Cannot get the front left driver axle back IN to the transmission all the way. Topic is solved

[GreenMagicMan]

Hi all!

V50 AWD 2005 T5 approx 150K. Unknown service history.

I cannot get the axle all the way back in.
To remove the original one, I had to really hammer in the pry bar to get enough space to start really prying between the axle and the trans to pop it out.
Took some effort to get replacement back in. Felt like it sort of might have 'popped' back in ... but there's a much larger gap than before. I can very easily slide my pry bar tool all the way in between Trans and Axle 'cup'. I'm talking like a probably 3/8" gap (I could go measure it if helpful). When I pulled the axle it was just about snug all the way to the transmission with no gap.

I've tried pounding with hammer and sledge on the outer CV joint splines while at same time compressing the 'cup' inner joint to try to transfer the force to force the axle in (the rest of the way). Used a block of wood to protect the splines later on as the beatings continued (with more force at that point). One can pretty much see the force is not transferring to the inners splined part of the axle correctly and it stubbornly stays out 3/8".

Any tips? What do I do?? I can try to pull it back out with my hands and it's in there solid. The circlip on this Carquest / GSP was very large / wide diameter - good for springing into the recess in Trans but harder to work with.

Do I reassemble as is? Would cornering on the harder right turn force that in - if in fact it's still farther out of where it really has to be? Is that bananas?


I have replaced so many darn things on this car in 1.5 years of owning.

Latest problem: inner 'tripod' joint driver front axle slop and massive vibrations accelerating at 35mph to 80mph. Smooth if no throttle or light throttle in that range, mostly smooth over 80mph and below 35/40 mph.

Anyway, never pulled an axle in my life and been intimidated.
Got it out within 40 min of starting job using a nail puller pry bar from a tip I saw on a video.

Have a 'Carquest' (Adv. Auto) replacement axle with GSP (yuck) boots on it. Clearly a used axle / rebuilt.

Thanks all for suggestions / help!

.......What I've done in a year and half of owning this car:
- both lower control arms with new lower ball joints.
- passenger strut / spring assembly (new Mazda 3 part)
- front driver wheel bearing
- driver and passenger sway bar end links. Both broke and replaced
- my favorite - and I should have dumped the car: replaced power steering rack w low mileage unit and it's inner tie rods. Whole subframe out for that peach.
- replaced upper engine mount
- replaced broken mirror(s)

At least the engine and transmission have been rock solid.

[GreenMagicMan]

Pics:

[GreenMagicMan]

Pictures of the joint

[Krons]

Some have mentioned transferring over the OEM circlip. Maybe measure width first before tackling that.

[GreenMagicMan]

Thanks! I started reading that a little online tonight too.
I also read to make sure the Circlip opening is oriented down (6 O'clock position) and use some grease to hold it in that orientation.
Makes sense, wish I had read that earlier today in the daylight. Will I guess pry it out tomorrow morning, and consider moving over the original Circlip, and at least orienting the clip opening downward with some high temp grease I have.

[GreenMagicMan]

I moved over there original circlip. no go.
I reduced it's size, oriented the opening up or down, used grease to hold it in, nothing makes that axle go in.

THEN I started frantically removing even more parts, the knuckle then the strut... for more direct access.
I was then trying straighter force in - didn't work, and then was going to mount the knuckle back onto the axle and pound the knuckle at the axle at the transmission... and / or use it like a slide hammer... when I found out the end of axle got peened / damaged with the beatings and I have to chase / clean the splines with a metal file to even get the knuckle back on...

So in other words... (help!)

[precisionguesswork]

Try rotating the shaft in small increments as you try to push it in. Put a mark somewhere you can see and think of it like the face of a clock and workh your way around the clock.

[crazycat]

Did you get his fixed? Please update. I had to slam mine in pretty hard on an '05 s40. Also, did you put the new and old part side by side to make sure they are EXACTY identical?

[GreenMagicMan]

Update:
None, there is no update.
3 axles tried to get in there. None fit tight. Super annoying.
I just got a used 70K axle off a guaranteed AWD V50 from ErieVoVo.

And... the 3rd Axle is jammed in there - still too far away from transmission. And with my pry bar in 14F weather it wouldn't budge.
My theory is the local Advanced Auto - middle of nowhere - just 'happened' to have 2 'AWD' V50 driver axles in stock. I think not. And one day shipping for axle #3 "guaranteed" and 'better part' to fit. That acted exactly the same as axle #1 and #2.
So since #3 is stuck in car and not the right fit, I cannot attempt the used ErieVoVo part yet.

I hate this car. I just bought a 2010 XC70 a week ago. Much better for my needs. This V50 sits gutted on one side - exactly where it's been for a month blocking the approach to the house. Great stuff.
I'm going to sell this car off as soon as it's reassembled with a complete published lists of it's needs and faults and get what I can for it, and then pretend I never owned it. Biggest headache of my life - and that's saying something because my 1988 Toyota Supra turbo was a complete P.O.S.

[scot850]

Have you any way of measuring the position inside the trans where the circlip fits in terms of depth from the front of the casing?

Then compare with the OE axle to the cup rear and the aftermarket one. You may find the difference is there and what you have is the axle is seated correctly but the gap is just larger due to a difference in the axles.

Neil.