Engine Shaking & low power - 2000 s70 FWD Base Model

[rtjl]

Long story short I purchased a vehicle as-is, and the first mechanic I brought it to did not do much in the sense of diagnostics. After 2 months of not being able to get much communication, I nearly lost hope in getting the car back and buying used cars as a whole. However, I was able to finally get the car out of the shop, and am still trying to get them to communicate exactly what was done so that I can at least have some peace of mind. Not that I think much good will come of it.

I have a deep appreciation for Volvo and some of the older models, and having been attracted to the brand for such a long time i've decided to commit to the project. Having seen the car in person it was exactly what I was looking for.

I am interested in repairing or restoring it depending according to what wisdom the internet can provide me on these forums, however as this is supposed to be my primary driver and first vehicle, I'd also like to get it up and running sooner rather than later. Below are some more details for anyone who is able to give some feedback.

Vehicle Details:

Model: Volvo S70 2000
Engine: B5244S (FWD, Non-Turbo)
Mileage: 425,500 km

Current Symptoms:

Engine Shaking: Engine shakes back and forward between driver seat and front bumper. Bad cylinder is the current suspected culprit.
Cylinder pressure issues (low & no compression in two cylinders).
General engine underperformance potentially related to these issues.

Work Completed and Mechanics Involved:

Mechanic 1: Disappointing experience. They kept the car for an extended period, barely ran diagnostics, and charged me for a filter change and a vague diagnostic about fuel line discontinuity. Can address this more later, still gathering more myself.

Mechanic 2: Discovered no pressure in one cylinder and low pressure in another, while the other three seem fine. Recommended finding a replacement engine with a solid maintenance history and reasonable mileage. I also intend to replace all the engine mounts at the same time.

Mechanic 3: Another option is a third mechanic, recommended through a friend. They can perform the swap and engine mount replacements, but the car will need to be towed there.


Looking for Advice: I’m open to:

Engine Swap: Find a compatible engine with a solid maintenance record and low mileage.
Engine Repair Kit: Rebuild the engine, though costs may approach those of an engine swap.

Stage 0 Plan: I’m also considering performing a Stage 0 to restore the car to optimal functionality by addressing all wear-and-tear items, from vacuum lines to sensors and fluids. Any feedback on this approach, especially regarding prioritization or common pitfalls, would be greatly appreciated.

I am also interested and open to replacing things such as engine mounts as mine have all gone bad or are damaged, and any other things suggested.

Before moving forward; I am:

Looking for suggestions for further testing or inspections before committing to a rebuild or swap.
Insights on the cost-effectiveness of a swap versus an engine rebuild.
Feedback on executing a Stage 0 restoration and its potential impact.

---
Quick Summary:
Facing cylinder pressure issues on my Volvo S70 2000. Mechanic 2 recommends either finding a replacement engine or rebuilding the current one. Also considering a Stage 0 to restore the car.

Open to advice on the best course of action.

[scot850]

Low compression on these cars is often head related, not bottom end. Did the mechanics do a dry and wet pressure test on the poor cylinders to identify if the issue is bad piston rings or valves? These cars are prone to burning valves at high mileages. If that is the case, then a top end rebuild might be all that is needed.

Neil.

[Sveedy]

Kind of depends on the condition of the rest of the car, how much you can do yourself, and how long you plan to keep it.
It's getting hard to find low millage engines in salvage yards, but if you could find one, that would be the most economical / easiest route.
If the rest of the car is in good condition, and you want to have a reliable car that you plan on keeping for the long haul, then the rebuild is the way to go. But also way way more $$$.
Either way, the engine is out, which gives you easy access for all kinds of maintenance ( mounts, hoses, p.c.v. ), and when you're done, you will effectively have a stage 0 car.

[rtjl]

hello Scott850,


Thank you for your response. I really appreciate everyones assistance at this moment.

I have posted the same post in a few locations, so I may occasionally respond to something not directly mentioned. If I copy and pasted my response and did not respond to your comment, I apologize. Feel free to call me out if i have missed out crucial information.

I should probably go ahead and mention now that I am GREEN when it comes to automotive.
This is my first car.

