Not sure what 9995769 is (it might be a faked axle shaft so the drift can slide into it, just a guess), but 9995770 is definitely the seal drift tool.
I will make my own tool and report back later...
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- img20-b.jpg (15.63 KiB) Viewed 854 times
DIY: 2004 V70 2.5T Axle and Seal (110K miles) Volvo 6843112; Corteco 19033885B R side: Volvo 9495018; Corteco 19034
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database »
2004 V70 2.5T Volvo Axle and Seals DIY Fix
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cn90
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Re: DIY: 2004 V70 2.5T Axle and Seal (110K miles) Volvo 6843112; Corteco 19033885B R side: Volvo 9495018; Corteco 19034
Per Volvo dealer, when installing RH axle seal, their techs use...9995769 and 9995770 tools.
Not sure what 9995769 is (it might be a faked axle shaft so the drift can slide into it, just a guess), but 9995770 is definitely the seal drift tool.
I will make my own tool and report back later...
----
Not sure what 9995769 is (it might be a faked axle shaft so the drift can slide into it, just a guess), but 9995770 is definitely the seal drift tool.
I will make my own tool and report back later...
----
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
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cn90
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I do not have this tool (installation tool for RH side, Auto Trans)...but this is what I found on the internet. It appears that the depth of installation is about 4 mm or 5 mm?
Since the seal itself has O.D. of 75 mm and I.D. of 40 mm, I suspect the tool Inner Circle is probably 73 mm (to clear the housing bore) and maybe 46-48 mm (to clear the faked axle shaft)...
Does anyone have this tool lying around and can provide dimensions so we can make it out of wood?
---
Since the seal itself has O.D. of 75 mm and I.D. of 40 mm, I suspect the tool Inner Circle is probably 73 mm (to clear the housing bore) and maybe 46-48 mm (to clear the faked axle shaft)...
Does anyone have this tool lying around and can provide dimensions so we can make it out of wood?
---
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cn90
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Update on my 2006 S60 with brand-new axle seal leaking on the R side after 1000 miles of installation!
What happened was: the garter spring came loose!!!
The video below (by a Mercedes tech) is a must-watch using Red Tacky Grease.
I learned my lesson. From now on, every seal will get this Red Tacky Grease treatment lol...
On a related note: Corteco has a business relationship with NOK (a Japanese company).
This now makes sense bc the Aisin trans comes from Japan, so they naturally use a Japanese company for seals.
In this case it was NOK.
This is why when you buy this particular Volvo "Genuine" seal, the box says "made in Japan".
You would think this particular Corteco seal is made in Germany? No, they rebox it by putting NOK inside the Corteco box.
Now, you know why when you buy this Corteco seal, you basically buy NOK, which was exactly what Aisin used at factory.
It is virtually identical to the factory seal.
What happened was: the garter spring came loose!!!
The video below (by a Mercedes tech) is a must-watch using Red Tacky Grease.
I learned my lesson. From now on, every seal will get this Red Tacky Grease treatment lol...
On a related note: Corteco has a business relationship with NOK (a Japanese company).
This now makes sense bc the Aisin trans comes from Japan, so they naturally use a Japanese company for seals.
In this case it was NOK.
This is why when you buy this particular Volvo "Genuine" seal, the box says "made in Japan".
You would think this particular Corteco seal is made in Germany? No, they rebox it by putting NOK inside the Corteco box.
Now, you know why when you buy this Corteco seal, you basically buy NOK, which was exactly what Aisin used at factory.
It is virtually identical to the factory seal.
Last edited by cn90 on 19 Dec 2024, 07:35, edited 2 times in total.
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
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cn90
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Update on the 2006 S60 with 106K miles...the Trans seal (Corteco) that I installed a few months (1,000 miles) ago.
I did not have the installation tool and installed it deeper than factory.
It started leaking after 500-1,000 miles, even when parked on the driveway. It turned out that the "deeper than factory" installation
was not so much an issue.
The main problem: the garter spring came loose during that installation!
See the video posted above by the Mercedes mechanic in the thread above!
The trick: use Red Tacky grass to hold the garter spring in place during installation.
