No luck with Tasca, need to order new lock cylinder keyed to VIN, good source?

[cn90]

Exactly, what is wrong with your ignition tumblers?

[br0dy519]

were it me i'd remove the tumblers and make it so any key could turn it, without the fob the car isn't going anywhere.

I like this hack idea, anyone tried it ?

[abscate]

There are YouTube’s on this.

After you remove the lock cylinder ( Dremel needed to notch two security torx for removal)

Now you need to drill three holes in indexed spots for compression of the snap ring thst hold the lock cylinder in.

Once that is out, you can remove all the lock tumblers and you are now keyless or universal key

viewtopic.php?t=100432

[Allgonquin]

FYI, the Lisle price was bogus. I called back to order it, and spoke to another parts guy, who could not verify the price. After he dug around, apparently the $344 price was for a "door lock assembly" so the first parts guy I spoke to was clearly an idiot, because I never once mentioned anything to do with doors. So second parts guy digs in the computer and tells me $427.78. Fine, I'll order it. Then second parts guy says he has to check with the "parts manager" because they never send out key coded parts, etc. I offer to email a copy of my title, driver's license and anything else. He says he'll call back. Bzzzzzt. No call back. Next day I call AGAIN and say WTH? Oh, sorry, our parts manager says we can not sell to you, out of state, bla bla bla. So I suck it up and contact my local dealer. Price is like $531! So I say, can you match an internet price of $427? Long pause. OK, yes, but we have to add sales tax. Fine. I order it. Now.... I wait.

[volvolugnut]

Dealers get real nervous when you ask for keys for newer cars.
It was so easy and cheap to get a new ignition key and switch for my 1977 Ford truck.
volvolugnut

[cn90]

For those reading this thread, the problem (cannot turn key) can be fixed in 99% of the time by removing the rectangular plate at the bottom.

I detailed my experience in the P80 forum for my 1998 S70.
Same idea for P2 cars.

[Allgonquin]

cn, believe me I read your post and was considering doing that. Someone else posted that after doing that they could not turn the key at all so I've hesitated. Anyway, today I pulled the plastic covers off my lock today and found the "relocker" pin rolling around in the bottom clamshell. I ordered a new lock assembly a few days ago, and I need to have the airbag recall done, so I'm going to beg them to replace the lock cylinder while they are doing the airbag.... They are going to laugh at my 20yo car with 285K on it and a permanent check engine light!

[cn90]

The reason ppl cannot turn the key when the bottom plate is removed: they fail to remove the small pieces that are inside. I posted that info in forum as well.

The airbag recall is a 5-min job.

The tumbler: the problem is in removal of "security bolts".
The trick is to cut a slot for screwdriver.

[erikv11]

Based on all the various posts etc. I speculate that at minimum hundreds of people "all across the internet" have removed the bottom plate. It works well. Works on P80 cars, works on P2 cars ...

[Allgonquin]

End of the story. I don't like reading hanging threads. Anyway, I sucked it up and ordered the whole new lock cylinder pre-cut to my existing keys. After spending a good 1/4 of the value of the car, I had it home. Waited a week and got my courage up and got my Dremel out and tried the first bolt, on the passenger side. Cut a slot, unfortunately somewhat off center. Put a short but fat screwdriver on it and it started to turn. Home free! NOT! It turned a little more than half a turn using every ounce of torque I could muster and stopped dead. Tried penetrating oil, tried some heat with a mini torch on the surrounding metal, tried freezing the offending bolt using upside down canned air. It was not having it.

So I decided to cut another slot. Did a better job ~90 degrees to the first. Screwdriver on it, got another 3/4 of a turn and dead stop again. And yes, the screwdriver would cam out at times, worsening the slot. So I packed everything up as I knew I was too frustrated to think straight. Several days later I woke up in the middle of the night and thought that I could try a bolt extractor on the now somewhat mangled head of the bolt. And also realized that worst case I could just grind the head completely off the bolt, which I'd never actually thought of, idiot that I was. So today I tried the extractor. Bzzzt. Would not bite at all. So I dug out the Dremel and went HAM on it with some carbide burrs and a small drum sanding bit and ground it flat. Then with a small diameter composite cutting disk I very carefully cut a perfect slot. Started to turn but stopped again, but this time, with a good slot, I could hold the screwdriver and use a wrench on the handle of the screwdriver to get more torque, and slowly that sob came out. Covered in blue Locktite. Sooo happy! For the second bolt on the driver side, I cut a perfect deep slot from the beginning, and used the wrench/screwdriver technique and the bolt came out with no drama at all. Reassembly was a cakewalk, once I figured out how to get the shift cable out of the old lock. I'm happy, and more importantly, my wife is happy!