I briefly worked at a tire shop in the past, and have a basic understanding on how the wrong sized wheels can impact experience and performance, but thats about it.
I am comfortable with computers but have decided to stay away from anything performance enhancing for now, given this is a non-turbo model.

I have some tools (VIDA14 on a laptop, mongoose JLR cable, multimeter.) I have used all except the multimeter at this point due to lack of knowledge of where to even begin.

I will likely need to buy a jack* (or two?) and a tool kit**, as I do not have the bit required (looks like a hexagonal philips esque indented tool ) to remove the plastic on top of the engine, as well as likely many others that wont play nice with just a regular philips. I would also require a bore scope for your mentioned cylinder inspection*. (other location suggestion)

- - -
From what I saw, mechanic 2 performed a pressure test with a sort of tube looking device with a barometer on one end. He also mentioned it could potentially be something like a bad seal, but did not go into deeper diagnostics as I only really asked him for a basic quick response, and thats all he charged me for.

Are there some visual signs I can look for indications of burning valve?
What does a top end rebuild look like?

Cheers,
Jonathan

[rtjl]

Hello Sveedy,

I am pretty limited in my current skillset but am willing to buy the tools and spend time learning the skills. However, Im sure there are things I don't have such as a ton of space or risk appetite involving performance enhancement, as this is to be my first and daily vehicle.

Ideally, this car is something i'd like to keep for as long as possible, assuming it doesnt have some catasrophic failure that costs more than the connection. So i'm willing to takng on a little costs. However, I would like my initial large cost to cover a reasonable amount.

I'm not having the greatest luck finding similar or exact replacement engines near me, seems like my current best bet is importing from the US or the UK.

I have not yet exposed myself to scrapyards, so I'm unaware of that inventory.

Thank you for your time and help, I appreciate the input.

[scot850]

To do several repairs on Volvos, a set of Torx sockets or tools is helpful. The top cover uses I think it is a T35 Torx bit. AS it sounds like they have been off recently, then they should be fairly easy to remove.

Where in Canada are you if you don't mind saying (even Province). We might be able to give suggestions on where to try for an engine or parts nearer you or even repair shops that are Volvo familiar.

There have been many noobie's to car repairs here who have gone on to do many complex repairs with help for the great MVS members on here. There are no stupid questions, better to ask than break or damage. It works out cheaper!!

Neil.

[rtjl]

- - error post

[rtjl]

Hey Neil,

I am located in Toronto, Ontario.

I was able to find a T35 torx bit on amazon for 10-15$ for multiples of the same one, or 45$ for a set of difference sizes. Can show what im looking at if the forum permits. the multi set seems okay, but not sure if i'll need all those difference sizes just yet.

Agree on the latter. Im a bit nervous to get into it and know I tend to have a heavy hand, so want to gather as much info as possible before applying muscle. I'm currently responding to posts made to my thread on multiple locations in hopes I don't miss any crucial feedback.

I also took a couple of photos, so if theres an effective way for me to upload it i'd love to share what she looks like.

Thank you for your time!

Jonathan

--Edit

I would also like to note that I have three completely different sets of rims. The ones currently on the vehicle are not the original for this model from my understanding .

[scot850]

Torx set. Get the different sizes. You will find anything from a T8 to T50 used on your car. Canadian tire does a reasonable set I use which has both short and long reach. You will find you will use most of them. Only size it doesn't have is a T8, but it is not likely you will use one any time soon. This is identical to the one I have, but I got it on sale. This sort of stuff goes on sale at CT regularly.

Car looks in really good shape for an Eastern car. A few small areas of surface rust that are easily treatable underneath but really good.

I like the NA engined 2000 cars. Many will warn you about the 5-speed auto is a bad trans. My buddies I worked on still has the original and his car has about 335,000km on it. The similar 02 XC70 I am working on has 385,000km on it.

I know there was a place that parted out Volvos and other cars in the Toronto area. Worth also joining the P80 group which has a lot on members over in Ontario who may have parts or leads on what you need used.

Neil.

[abscate]

I’ve got a good used 2000 cylinder head removed from a car lying in Albany Ny. That could fit well into your plans.

You need two things, a place to work and a friend in your local Volvo group to guide you through your first big project.