Someone has the installation tool and sent me a photo.
You can see the depth of installation is about 4.5 to 5.0 mm deep at factory.
NOTE: in a previous post, I mentioned that it is 1000x easier to disconnect the strut 2 bolts at the kunckle.
However, the strut can extend down another 1 cm or so and can touch the CV Boot.
So, I hand-tightened the spring compressor before disconnecting the 2 bolts: this helps hold the spring a tiny bit up to avoid
damaging the CV Boot. You still need to cover the CV Boot with cardboard anyway to prevent damage to it.
1. A different car (2007 S60) had the seal installed correctly at 5 mm ---> no ATF leak.
I cut a few pieces of wood with different depths as a gauge...
---
* Please see attached pdf document by Corteco-NOK on how to install new seal properly and pitfalls.
Examples:
---
---
---
2. Tool ideas:
* Electrical conduit washer is a perfect fit (Menards hardware has it).
* PVC coupler looks good too.
But for both of these items, you need to control the depth of installation. For the washer, use a piece of wood and hammer it in, the depth is ~ 5 mm. The PVC coupler: drill holes so you can only go to 5 mm, then use drill bits or sth similar (coat hanger wire through the holes) to stop the installation at 5 mm.
* Wood.
3. I decided to do it the hard way so I can learn making seal tool using wood.
I used the 2 x 4 wood and made the tool as shown.
As long as you cut the wood at 73 mm, it will fit in that tight space bc of the indentation on the housing as shown.
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---
---
---
---
---
If you have the door lock hole saw as shown, it makes cutting the I.D. side easier. For the O.D., I did not have a hole saw big enough, so I cut it by hand such that it is ~ 73 mm, which fits perfectly bc it is 2 mm smaller than the bore side (75 mm).
Remember that the tool needs to exert force roughly about 1 mm INWARD from the edge of the seal. This is the vertical part of the metal cup (which is coated in rubber).
4. This 2006 S60: you can see that I installed it too deep at ~ 8-9 mm. But that was not the problem. The problem was: the garter spring came loose during installation bc of hammering.
5. New Corteco seal + Red Tacky grease to help hold the garter spring in place + Wood Tool as shown. Don't forget to oil the sealing
lip before installation.
You can see the seal sits perfectly square by using this tool!
In a perfect world, you use a press to push it in, but there is no place to do it.
So the alternative is hammering it in, but the key thing is: use only enough force to tap it in to prevent dislodging the garter spring
(which already had the Red Tacky Grease treatment anyway).
Every minute spent making this wood tool is worth it.
---
---
---
---
I have installed so many seals, but this is the first time the garter spring came loose. The problem: this factory Corteco seal is made
a bit wider than it should be. It is a very tight fit that requires some serious hammering (especially when lying on garage floor with
limited clearance), which can create vibration and thus dislodges the garter spring.
Seal is tricky business:
- Too small (such as 1/10 mm smaller in diameter): the fit may be loose (such as front cam seal). In this case if front cam seal, I usually
add RTV sealant on the outer side of the seal.
- Too large (such as 1/10 mm larger in diameter)...it requires some serious hammering to seat it.
This time, even with the perfect Wood Tool, I hammered it in slowly.
Don't forget to check and add ATF, you will need to add some 200 mL of lost fluid. There is a way to check ATF level with engine
OFF and COLD: I posted the trick in this forum...basically, as long as ATF plevel is a tiny bit above the "Hot" marking (engine OFF and
COLD), then it is fine.
PS: next up: making a tool for the L axle seal...a future project.
From now on, I will try to make the tool for most new seals. The 2 x 4 wood can be had for free at construction site, or hardware store
(very cheap). Plus, wood does not cause damage to the bore or shaft side bc it is softer than metal.
I did not have the installation tool and installed it deeper than factory.
It started leaking after 500-1,000 miles, even when parked on the driveway. It turned out that the "deeper than factory" installation
was not so much an issue.
The main problem: the garter spring came loose during that installation!
See the video posted above by the Mercedes mechanic in the thread above!
The trick: use Red Tacky grass to hold the garter spring in place during installation.
Someone has the installation tool and sent me a photo.
