Waterpump help!

[FunWithPaul]

Hello Volvo owners!
My mom has a 2001 2.4T XC-70 that has developed a coolant leak (I think) near the timing belt.

I am pretty mechanical (LOTS of successful DIY automotive/ boat projects), and have learned:
When lacking in knowledge, ask the owners forum!

So here I am, I just joined.

How difficult is it to change the waterpump? (have you done it?)
I see it is driven by the timing belt, and I am sure keeping the cams in time is important ...

Is it difficult to get to?

I look forward to your experience.

Thanks,
Paul

[erikv11]

Welcome, Paul!

Likely this job will not be too difficult for you.

The timing belt must be removed. That's easy to do, but it is an interference engine so you must be extra careful to get the timing done right. Note that also means could be a bad idea to run it with a weepy water pump. On that car the VVT hub on the intake cam will make it a little bit more of a hassle. Tons of DIY instructions out there; here's a link to get you started viewtopic.php?t=101131

The water pump bolts are easy to access after removing the timing coolant reservoir, timing cover and timing belt. The aluminum water pump mounting surface needs to be scraped clean, again a hassle but not especially difficult. Be careful not to gouge the surface.

If I was changing the water pump, I would look at the timing belt history and think seriously about cost-benefit of doing a whole timing belt job at this time. TIming belt, roller, tensioner pulley and water pump.

There are also strong opinoins here about what brands are OK for the timing path parts, again due to the interference engine aspect.

[cn90]

How many miles in the car?

By the time you need WP, which is anywhere at 160K-200K miles, do the whole thing: TB, serp belt (Conti), all pulleys (INA).
The WP is made by Aisin.

Brand matters, avoid parts from local auto stores.

You can search FCPEuro, Rmeuropean or Autohausaz. I wrote a detailed procedure for my 2005 XC90 2.5T here...

viewtopic.php?t=83521

[vtl]

Timing belt and water pump is easy job on this car.

While the old timing belt is still in place, take a white corrector pencil or marker and put marks on sprockets and belt, a couple on each sprocket. Transfer the marks from old belt to new belt. This way you will know upfront if you missed a tooth.

[Krons]

Another “while there” item to consider is cam seals. If pushing 200k worth changing them while the timing belt is off and the camshafts are locked in place. Would suck to have one of them start leaking a month after doing the job.

[vtl]

Another “while there” item to consider is cam seals. If pushing 200k worth changing them while the timing belt is off and the camshafts are locked in place. Would suck to have one of them start leaking a month after doing the job.

VVT hubs usually give up first.

I'm saying that, because in 4 out of 4 my inline-5 Volvo engines VVT hubs started to leak or otherwise malfunction sooner than the seals.

[volvolugnut]

Do a glove test (rubber glove tied over the oil filler hole). If it inflates the glove, plan to do a PCV change as well. Lots of threads here on doping that also.
volvolugnut

[vtl]

Do a glove test (rubber glove tied over the oil filler hole). If it inflates the glove, plan to do a PCV change as well. Lots of threads here on doping that also.
volvolugnut

May not help with a typical P2 mileage. Thin walls opendeck engine bores get taper, compression rings wear out. I replaced the rings, taper is well within the spec, PCV is new. The engine still has positive crankcase pressure under the boost. Oh well, it is what it is.

[dono]

Another “while there” item to consider is cam seals. If pushing 200k worth changing them while the timing belt is off and the camshafts are locked in place. Would suck to have one of them start leaking a month after doing the job.

VVT hubs usually give up first.

I'm saying that, because in 4 out of 4 my inline-5 Volvo engines VVT hubs started to leak or otherwise malfunction sooner than the seals.

Same here - 2 out of 2 of my 2004 2.5T's got VVT (exhaust side) oil leaks (250k and 150k mi). All of the cam seals were practically welded in there and were not leaking at all.

[jonesg]

Hello Volvo owners!
My mom has a 2001 2.4T XC-70 that has developed a coolant leak (I think) near the timing belt.

I am pretty mechanical (LOTS of successful DIY automotive/ boat projects), and have learned:
When lacking in knowledge, ask the owners forum!

So here I am, I just joined.

How difficult is it to change the waterpump? (have you done it?)
I see it is driven by the timing belt, and I am sure keeping the cams in time is important ...

Is it difficult to get to?

I look forward to your experience.

Thanks,
Paul

its not rocket science but as everyone is pointing out, the car might be due for full timing belt service, whilst in there it make sense.
Belt, pump, idler pulley , tensioner pulley.
I didn't know what was due on my car so I swapped out the lot.
If the belt is not due i would just swap the pump out, don't get into the cam seals if they ain't leaking, thats a deeper project.

Disconnect battery negative, remove wheel and open the access flap on the fender liner, clip with small vice grips.
Turn the engine with 32mm socket on the crank nut, set timing marks up.
disconnect the elec sensor and relocate the coolant bottle out of the way.
Clean the pump mating surface thoroughly, use a good light to inspect.
Hang the gasket on locating stud and slide the pump on, finger tighten all the bolts first.
Torque for the pump bolts is only 12 ft lb, so don't go crazy, long skinny bolts can easily twist and snap.

Reinstall top timing cover to locate the spring loaded cam hubs as you install the belt, set the tensioner position and rotate the engine twice to check for valve clearance.
Button it up.