Boot, CV joint, or axle?

[scot850]

My young 02 XC70 owner friend and I just replaced the front wheel bearings on his car. You can replace the inner boot (if you plan to do the outer one as well) without removing the stakes on the inner CV joint on the RH axle. You will have to remove the other end.

The inner end does not have ball bearings. It has 3 wheels attached to a tripod on the outer section of the axle.

To do the wheel bearings is basically the same as removing the axle (we did remove the axle to check the carrier bearing). The carrier earing should be checked. The bearing is the same as used on 850's P80 S/C/V 70's up to about 2002 (C70). It is a 19mm wide x 75mm O/D x 45mm ID bearing. Don't be fooled into using the more easily found 16mm wide bearing as it will not be tight in the support bearing cap.

To get the axle out, we:

1) Removed the RH wheel
2) Removed the brakes (caliper, bracket and rotor as well as the dust shield)
3) Removed the upper end of the swaybar end link
4) Removed the outer tie-rod ball joint
5) Removed the hub bolt
6) Removed the 2 x lower bolts for the strut.
7) Finally removed the carrier bearing bolts (2 off) and carrier cover.

Axle then came out easily.

With practice I think I could not do this in about an hour/side easily.

Neil.

[vtl]

If you want your repair to last, don't use GKN grease that comes in a kit. Not sure why they do it, but that grease is for CV joints, not tripods. Tripod requires a thinner grease, otherwise it suffers from lack of lubrication and dies prematurely. FCP has VW G052186A3 grease, use that. This is what I have in my axles and they are happy. Previously killed two tripods with wrong grease (GKN and Red Line).

[firstv70volvo]

firstv70volvo - That staked area keeps the inner ball bearing carrier in?

Yes, I think they do this for handling the axle before install and during installation to keep the tri-pod end from pulling out of the inner cup, no function once the axle is installed. The tri-pod roller bearings are contained, they won't spill out when the tri-pod end is removed. You'll need to grind off or peen down to replace the boot and also to clean, inspect and repack the inner joint.


Here's a look at the tri-pod with the inner cup removed. You'll need to cut off the old boot, removed the snap ring and tap off the tri-pod from the axle shaft to replace the boot. Same for the outer joint if you replace that boot, you'll have to tap off the outer joint from the shaft, which is held on by an inner c-clip, use brass hammer or punch if you have one.

[lrock]

i just used one of these https://www.ebay.com/itm/185549621909
did it on the car, took 10 seconds

[cn90]

- I have used GKN grease for years, zero issues.
- The tool listed in the thread above...I don't think you need it.
- just follow the link I posted above and will be fine.
- L side: cut the balancer off using angle grinder.
- Use the CV joint puller tool ($20 on eBay) and life is good.
- Much easier to work from the Outer joint. Inner joint: it is a hassle to grind the factory stakes and retake them.

[vtl]

- I have used GKN grease for years, zero issues.

Yeah, but which one? The one I got in the box was listed for CV joints at GKN site. Can't quite remember now, but it may have been listing a separate part number for tripod grease.

Anyways, that would be ultimately OPs call.

[BlackBart]

i just used one of these https://www.ebay.com/itm/185549621909
did it on the car, took 10 seconds

I use that for my hiking boots.......

[BlackBart]

We're leaving soon (no driving) for two weeks to help out kids on the east coast. Car will be parked with no extra strain on these. I do like Luggy's plastic bag and duct tape idea - the slush & slop season is soon approaching.

Oh, EDIT......Should I replace the transmission seal while I'm in there? And the carrier bearing?

[firstv70volvo]

- I have used GKN grease for years, zero issues.
- The tool listed in the thread above...I don't think you need it.
- just follow the link I posted above and will be fine.
- L side: cut the balancer off using angle grinder.
- Use the CV joint puller tool ($20 on eBay) and life is good.
- Much easier to work from the Outer joint. Inner joint: it is a hassle to grind the factory stakes and retake them.

Here's another method when rebooting an axle, not necessarily better or easier. There's no need to cut off the vibration damper and it should not be removed anyway IMO unless damaged. A CV puller isn't really needed especially if you have a bench vise. Both the inner tri-pod and outer CV joint can be removed from the shaft relatively easily using a hammer and drift (preferably brass) and a bench vise or something equivalent to hold the axle. Peening or grinding the staked areas isn't difficult and has to be done to be able to clean, inspect and repack the inner joint, re-staking is optional.
I've used Redline CV-2 grease for multiple axles with very good success for both the inner and outer joints. I contacted the company to make sure it's recommended for the inner tri-pod joint too, it is according to Redline. I know Vtl hasn't had the same success with Redline.

This axle is still going strong, ~65K since reboot. Vise is not clamped onto the vibration damper, just holding the axle in place.

[erikv11]

Carrier bearing is part of the axle, I wouldn't mess with (change) it if you're not having any issues.

Axle seal on a P2 does not actually touch the CV axle shaft, the only reason to change one that isn't leaking is if you want to because you're in there. Of course, you must remove the axle to change it so factor that in to your decision.

I've never had an axle seal leak on a P2 car; until I do I probably won't replace any. On the one hand it's great to know you've got a new seal in there, on the other hand sometimes you have very little time to get a job done, consider are you doing maintenance or restoration, etc. I've got the P2 seals on hand but so far I have had a few P2 axles in and out without changing any seals. P80 seals I would always swap because they actually contact the CV shaft surface.