You can see the depth of installation is about 4.5 to 5.0 mm deep at factory.
NOTE: in a previous post, I mentioned that it is 1000x easier to disconnect the strut 2 bolts at the kunckle.
However, the strut can extend down another 1 cm or so and can touch the CV Boot.
So, I hand-tightened the spring compressor before disconnecting the 2 bolts: this helps hold the spring a tiny bit up to avoid
damaging the CV Boot. You still need to cover the CV Boot with cardboard anyway to prevent damage to it.
1. A different car (2007 S60) had the seal installed correctly at 5 mm ---> no ATF leak.
I cut a few pieces of wood with different depths as a gauge...
---
- Volvo-S60-Axle-Seal-01.jpg (91.56 KiB) Viewed 663 times
* Please see attached pdf document by Corteco-NOK on how to install new seal properly and pitfalls.
Examples:
---
- Volvo-S60-Axle-Seal-02.jpg (98.75 KiB) Viewed 663 times
2. Tool ideas:
* Electrical conduit washer is a perfect fit (Menards hardware has it).
* PVC coupler looks good too.
But for both of these items, you need to control the depth of installation. For the washer, use a piece of wood and hammer it in, the depth is ~ 5 mm. The PVC coupler: drill holes so you can only go to 5 mm, then use drill bits or sth similar (coat hanger wire through the holes) to stop the installation at 5 mm.
* Wood.
3. I decided to do it the hard way so I can learn making seal tool using wood.
I used the 2 x 4 wood and made the tool as shown.
As long as you cut the wood at 73 mm, it will fit in that tight space bc of the indentation on the housing as shown.
---
- Volvo-S60-Axle-Seal-04.jpg (53.84 KiB) Viewed 663 times
- Volvo-S60-Axle-Seal-05.jpg (100 KiB) Viewed 663 times
- Volvo-S60-Axle-Seal-06.jpg (81.53 KiB) Viewed 663 times
- Volvo-S60-Axle-Seal-07.jpg (113.74 KiB) Viewed 663 times
If you have the door lock hole saw as shown, it makes cutting the I.D. side easier. For the O.D., I did not have a hole saw big enough, so I cut it by hand such that it is ~ 73 mm, which fits perfectly bc it is 2 mm smaller than the bore side (75 mm).
Remember that the tool needs to exert force roughly about 1 mm INWARD from the edge of the seal. This is the vertical part of the metal cup (which is coated in rubber).
4. This 2006 S60: you can see that I installed it too deep at ~ 8-9 mm. But that was not the problem. The problem was: the garter spring came loose during installation bc of hammering.
5. New Corteco seal + Red Tacky grease to help hold the garter spring in place + Wood Tool as shown. Don't forget to oil the sealing
lip before installation.
You can see the seal sits perfectly square by using this tool!
In a perfect world, you use a press to push it in, but there is no place to do it.
So the alternative is hammering it in, but the key thing is: use only enough force to tap it in to prevent dislodging the garter spring
(which already had the Red Tacky Grease treatment anyway).
Every minute spent making this wood tool is worth it.
---
I have installed so many seals, but this is the first time the garter spring came loose. The problem: this factory Corteco seal is made
a bit wider than it should be. It is a very tight fit that requires some serious hammering (especially when lying on garage floor with
limited clearance), which can create vibration and thus dislodges the garter spring.
Seal is tricky business:
- Too small (such as 1/10 mm smaller in diameter): the fit may be loose (such as front cam seal). In this case if front cam seal, I usually
add RTV sealant on the outer side of the seal.
- Too large (such as 1/10 mm larger in diameter)...it requires some serious hammering to seat it.
This time, even with the perfect Wood Tool, I hammered it in slowly.
Don't forget to check and add ATF, you will need to add some 200 mL of lost fluid. There is a way to check ATF level with engine
OFF and COLD: I posted the trick in this forum...basically, as long as ATF plevel is a tiny bit above the "Hot" marking (engine OFF and
COLD), then it is fine.
PS: next up: making a tool for the L axle seal...a future project.
