It's been months since I've had a problem with my 2000 S70, the last issue I had were shift cable related, and a PCV pipe wrapped in duct tape seems to have solved this problem. Now I'm stuck fighting with the driver's side CV axle, and have been for week.
I'll start by explaining the latest dilemma. I went to a RallyX on Sunday having just installed a fresh driver's side CV after a different replacement sheered the little 14mm bolt in two. It couldn't be extracted, got a new CV last second, slapped it wrong at 10pm, and unsurprisingly did it wrong.
The very tip of that CV got shredded because I'm assuming I didn't jam it in all the way like I thought I had. Now I'm worried I've fucked up the splines of my transmission as well. So I wanted to test that with a different CV axle that didn't have stripped splines. That one won't go in either. It's also been a struggle to take out so I'm not sure if it is stripped transmission threads or just a PITA.
This is the second axle, going on third. It was replaced because the one in it was totally borked and wouldn't survive a single lap of RallyX. I'm surprised it held up for as much daily driving as it did. Then we replaced it, forgot to torque down the axle bolt, realized it when we noticed a 55mph wobble, attempted to torque it, and broke the bolt. Extracting that bolt was attempted first, but to no avail. A new CV axle was purchased, thrown in, and apparently not pushed in all the way (it was 10 or 11pm when we did this, a stupid mistake could have easily gone unnoticed).
Is there a trick I've been missing? A step to make getting these things in and out less of a burden? I'm concerned about my transmission splines now to and until I can get an axle back in, I'll continue to be mildly freaked out... a transmission rebuild ain't in the budget.
Thanks for the tips. Or sympathy. Or anything.
Do CV Axles on these always suck to replace (apparently, yes. 2000 S70)
- tjmartin317
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Do CV Axles on these always suck to replace (apparently, yes. 2000 S70)
Last edited by tjmartin317 on 04 Nov 2024, 18:26, edited 1 time in total.
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2000 Volvo S70 (Blue - Manual Beater)
1972 VW Type 3 Squareback (Fargo - Terrible Rustbucket)
- volvolugnut
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The transmission spines MIGHT be OK if they are harder steel than the axle spines. Get a bright light, good magnifier, get your head down there and do a close inspection of the transmission splines. If damaged it will only be the outer edge as this is where your axle ran.
Careful work with a file may get additional life from the transmission splines. Just dress them enough to get another axle started.
volvolugnut
Careful work with a file may get additional life from the transmission splines. Just dress them enough to get another axle started.
volvolugnut
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- tjmartin317
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A couple screen grabs from a video I took seem to say that my transmission splines are okay. Nothing flaky or shredded.volvolugnut wrote: ↑04 Nov 2024, 18:25 The transmission spines MIGHT be OK if they are harder steel than the axle spines. Get a bright light, good magnifier, get your head down there and do a close inspection of the transmission splines. If damaged it will only be the outer edge as this is where your axle ran.
Careful work with a file may get additional life from the transmission splines. Just dress them enough to get another axle started.
volvolugnut
I removed the cup part from a bad axle and have been testing with that, and it'll lock into the splines. I think I'm now just bumping into issues with that damn circlip. I just cant push it past that first row of splines so it refuses to go in... What's the strategy for getting that into the slot?
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1972 VW Type 3 Squareback (Fargo - Terrible Rustbucket)
2000 Volvo S70 (Blue - Manual Beater)
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- erikv11
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While you are inserting the axle, try making sure the circlip has its "C" opening facing down, so that gravity drops the circlip fully into the axle slot.
Aftermarket CV axles are notoriously crappy on these cars. Sometimes the circlip is also just so poorly made that it is a bear to get the axle in or out.
The used, 25 year old axles are almost always more functional if you can find them.
Aftermarket CV axles are notoriously crappy on these cars. Sometimes the circlip is also just so poorly made that it is a bear to get the axle in or out.
The used, 25 year old axles are almost always more functional if you can find them.
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- abscate
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The circlips are often improperly shaped on aftermarket axles. Replace it with one from an OEM or GKN axle
There is another trick , use heavy grease to center the circlip on the axle when you push it in. You need to hear the click as it engages or it is not seated. The transmission splines are designed of hard steel so thst the axle gets borked , not the transmission.
There is another trick , use heavy grease to center the circlip on the axle when you push it in. You need to hear the click as it engages or it is not seated. The transmission splines are designed of hard steel so thst the axle gets borked , not the transmission.
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jmartin919
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What was the issue with the shifter cable and what was your fix (PVC pipe)? My shifter on my 2000 S70 seems rough/sticky compared to my 93 850 and I'm wondering if it may be the cable.
'00 S70 GLT SE
'82 MB 380SL
'11 MB E350 Sport
'84 Chevy C10
'93 850 GLT NA SOLD
'82 MB 380SL
'11 MB E350 Sport
'84 Chevy C10
'93 850 GLT NA SOLD
- tjmartin317
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No 2nd 4th or reverse, the cable guides were totally worn and would buckle. The pipe and duct tape is just a brace. It still doesn’t shift perfectly and will need new cables that I think I’m going to either find or fabricate this winter, but it’s worked so far.jmartin919 wrote: ↑05 Nov 2024, 06:28 What was the issue with the shifter cable and what was your fix (PVC pipe)? My shifter on my 2000 S70 seems rough/sticky compared to my 93 850 and I'm wondering if it may be the cable.
2012 Acura TSX Wagon (Iris - Practical Daily)
2000 Volvo S70 (Blue - Manual Beater)
1972 VW Type 3 Squareback (Fargo - Terrible Rustbucket)
2000 Volvo S70 (Blue - Manual Beater)
1972 VW Type 3 Squareback (Fargo - Terrible Rustbucket)
- tjmartin317
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I’ll be calling Volvo later today to get a quote. But I’m glad to have some confirmation that it’s the parts and not the parts installer because holy hell I’ve been questioning my competence these past few axle jobs lol.abscate wrote: ↑04 Nov 2024, 23:40 The circlips are often improperly shaped on aftermarket axles. Replace it with one from an OEM or GKN axle
There is another trick , use heavy grease to center the circlip on the axle when you push it in. You need to hear the click as it engages or it is not seated. The transmission splines are designed of hard steel so thst the axle gets borked , not the transmission.
2012 Acura TSX Wagon (Iris - Practical Daily)
2000 Volvo S70 (Blue - Manual Beater)
1972 VW Type 3 Squareback (Fargo - Terrible Rustbucket)
2000 Volvo S70 (Blue - Manual Beater)
1972 VW Type 3 Squareback (Fargo - Terrible Rustbucket)
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jmartin919
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Oh, I see yours is a manual trans. I have AT.tjmartin317 wrote: ↑05 Nov 2024, 06:52No 2nd 4th or reverse, the cable guides were totally worn and would buckle. The pipe and duct tape is just a brace. It still doesn’t shift perfectly and will need new cables that I think I’m going to either find or fabricate this winter, but it’s worked so far.jmartin919 wrote: ↑05 Nov 2024, 06:28 What was the issue with the shifter cable and what was your fix (PVC pipe)? My shifter on my 2000 S70 seems rough/sticky compared to my 93 850 and I'm wondering if it may be the cable.
'00 S70 GLT SE
'82 MB 380SL
'11 MB E350 Sport
'84 Chevy C10
'93 850 GLT NA SOLD
'82 MB 380SL
'11 MB E350 Sport
'84 Chevy C10
'93 850 GLT NA SOLD
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