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99 Volvo V70 2.4 Topic is solved

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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RB3
Posts: 44
Joined: 29 September 2019
Year and Model: 99 V70
Location: California

99 Volvo V70 2.4

Post by RB3 »

Battery/ alternator.
First off, just replaced my ETM at 210,000 mi.
Here we are a couple weeks later going down the road –dash lights flash And remain on until I pull over and restart. The vehicle. Starts fine. Runs fine but the battery light stays on.
Is there a separate alternator Light on the panel?
Go a little ways down the road. Battery is now dead. Auto parts store runs their simple test which is telling it alternator. No previous hesitant starts or anything else noticeable I.e no lights on the dash etc.
Hands are somewhat tied as vehicle is a couple hundred miles out of town. Should I just try to find an alternator and have it installed or should I try cables first? If it was at home, I might try the regulator but not a lot of options at this point. At over 200. Should I just assume it's toast? I think it's the original.

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MoVolvos
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Post by MoVolvos »

RB3 wrote: 16 Sep 2024, 11:42 Battery/ alternator.
First off, just replaced my ETM at 210,000 mi.
Here we are a couple weeks later going down the road –dash lights flash And remain on until I pull over and restart. The vehicle. Starts fine. Runs fine but the battery light stays on.
Is there a separate alternator Light on the panel?
Go a little ways down the road. Battery is now dead. Auto parts store runs their simple test which is telling it alternator. No previous hesitant starts or anything else noticeable I.e no lights on the dash etc.
Hands are somewhat tied as vehicle is a couple hundred miles out of town. Should I just try to find an alternator and have it installed or should I try cables first? If it was at home, I might try the regulator but not a lot of options at this point. At over 200. Should I just assume it's toast? I think it's the original.
.
A couple of weeks ago helped a friend's parents replaced an older battery as their 2000 Maxima stopped in a shopping center. Costco warrantied the battery and after installation the battery light and a couple others came on. Advance Auto happened to be in the shopping center and testing indicated alternator. Replaced for them and now fine.

A week ago the battery light and dash lights for all the doors including the rear hatch on our 03 Odyssey came on. Tested the voltage while running and was around 12 volts. One of the reviews for the alternator on the A-Premium Auto Parts website indicated after installation those same lights went out. Installed the alternator yesterday on the van and all the dash lights back to normal. Alternator was OE with 245K miles.

You can find A-Premium parts on Amazon but I've opted to buy direct, sometimes for a few dollars more for the 3 year warranty vs Amazon's 1 year for the same part from A-Premium. Have purchased for myself and friends, 2 alternators, starter, ac compressor, injectors, coils and hood struts for various make and models (Ford, Honda, Lexus, Nissan and Volvo). You might be able to get an additional 10% off for providing your email.

Alternator for 2003 Honda Odyssey
https://a-premium.com/product/Alternato ... JmpERsaLlm

Alternator 120A 12V CW 6-Groove Clutch for 1999 Volvo V70 - $159.99 - $187.99 15% OFF
https://a-premium.com/product/Alternato ... DRC7BO08IN
.
Blessings,

BKM


2008 C30 T5 2.0 M66
2007 S60 2.5T - New Project
2003 S80 T6 Transmission DIED
2000 S70 SE Base - New Project
1998 S70 T5 Prior
1989 240 Wagon Prior

scot850
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Post by scot850 »

If the bearings are not noisy, a new regulator may be all you need. But that is a judgement call.

A bad battery can take down an alternator by having the alternator run continuously trying to charge it, so it could be toast.

I guess your options are limited being away from home. I would do a visual check of the wiring, battery connectors and grounds for corrosion.

Neil.
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
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RB3
Posts: 44
Joined: 29 September 2019
Year and Model: 99 V70
Location: California

Post by RB3 »

Had it towed. Battery is charging. I would love If it was cables or regulator but I'm thinking I might have killed it with carelessness leaving doors open, keys in ignition etc. Appreciate the A Premium advice. May let a shop do this one though.

RB3
Posts: 44
Joined: 29 September 2019
Year and Model: 99 V70
Location: California

Post by RB3 »

So I've been looking online for alternators and in checking the A premium it does say it fits but it's listed as 12V not 14V? Of course the Bosch in the vehicle has 14V printed on the side. I assume the A premium and others put out more than 12 but want to make sure it is sufficient. New vs. Reman factors in as well. That Bosch lasted a long time. Decisions decisions

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Post by scot850 »

Typically they are differentiating between 6V, 12V and 24V.

Neil.
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold

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Post by abscate »

RB3 wrote: 22 Sep 2024, 16:29 So I've been looking online for alternators and in checking the A premium it does say it fits but it's listed as 12V not 14V? Of course the Bosch in the vehicle has 14V printed on the side. I assume the A premium and others put out more than 12 but want to make sure it is sufficient. New vs. Reman factors in as well. That Bosch lasted a long time. Decisions decisions
Sadly, that remanufactured Bosch won’t carry the quality of the original. Wall Street has gotten its slimy fingers into the margins of the auto parts business and has swapped quality for profit.

For a long term runner, it’s best to get your OE part rebuilt by an auto electric shop

If you want 2-3 years from the car, a “ remanufactured” will get you through
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread

RB3
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Joined: 29 September 2019
Year and Model: 99 V70
Location: California

Post by RB3 »

Decided to order an advertised "OE" alternator from FCP for $$. They sent me a POS from China. No order confirmation. No packing slip. No tracking information. It just showed up at my door. Needless to say I'm not happy with them. What, if any experience does anyone have with FCP?

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volvolugnut
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Post by volvolugnut »

If you are dealing with FCP Euro Parts, I have never had a bad experience with their parts. But I have not ordered an alternator from them. Return it for credit and ask how OEM became China.
volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
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RB3
Posts: 44
Joined: 29 September 2019
Year and Model: 99 V70
Location: California

Post by RB3 »

Yes, thank you, I fully expected what you described as your experience. Unfortunately it was complete misrepresentation. Bait and switch if you will. I've read and re-read the description. I don't think I've ever ordered anything online and not gotten an order confirmation instantly and or tracking information. It's 2024 . I'm not interested in credit. I don't believe I'll be doing business with them again. But unfortunately It's leaving me without transportation for an extended period of time.

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