From now on, I will try to make the tool for most new seals. The 2 x 4 wood can be had for free at construction site, or hardware store
(very cheap). Plus, wood does not cause damage to the bore or shaft side bc it is softer than metal.
- Attachments
-
OilSeals-Handling_and_Installation_Guide.pdf- (962.11 KiB) Downloaded 120 times
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
-
cn90
- Posts: 8249
- Joined: 31 March 2010
- Year and Model: 2004 V70 2.5T
- Location: Omaha NE
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For the LEFT side axle seal, it is somewhat interesting...
Attached is the photo of a P2 S60 seal that was only 2 weeks old, it was leaking so I replaced it a few years ago.
Not sure what the cause of the leak was but you can see the design:
- It has a thicker rubber edge (than other seal) around the metal cup.
- The metal ring is on the inner side of this rubber seal.
- You can see on the side that I hammered on the metal ring: it sunk a bit 1 mm deeper then the rubber ring.
- I just made the installation tool for the LEFT side, dimensions as shown.
For this particlar seal with O.D. of 63 mm, it is important for the tool to press on the very Outer edge of the rubber.
So, in this case, the Outer Ring of the tool is about 60 mm to 61 mm.
- Anyway, seal installation is tricky business with so many different designs, pitfalls and you only learn it the hard way...
---
---
---
Attached is the photo of a P2 S60 seal that was only 2 weeks old, it was leaking so I replaced it a few years ago.
Not sure what the cause of the leak was but you can see the design:
- It has a thicker rubber edge (than other seal) around the metal cup.
- The metal ring is on the inner side of this rubber seal.
- You can see on the side that I hammered on the metal ring: it sunk a bit 1 mm deeper then the rubber ring.
- I just made the installation tool for the LEFT side, dimensions as shown.
For this particlar seal with O.D. of 63 mm, it is important for the tool to press on the very Outer edge of the rubber.
So, in this case, the Outer Ring of the tool is about 60 mm to 61 mm.
- Anyway, seal installation is tricky business with so many different designs, pitfalls and you only learn it the hard way...
---
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
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cn90
- Posts: 8249
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Another Update, this time it is the 2007 S60 with 125K miles...
I previouly redid the R seal in 2006 S60 with 106K miles in 2024.
The 2007 S60 LEFT seal leaking, I am becoming the seal expert lol.
I installed new Axle seals for the 2007 S60 in 2022 (3 yrs and 10K miles ago).
NOTE:
1. ATF leak at bottom of Transmission:
---
2. Note the garter spring came off during installation in 2022:
---
3. Note the 3 year-old seal with edge folding over. The fold-over section is between 10:00 and 2:00, so only leaks
ATF when driving.
---
4. New Seal, Wood Tool and Red Tacky grease (to be applied on the garter spring).
Even so, the brand-new seal folded over and thus destroyed, simply bc the only way to remove the brand-new seal is
to drill a hole for the sheet metal screw!
---
5. Luckily, I had another seal lying around.
- I used a piece of plastic. Do NOT use metal, you will regret bc if you score the metal sealing surface on the cup side
(the trans side), it WILL leak.
- So, I used the empty Clorox Disinfecting Plastic Container.
- You can use 1 piece or 2 pieces at opposite sides.
- Make sure you wet the plastic piece with ATF, go around slowly to be sure the seal lip is in correct place, it is very tight.
- To pull it out, do NOT yank it. Instead, rotate it around the sealing surface and slowly pull it out as you rotate it around
the seal.
---
Lastly:
1. Double-check, triple-check to be sure the seal lip is in the correct place.
2. Don't forget to add some ATF. In my experience doing the seal, some ATF will leak out during the job.
All you need is about 200 mL of ATF added at the end, when everything is buttoned up.
I previouly redid the R seal in 2006 S60 with 106K miles in 2024.
The 2007 S60 LEFT seal leaking, I am becoming the seal expert lol.
I installed new Axle seals for the 2007 S60 in 2022 (3 yrs and 10K miles ago).
NOTE:
1. ATF leak at bottom of Transmission:
2. Note the garter spring came off during installation in 2022:
3. Note the 3 year-old seal with edge folding over. The fold-over section is between 10:00 and 2:00, so only leaks
ATF when driving.
