Engine Shaking & low power - 2000 s70 FWD Base Model

[rtjl]

Hello Neil,

I am looking at a set that includes the different bits shown below. The set plus a wrench will run me about $50 Cad.

I suppose you mean p80 section on this forum? That would definitely be a great place to consider, thanks.

Please let me know what I should investigate regarding the underbody rust, as this is also a concern at this time. will likely need to scrub to get a better picture of the condition.

Thank you for your continued feedback.

[rtjl]

Hello Abscate,

Wow, a red post! (green here I guess)

That sounds amazing. If its something that falls into my path I will definitely go over the options on that one. I appreciate the info.

I have a place I can work on it (for now), and will likely aim to find others in my area that are interested. If not I will simply do it myself to the best of my ability until I have to hand it to the professionals.

Thank you for your time,
Jonathan

[rtjl]

Small surprise;

I have nearly all maintenance history dating back to the day the car was purchased.

With very minimal gaps and no incidents, I am happy with that. If theres any scheduled maintenance in particular we should look at, let me know.

day 3 of Info gathering. This is what i've heard so far.

considerations:

- This is likely to exceed what i'm expecting to pay, and will not return the value I spend.
- It would probably be wise to use this as only a basics learning experience, and leave the important work to the professionals.
- It could always be a lemon.
- Get informed on the condition of underbody rust.
- Be prepared for unforseen down time in the winter.
- Join P80 Group, find Ontario members who may have leads.
- I should consider asking for help from experienced Volvo owners in my area.

Tools:

- get a toolset designed in the metric system.
- wrench/spanner
- and a 3/8 & 1/2 ratchet & sockets.
- Hydraulic jack (min 1.5Tons)
- 2 jack stands or ramps
- battery charger
- cylinder compression gauge.

Diagnostics recommended:

(CaSwede)
1) Clean ETM well
2) Replace Plugs
3) Replace Coils
4) Replace Injectors
5) Replace front engine mount in the front passenger wheel well

(steve)
Remove the spark plugs
Inspect the spark plugs - do they have physical damage?
Do a compression test
Look inside each cylinder with a cheap borescope to assess valves and cylinder condition
Possibly remove the intake manifold so you can look at some of the valves.
Get quotes for replacement engine, fitting, or rebuild.

[scot850]

I think you have gathered most of the pertinent points above.

I was thinking about the boroscope. I have a couple of cheap ones. One is better than the other as it has a mirror that can turn the view to allow upward viewing which is handy for looking at potentially bad valves. It also can take a picture. I think I got it on Amazon a few years ago.

These days you can buy a cheap lead with a camera that attaches to a cell phone and works from an app. The would appear to be pretty cheap. Ideally the app would allow you to take a picture of what you are seeing so if you are not sure, you can ask for help.

While I think all the suggestions are fair on replacing all those parts and cleaning the ETM are good, I would check the compression an the spark plugs and coils first. It would be handy to have access to a code reader. Do you have an engine check light on?

Replacing parts are fine to get the servicing up to date. But first find what is wrong so you are not doing a parts cannon on the car.

If you can find any engine codes and let us know what they are we may be able to point you to where to look for issues.

Neil.

[abscate]

Jonathan

Let’s talk hours.

I would skip all the small stuff, confirm those compression results, and then get into a top end rebuild

Time to buy about $300 of tools, good quality bits are important

10 hours of work will get your cylinder head off. It might be double that , first time. Getting the exhaust manifold off can be hell, likely you need to Dremel stuff off.

Once the head is off, it’s best to take it to a machine Shop for rework. Figure $500 for that

We will guide you on which valves and seals to buy, important .

Another 10-20 hours to put it back together.

Use an old phone and take pictures. Measure each bolt for diameter, and length, baggie them, and sharpie where it came from and time of picture to guide reassembly. That’s a huge time saver on the reassembly. Keep a notepad handy and write down bolts that need to replaced so you keep track

Be inspired by Sean, who took this path a few years back!

viewtopic.php?t=96644

[Sveedy]

I don't think I'd put all of that time and money into just the top end of an engine which is closing in on 270k miles.
It's generally thought that the added compression of the new top end can blow other things in the bottom end.
I actually think removing the engine wouldn't take anymore labor, and MIGHT be an easier task for a beginner. I say MIGHT only because the car is FWD. Just my $.02
But I agree - the car looks sound.

[abscate]

Think about your use case a bit, and your goals. Getting 5 years/ 50,000 Canadian miles out of this ride is the one that would fit the best.

If compression is bad, stop there and “ off with her head” rework the top.,,,graphic courtesy of foggy dog

These cars, basically, don’t rust. I’ve got 4 of them which lived in the Northeast and never had structural rust of consequence.

[rtjl]

Update;

I plan to begin purchasing the tools over the next 24hours. Will post the ones I've found before I do.

