Right side outer CV joint issue Topic is solved

[Oro]

Maybe this helps a bit:

A) if the inner is not shredded, and you don’t want to deal immediately, you can run a while with saran wrap and zip ties to keep it from flinging grease. Sounds ghetto, but honestly it works.

B) If the inner is NOT trilobal on the can (the can is smooth all the way around, not indented externally for the lobe grooves), the UK-made “Bailcast” split boots are in fact decent products. I used one once in a pinch and was impressed. $20/$22 on Prime. These are quality rubber and work OK if installed carefully/correctly:

https://www.amazon.com/Bailcast-CVS18- ... B0080DLLIY

C) For the Oetiker clamp that failed, a strong large zip tie works just as well. Really, they do. I learned this from the autocross community where boot repair is a constant thing. The boots fail long before the wide zip ties, in autocross or in street use.

Looks bad, but works in a pinch for grease control. I have my Lexus GS (that’s the pic) wrapped this way now; it has been for a few weeks until I could get to the axle in this coming week:

[jreed]

It's been a month or so since I repacked the inner CV joint on my 850, so I'm not sure I'm remember it correctly, but I thought that --at least on my car-- it was possible to remove the inner CV boot without having to disturb the outer CV joint.

[Sveedy]

That's what i saw on Roberts video as well, but my tripod bearing unit doesn't just come out of the can housing the way his does.
From what I've read online, others have been in the same spot, so maybe there are differences in some axles. But I'll definitely check again and see if it can be pulled apart.

[Oly850]

So FCP has the GKN axles and these guys are OEM axle shaft suppliers for Volvo and other makes, but they are eye wateringly expensive $395'ish. That's a lot of shekels!

IPD has axles from Protech with great reviews for $175. They've been in the business for more than 20 years and are based in Streethaven, Pennsylvania.

+1 for trying out a repair boot, just make sure you have snap ring pliers and those special pliers for the heavy duty bands that you'll have to deal with. Both FCP and IPD have them. Good luck!

[scot850]

The problem with replacing the inner boot without disturbing the outer boot is that the 3 rollers are 'staked' in the cup. If you look at where they would exit the cup, there will likely be a point on the end of the cup that has been flattened to prevent the wheel exiting.

You can either remove the outer CV boot again, or you could file the stakes down enough to tap the bearings out of the cup. Fit the boot and then tap the cup back on and then use a large punch to re-stake the cup ends.

Neil.

[Sveedy]

Well that outer joint will not come back apart. I took it to a driveline / axle shop, and they said that with the new clip ring, even they wouldn't be able to get it to release. They'd seen it before. However they had a solution. Stretch Boot (https://www.stretchcvboot.com/shop/.) Apparently they are a c.v. boot that is made out of a very flexible rubber. You slide a plastic cone over the c.v. joint, and then slide the boot over the cone and on to the shaft. Pretty simple and neat ! I'll be the guinea pig, so we will see.

[scot850]

I have seen that advertised and a air tool with long fingers to stretch it over the outer joint. I will be interested to hear how it goes!

Neil.

[Sveedy]

Well I finally finished the " project ". I can easily say it was the worst experience working on Sveedy. Ever.

I measured everything, and selected the DCB300 stretch boot for the inner RHS. But it was obvious from the start that the stretch boot was going to be a real bitch to get over the installation cone. So....

First I built a jig to hold the axle vertically, lubed everything up liberally with Marvel Mystery Oil, but it still took two of us to get the boot over the cone ( one pushing and one pulling ). Then had to switch to holding the axle horizontally with a set of chain vice grips and a rag. Talking about two construction types, not desk jockeys, so a tiny bit of force was needed to get the boot over the cone.
The cone is designed to be used from the outer end of the axle, not the inner, so I had to cut it to fit over the axle so I could do the inner boot.

Takeaways : Replace both boots, even if only one is bad. You DON'T want to do this again.
If possible, remove the outer c.v. joint and replace the boots from that end. Stretch boot should be a second choice.
Use a jig to hold the axle, no matter If removing the c.v. joint, or using a stretch boot w/ a cone installation tool.
Be prepared to recruit a second set of hands.
Lots of pairs of rubber gloves and a roll of paper towels.

This whole experience reminded me as to why I am a straight axle type of guy. Just straight forward and simple. The only " boots " involved are the ones you're wearing, and the only " joints " involved are.....well 'nuff said

[scot850]

Well that was monumental! Well done and hopefully the last time for a long time! I have done the boots a few times over the years and never really enjoy the process. Like you say, the grease seems to get everywhere and is a devil to get cleaned off.

If I were to do the inner the outer comes off. I have removes the inner once, but it was already opened up as the LHF axle had been over extended pulling the inner end out. The outer joint is a challenge as getting the ring clip out is a devil without the right flat nose reverse pliers. Then holding the axle tightly in a bench vice and hitting carefully and hard on the cage with a brass drift has always got them off eventually.

Not a job I relish!

Neil.