4. New Seal, Wood Tool and Red Tacky grease (to be applied on the garter spring).
Even so, the brand-new seal folded over and thus destroyed, simply bc the only way to remove the brand-new seal is
to drill a hole for the sheet metal screw!
5. Luckily, I had another seal lying around.
- I used a piece of plastic. Do NOT use metal, you will regret bc if you score the metal sealing surface on the cup side
(the trans side), it WILL leak.
- So, I used the empty Clorox Disinfecting Plastic Container.
- You can use 1 piece or 2 pieces at opposite sides.
- Make sure you wet the plastic piece with ATF, go around slowly to be sure the seal lip is in correct place, it is very tight.
- To pull it out, do NOT yank it. Instead, rotate it around the sealing surface and slowly pull it out as you rotate it around
the seal.
Lastly:
1. Double-check, triple-check to be sure the seal lip is in the correct place.
2. Don't forget to add some ATF. In my experience doing the seal, some ATF will leak out during the job.
All you need is about 200 mL of ATF added at the end, when everything is buttoned up.
Last edited by cn90 on 24 Sep 2025, 21:03, edited 1 time in total.
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
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cn90
- Posts: 8249
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- The idea of using sleeve during seal installation is not new.
The sleeve is normally used in a case of splines (such as front crank seal) to avoid damage to the seal lip. However,
most ppl don't have a sleeve tool, so they use black electrical tape to wrap the splines.
- I just downloaded a random photo from the Internet to illustrate the use of sleeve. As the seal is driven in (Green arrow), the seal lip has a tendency to fold over (Red arrow) but this has to do with a particular setup. If the seal lip is tight (such as the I.D. of the seal is a bit smaller than it should be), then the risk of foldover is higher, even if you lubricate with ATF etc.
- In any case, by using some sleeve tool made from plastic as mentioned above, you avoid seal lip folding over. Just go slow with gentle tap, and keep checking the seal geometry using the plastic sleeve tool (by rotating the tool around 360 degrees) as you drive the seal in, you should be fine...
- Oil seal can be "rocket science" lol...
---
The sleeve is normally used in a case of splines (such as front crank seal) to avoid damage to the seal lip. However,
most ppl don't have a sleeve tool, so they use black electrical tape to wrap the splines.
- I just downloaded a random photo from the Internet to illustrate the use of sleeve. As the seal is driven in (Green arrow), the seal lip has a tendency to fold over (Red arrow) but this has to do with a particular setup. If the seal lip is tight (such as the I.D. of the seal is a bit smaller than it should be), then the risk of foldover is higher, even if you lubricate with ATF etc.
- In any case, by using some sleeve tool made from plastic as mentioned above, you avoid seal lip folding over. Just go slow with gentle tap, and keep checking the seal geometry using the plastic sleeve tool (by rotating the tool around 360 degrees) as you drive the seal in, you should be fine...
- Oil seal can be "rocket science" lol...
---
- Seal.jpg (32.99 KiB) Viewed 368 times
Last edited by cn90 on 24 Sep 2025, 18:49, edited 1 time in total.
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
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erikv11
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Thanks for the updates.
For me, one take-home message from this thread is to just not touch these P2 axle seals if they are not leaking.
Stark difference from the P80 cars where the removal/install is trivial and it's good practice to swap the seals frequently.
I've been doing a lot of axle swaps on my three P2 cars and even though all are at or above 200k miles, they have still never needed any axle seals replaced. An advantage of the P2 design is that the axle shaft doesn't even touch the axle seal, giving another reason to not be overly concerned with the seal when doing axle removal/install work.
For me, one take-home message from this thread is to just not touch these P2 axle seals if they are not leaking.
Stark difference from the P80 cars where the removal/install is trivial and it's good practice to swap the seals frequently.
I've been doing a lot of axle swaps on my three P2 cars and even though all are at or above 200k miles, they have still never needed any axle seals replaced. An advantage of the P2 design is that the axle shaft doesn't even touch the axle seal, giving another reason to not be overly concerned with the seal when doing axle removal/install work.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
153kgone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
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