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Buying (bought) a Volvo 850 1996

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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DennisCA
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Year and Model: 1996 850
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Re: Buying (maybe) Volvo 850 1996

Post by DennisCA »

Yeah I would prefer to refurbish and repaint what I got, I think that's more rewarding, at least if it comes out looking good.

I went at the strip a few days ago and WD40 did help. I still got some pieces stuck yet though.

I've ordered a timing belt kit but I am not sure I got the right one. Depending on serial number you need a different belt, if it's before or after serial 131155. The serial is supposedly behind the exhaust cover, placed so it's hard to find. But there is this sticker on the timing belt cover. Is this also the serial?

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DennisCA
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Post by DennisCA »

I've gotten the timing belt kit with new water pump and a serpentine belt.

I also got the timing tools and want to use them so I'm doing a more extensive disassembly of the engine components. I started with the airbox just to get more access

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I decided to inspect the PCV hose and flame trap. Doesn't look clogged.

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But the smaller hose is clearly bad so I will at least need this one replaced. What does the smaller hose do?

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Looks like the intake will have to come off.

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erikv11
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Post by erikv11 »

I'd pull that perforated flame trap disc and throw it away.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6 :shock: 153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k

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DennisCA
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Post by DennisCA »

Yeah I'm deleting the flame trap, I found more crud behind it. I am hoping I can replace the vacuum line but I am worried it'll end up with more stuff breaking.

I am not sure what purpose the vacuum line serves? The bigger hose connects to the side of the intake and there should be vacuum there. What purpose does it serve to have another vacuum line that connects to the far side of the intake.

A guess is it has something to do with the idling of the engine. If I where to guess... Perhaps during idle the throttle valve is closed and the Idle Air Controller supplies air, bypassing the valve, this means there's no vacuum on that side during idling. Am I right so far? So in order to ensure vacuum at all times for the PCV system that vacuum line is fitted to the far side of the intake.

That still makes me question why not simply connect that vacuum line to the much closer and more conveniently located vacuum tree?

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DennisCA
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Post by DennisCA »

And the injector rail is off, I don't have a fuel return line! Apparently that's a thing?

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I tried to reach the bolts holding the oil dipstick in place but it was just impossible, I ended up removing the fan for better access.

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Then when I've finally loosened the last lower bolt on the intake, my only work light dies on me. It was pitch black outside so that was the end for me that night.

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DennisCA
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Post by DennisCA »

I've removed the intake now but the whole thing is connected yet via hose on the intake, it's screwed into the forward facing side with 90 degree connector. Not sure what it does? Hopefully not filled with coolant? Maybe a thicker vacuum line?

e: Oh yeah brake servo line. For some reason I thought this car didn't use a vacuum servo.

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DennisCA
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Post by DennisCA »

I managed to remove the PCV system without breaking it! (well that one vacuum line was pre-broken)

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But then I managed to break the plastic pipe going from the oil trap to the throttle body. But I think I can replace it, perhaps with a steel pipe instead. Already got a replacement vacuum line.

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And the "breather hole" on the engine block, looks just fine compared to some of what I have seen online where this hole is basically plugged up.

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Lifted the car and removed a tire to get started on the timing belt procedure. Cover's off

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Quick peak at the timing and it looks a little bit off compared to the markings but I guess they are not that super precise,

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The crank shaft marking is hard to see and harder to photo, here's part of it and it lines up well I think.

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Then removing the distributor and camshaft sensor to check how the cam locking tools will fit.

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And it doesn't fit... The bracket for the engine mount gets in the way. If only they'd made the cylindrical part a bit longer, or something...

So apparently removing the bracket for the engine mount was easier than I thought, but by the time I had learned that, I had already modified the tool. I have some other manuals for reference and they do not show the bracket being removed when using the Volvo tool so I naturally thought this cheap tool was incorrectly made,

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Then some new holes

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Remove the old bits which get in the way of the bracket.

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Verify that they still are in line with each other. They lined up exactly like this on both sides before any modifications were made, I was a bit surprised about that I figured they would be offset and wouldn't line up.

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And check if it now fits, and it does.
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Someone commented I ruined that tool and they wouldn't trust it, but IMO it lines up now like it did before any modifications and that is the important thing I believe. I don't think we need machining to a thou here. But I am welcome to other opinions. I don't trust the tools much really, the tool for the crankshaft won't go in the hole behind the starter motor either, too large.

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erikv11
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Post by erikv11 »

About PCV lines:

Rubber one from the box to the valve cover, I'd replace with Volvo-branded now, it will then last the life of the car.

Long plastic one from the box is posted about ad nauseam on this forum: replace with any oil-rated hose e.g. fuel line. Don't use generic heater hose it will turn to mush.

The box clean it out and re-use.

The little hoses from the box to the block only replace with Volvo-branded hoses else you'll be back under the intake in 8 months to fix them.

I'd replace all the old rubber vac lines now e.g. viewtopic.php?t=65002
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6 :shock: 153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k

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jreed
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Post by jreed »

I agree with replacing the long nylon tube in the PCV system. I used 5/8" fuel-rated hose and it has been working fine with no issues noted for three years so far.
I am impressed how much you're doing on the engine at once... taking my time, a timing belt and PCV service would each be a two or three day job for me.
1997 855 GLT (Light Pressure Turbo) still going strong. Previous: 1986 240 GL rusted out in '06, 1985 Saab 900T rusted out in '95, 1975 Saab 99 rusted out in '95, 1973 Saab 99 rusted out in '94

scot850
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Post by scot850 »

Awesome work and good job on the tool modification. Don't see what the issue with modifying it to make the job easier. You checked the 2 faces were still parallel, that is what is important.

Doing all this work makes sense if you plan to keep the car for 4-5 years or more. Still way cheaper than buying a new car and paying a lot for something worth half the value in less than 5 years. Then you still pay the servicing.

Erik's advice on the rubber hoses is something I also 100% agree with. I made the mistake in buying an aftermarket kit with some Volvo parts and some aftermarket. I was re-doing it with Volvo parts 700km later when one of the aftermarket hoses split!

Neil.
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold

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