Don't want to mess with starter.

[mngene2023]

I have a 1999 s70 2.4 non turbo FWD. It originally had a bad ETM w/ light on, and what turned out to be an open circuit on the main 12v power to the ETM. I bypassed the pigtail with a jumper wire and now have 12v to unit. I replaced the potentiometer in the original ETM with contactless, but it was fried(deprecated magnet, or bad internals). I then purchased a yellow label unit out of a 2000 s70 non-turbo. When I installed the new ETM, the light went out, and throttle response was better, but idle jumps between 1000-18000 RPM indefinitely ,unless I slowly press the gas pedal in which case at some point it will stutter, and then the idle calms down, but still runs rough. I do have a check engine light, and the following codes. p1025 and p1057. Also, on my code reader the live data shows that the butterfly rests at 20% at Idle, and will increase when I press the pedal. Spark advance increases and decreases, even when the butterfly remains in the same position. Do you think this could all be software related, or might I have another bad ETM? ETM shows as rebuilt by XemodeX in 2014. I have attempted unplugging all the sensors one at a time...02,tempsensor,secondary air, MAF, MAP, and tank purge valve. It made no difference. The cylinders seem to misfire as well. Not sure if it is the ECU shutting them down, or if some other issue. No vacuum leaks that I could find. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance!

[mngene2023]

...

[RB3]

Finally bit the bullet and got a rebuilt throttle body from xemodex. It did start right up and the ETS light went off immediately. That was nice to see. But as previously discussed and unable to get the cord around the starter. If you cut the wires the core fee is voided But at this point it seems easier. I just wonder if That martinelli is worthless or if someone can rebuild it and rewire it. Certainly don't want to throw it in the garbage. Very difficult to reach in there. I could remove the one 10 mm but couldn't budge the 12 mm On the bracket on the left hand side if you are facing the front end. I haven't called any shops to see what the estimate is. But I'm truly concerned about that starter I don't want to have to replace it. Especially after just getting the throttle body. Currently I think it idols around eight or nine but it seems like it starts high? Almost like the foot is on the gas pedal although it immediately comes down. Maybe that's the way it's supposed to sound and I'm just not used to it.

[abscate]

A lot of NA cars high idle on cold start to burn off excess fuel.

[scot850]

If you move the ETM cable behind the starter, with the new one fitted, don't route it behind but somewhere to zip-tie to keep it away from moving parts like the cooling fan. Owners often remove the bracket on the starter motor completely.

Starter is only held on by 3 bolts, 2 in the bendix end (RH viewed from the front) and one on the bracket into the engine block. It can be a little tricky getting the starter off the dowel pin on the bendix end. A gentle pry will get it to move.

Neil.

[abscate]

That M8 12 mm hex head bolt on the starter bracket is a nasty one to move. It always bonds itself to the hot engine block and I find it need heat and good tools to get that out. I put it up there with the water pipe bolt as a nasty.

Same with the M8 that holds the intake manifold bracket , thats another nasty one.