2006 XC70 rear sub frame removal and bushing replacement Topic is solved

[Rvolvos]

Please keep us informed on the progress, this is a job I may undertake this summer. Also if you could at some point provide a parts list and cost and time estimate for removal of suspension and drivetrain components. I assume that you are using Volvo parts and replacing bolts and hardware also? Thanks.

Hi Blacklab,
I did not use new hardware, most torque values are pretty low.
I used all Lemforder bushing, 1 Meyle and 1 Delphi being substituted by FCP. Volvo bushing are very expensive and I am hoping to get another 5 years out of the car and not another 17 years
I suggest ordering parts ASAP, parts are mostly sold out and now and then available.
With knowing all the adapters and tools ahead of time, I would reserve 1 day for removing the suspension components and exhaust and only lower sub frame with the rear differential and prop shaft attached. You may have to unbolt the evap pump and charcoal cannister.
1/2 day for removal and installation of the bushings assuming you do the TrailLink bushing and upper control arm bushings only.
1 day for putting everything back
And an alignment afterwards.

As far as pricing, you can check the links in my post.

[TGHepburn]

I am doing the upper control arm bushings and wanted to take a moment to thank the other authors for this thread. It has been very useful.

One suggestion from me is that for the rearward facing bushing I would suggest using a compression sleeve before forcing the bushing into its seat. I tried without and tore the collar on mine a little as it started to give resistance. I then found a short length of pipe that was close to the 40mm bore seat (bit bigger). and used that as a delivery barrel, thus "pre-compressing" slightly.

Also of note for anyone inspecting their bushing to track down a bad rear-end vibration. Very bad vibration at around 85km/h but my bushings looked in-tact which didn't explain the severity of the vibration. When I removed the forward facing bushing (first hole-sawed rubber core) then the hard plastic outer half, I found that the whole bushing had been moving and wore out the plastic sleeve. Problem found!

I have not been able to upload the pictures to go with this post. If I figure it out I'll comment again.

Edit: here are the URLS:
https://www.thomashepburn.ca/wp-content ... scaled.jpg
https://www.thomashepburn.ca/wp-content ... aac903.jpg
https://www.thomashepburn.ca/wp-content ... scaled.jpg

[Rvolvos]

Installing bushing 9 into the knuckle.

https://spareto.com/products/meyle-cont ... 4-710-0009
Was not available at the time from FCP


I forgot to take pictures, but just press out the complete bushing.
And press in the new bushing. Make sure to putt them in the freezer and use silicone spray. And measure the install depth beforehand.

I used the sleeves in the yellow circle. I did this with a large c-clamp I purchased for this job. But it was very cumbersome. I would recommend using the the threaded rod instead.

The Meyle bushing did not held up and is already failing. Fcp has the genuine Volvo bushing back in stock.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... -9200301oe

[abscate]

Installing bushing 9 into the knuckle.

https://spareto.com/products/meyle-cont ... 4-710-0009
Was not available at the time from FCP


I forgot to take pictures, but just press out the complete bushing.
And press in the new bushing. Make sure to putt them in the freezer and use silicone spray. And measure the install depth beforehand.

I used the sleeves in the yellow circle. I did this with a large c-clamp I purchased for this job. But it was very cumbersome. I would recommend using the the threaded rod instead.

The Meyle bushing did not held up and is already failing. Fcp has the genuine Volvo bushing back in stock.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... -9200301oe

2 year life for key suspension parts. Marvelous.