Volvo v70 I 1999 engine turns off when warm

[VolvoV70I]

The vehicle starts normally when it is cold and when it warms up it starts to jerk with a popping exhaust and stalls. Then it won't start at first. It only starts after several hours when it is cold again.

I have already changed the cooling temperature sensor. But unfortunately that didn't help.

[scot850]

When you changed the coolant sensor, what brand did you use? Normally we only recommend Volvo OE for P80's as it seems to be one of the critical parts the car only likes. I think in Europe you may be able to access the OE supplier parts. I think Misha said they are called Vernet.

The other thing to try is a fuel pump relay. They like to get temperamental with age and heat. You can try using a jumper wire to see if it makes a difference. Also check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail. For a 99 above 50 psi is good. -98 have a lower pressure at 43 psi.

If not, then you are looking at things like the ignition switch (electrical part, but I don't think in this case it is an issue), then cam and crank position sensors are then the next likely suspects.

Neil.

[VolvoV70I]

Hello Neil,

Many thanks for the quick response.

I have the Hella brand coolant temperature sensor 6PT 009 107-281.

The fuel pressure is around 36 PSI (2.5 bar). Is this perhaps too low?

There are also other parts that I have replaced and these are not original Volvo or Bosch. I bought these from Skandix at the time. Could these also have an influence on this error?

- Fuel pump relay Skandix
- Sensor, intake manifold intake air temperature Skandix
- Spark plugs NGK
- Rotor
- Ignition cable NGK
- Sensor, throttle valve position Magnetti Marelli
- Pulse generator, camshaft Skandix
- Idle speed regulator

[abscate]

Too low for ME7 management system. Fuel
Pressure regulation changed in 1999 and the pressure has to be up near 50 psi.

Furl pump relay and pump are suspect.

[Clemens]

Alot of the Skandix parts that are non OE/OEM are cheap parts from random suppliers. Neware what you buy. As a German, you could always try to source parts from Fahrzeugteile Albert, he knows what works and what doesn't.

[scot850]

Both the guys above make good points. I don't use Skandix often as the shipping to North America is ridiculous. Generally speaking I don't have an issue with the parts quality they use. With lots of OE parts no longer available from Volvo, they have tried to find alternates. Sometimes these are fine, but, as we have found over the years parts from all well know suppliers can sometimes just not work.

Parts that can be problematic for these cars include:

1) Coolant temp sensor - The aftermarket brands (so not OE Volvo or OEM - Vernet?) are good. Others may or may not work as their tolerances may not be good enough or they plain fail after a short time.
2) Ignition parts - Cables (OE or OEM Bougicord). I have a friend with NGK spark plug cables on a 98 NA. Your car being a 99 should not have these, but you mention them. Are you sure your car is not a 98? Same with the rotor/cap for the distributor. OE or Bosch (but be careful there are a lot of copy 'Bosch' parts out there). Again you list a rotor. Distributor was dropped in 99 Model year, certainly in North America with a change in electronics and move to coils on the individual spark plugs.
3) Spark plugs - While I prefer the OE correct parts, Bosch equivalent are usually OK and I and others have used NGK with out issues.
4) Sensors - Cam/crank position sensors. OE only. I do not know the OEM suppliers for these parts but others may.
5) Fuel pump relay - Volvo only. Do NOT use KAE branded part.
6) Cylinder head gaskets and valve seals - Volvo OE only.

These are my opinions on parts, but also based on many years of reading on here and personal experiences. Others may disagree and this can often bring up conflicting responses, but that is ok. The more we learn the better. I think the issue with aftermarket parts is they are not all bad, but they can be variable enough in manufacturing quality to either not work well or fail early.

Again, the 36 psi that Abscate mentions is way too low for a 99 car to run on. 50+ psi is needed. 36 psi is on the marginal side for the -98 cars running with distributors and rotors. I may have read this wrong, you may have meant brake rotors and I may have mis-understood so if that is the case, apologies.

Neil.

[VolvoV70I]

Hello everyone,

Thank you for the quick response.

I don't mean the brake rotors but the part in the picture.

According to the vehicle registration document, the year of manufacture is 1999.

If I enter the VIN at Skandix, 1999 is also displayed.

The first thing I'll do is get the following cooling temperature sensor from CALORSTAT by Vernet.

https://www.autodoc.de/calorstat-by-ver ... DY6se3PUpn

If the problem is the low fuel pressure, then how does it relate to the fact that the Volvo starts solidly when it's cold and then stalls and then won't start again when it reaches operating temperature?

[xanthefin]

For 10 Valve thats more like what i have pressure in my 850. But yes that rotor is kaput.


Dont take this as tip to replace part just as next but one warm engine possible failures are injectors too in rare cases being as solenoid but it shouldnt be all of them at once.. when it starts "dying" have you tested wiggle connectors around places?

Camshaft sensor is one for me which prevented car start fully if i unplugged it.

Edit: One extra maybe weird one is.. check voltage on some random fuse when its running does it start dropping much when its "dying". One sign somewhere some bad electronics ruining fun for everyone example who doesnt like a heat.

[scot850]

Ok, this is where different markets come into play. We never got the 10 valve engine here in the V/S 70 P80's. So this engine is for us an unknown. However for the guys here, this is a link to that engine specs:

https://mymotorlist.com/engines/volvo/b5252s/

We got 10 valve 850's in Canada, but I believe they were never sold in the US as I understand.

Also we did not get distributor engines after 1998.

So in your car's case, it is likely the same spec as a 98 car with 10V and so the lower 43 psi operating fuel pressure.

I would still look at the fuel pump relay, injector relay on the front above the radiator, especially for broken wires. Fuel pressure is still low.

Neil.

[VolvoV70I]

Hello,

I bridged the fuel pump relay today (pin 15/87) but the problem still exists. So the problem is not with the relay. Next I'll look at the pump.

I know that the pump was replaced by the previous owner.

The following pump from Skandix was used, which is also not an original from Bosch.

"With this repair kit you can convert from a Bosch pump to a Walbro pump."

https://www.skandix.de/de/fahrzeug-teil ... z/1010999/

Maybe I should use a Bosch one again here?

Best regards