It doesn't seem to lose coolant or cause any smoke. I'm not sure how to determine if theres coolant in the oil.

I will confirm and responding to further messages tomorrow after I charge the car. Will run Vida as well.

Just curious, when running v1da, I generally have the car off, but that is what killed the battery last time.

Should the car be running prior to booting up V1DA? I've experienced V1DA crashing when starting up the car when the fault trace asks me to restart the car, so not sure if im doing something wrong.

-- additional notes --
- has Dry or wet pressure test been performed?
- cylinder head/piston ring/ valve inspect if possible
- burning valve may be resolved via top end rebuild
- check "O" ring seals on heater core pipes.
- transmission evaluation
- seek Parts sourcing options
- look into lifetime warranty brands (FCP?)
- if the engine is coming out, you have easier access for maintenance such as mounts, hoses, pcv, which effectively provides stage 0 car.

-- objectives --
I'd like to plan on keeping the car for as long as possible. I'm hoping on using it for 4-5 years from the result of my efforts after this is done. Ideally, longer.

-- Tools checklist --
- Torx set. You will encounter T8-T50 on the car. T35 for top cover
- Hydraulic jack (min 1.5 Tons) - (car is 3150-3208 lbs, should I get two?)
- 2 jack stands or ramps
- battery charger
- cylinder compression gauge.
- borescope lead that attaches to camera or phone
- Battery charger

If I have missed anything, Let me know.

-- Planned Procedure --
Record everything to confirm assumptions. May post the video for additional information.

note: Take pictures and measurements for bolts. Include diameter and length. Make note of origin and order of removal of each item.

Keep a notepad and write down each bolt that needs replacement to keep track of what and where is to be replaced.

-Battery charger
-code readings
-order tools
-Compression results confirm
-spark plugs check
-coils check
-cylinder inspect
-get quotes for engine replacement, fitting, or rebuild

if replacing top end:

-exhaust manifold remove
-remove cylinder head
-machine shop rework for cylinder head
-valves and seals replacement
-rebuild

if engine replace:

- Because I don't have the tools or the space for this, I may likely leave it to mechanics after quotes. Any additional feedback on what I can consider in this path is appreciated.
-As I am interested in 4-5+ years, I am in favor of this option, but feel like I will not get a product still in good condition if its available for a reasonable price. So not sure yet what is ideal for my objective.

-- costs evaluation on amazon.ca --

I think I may have double posted some of the search codes.
I swapped some tools for a decent set.
Here is the list:

https://www.amazon.ca/hz/wishlist/ls/33 ... _=wl_share

If any needed parts are missing, or the above are of poor quality or brands are known for bad quality, or I am missing crucial items, please let me know.

--Shop rebuilds--
Haven't looked at legitimate quotes as I haven't resolved exact needs.

Considering this as a rough estimate ( first result on google, 2023 prices, not familiar with shop.) Prices are in CAD.

https://extremeengines.ca/machine-shop-price-list

-- rare / watchlist parts --
(To be edited)



-- Tools List --
Here is the list:

https://www.amazon.ca/hz/wishlist/ls/33 ... _=wl_share

[scot850]

Watch for water in the oi and oil in the water. Remove the coolant reservoir tank cap and look for oil floating in the water. It should be obvious.

For water in the oil, remove the oil filler cap and check for a brown mayonnaise in the underside. You may get some caused by lots of short runs in a car that does not warm up enough and it can cause condensation on the cap.

Pull the dipstick and check for same issue on that.

Also check the transmission oil. there should be a short yellow dipstick on the front of the transmission near the LHS (from driver's seat) bottom of the radiator. You may have to pull the air intake pipe to the airbox to get to it. It has a small metal clip that holds it in place. Check this also for brown sludge caused by a leaking transmission oil cooler on the rear of the oil pan.

Neil.

[rtjl]

Greetings Neil,

I'm not sure if its oil in the coolant, its hard to tell and its not very visible on the photo. It would appear there may be.

There is definitely some build up underneath the oil cap. The car has only really had short runs, but when I took off the cap it was smoking a little white.

The transmission oil was also checked and saw that it was hot but didn't seem to have build up.

I took a look at the oil pan, however even though there is a visible color difference it didn't actually feel wet. I'm not sure about this one.

I also noticed two unsecured cables and took photos of those and the above mentioned, including error codes.

I can't find a strictly metric tool kit, but the set i listed includes:

17 × Metric Socket - 1/4" Drive
10 × Shallow 6 Point: 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13mm
7 × Deep 6 Point: 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13mm

20 × Metric Socket - 3/8" Drive
10 × Shallow 6 point: 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19mm
10 × Semi-Deep 6 Point: 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19mm

11 x Combination Open Wrench
Metric: 10, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17mm

1 x Spark Plug Socket - 3/8" Drive
I don't see a metric socket for the spark plug. If needed can order this separately.
What specifically am I missing, or can I order this?

Thank you,
Jonathan