P80 P2 Subframe Bushing installation with pictures 3507923

[crasbe]

(Excuse the dog hair)

I used threaded rod, which was about 200mm long. You can substract 20mm for the two nuts and I think there was some additional length.
160mm might work, but you can probably use 1/2" threaded rod as well when you take additional care about the alignment.

[rombar]

Hi everyone, I'm new here. Just wanted to thank you both @Blacklab467 and @crasbe for your work guys! I used a mix of both solutions -> fat allen key between subframe and frame, jack to push up and 3D printed tool to make the job easy and protect the bushing. All 4 bushings were fitted super fast. It was actually harder to get old ones off. Thanks guys you're my heroes of the day (week maybe!)

[BlackBart]

Funny - I was just looking up this fantastic write-up by Blacklab to assemble tools and things to start this.

[BlackBart]

Order of work question -

If replacing the motor mounts at the same time, which should happen first?

[BlackBart]

It looks like for the sway bar, you're supporting the engine either with one of those truss lift bars from above or with a wood plank under the pan on a jack, then lowering the subframe to the rear for clearance. This includes loosening the motor mounts and drag link underneath, as well as disconnecting the steering rack so the SF will drop.

So in that scenario, you're doing all that, changing motor mounts, changing the REAR subframe bushings, lifting it back up with a second floor jack and reattaching, seating the rear subframe bushings, then lowering the front of the SF enough to access the front bushings.

whew!

[Blacklab467]

Order of work question -

If replacing the motor mounts at the same time, which should happen first?

Do them at the same time, for example do the rear one and the passenger side while you've got the rear subframe dropped. Then do the front and upper one and transmission torque mount while you're doing the front ones. Support the engine with a jack on the oilpan. The engine and subframe doesn't have to drop very far to change any of these parts, at most about 2 inches for the rear engine mount. It'll all become pretty obvious once you get in there. The only caution I would offer is try to minimize the amount you drop the subframe in the vicinity of the steering shaft coupler where it attaches to the rack if you're not going to disconnect it. It is not necessary to disconnect the steering coupler for this job.

[crasbe]

Hi everyone, I'm new here. Just wanted to thank you both @Blacklab467 and @crasbe for your work guys! I used a mix of both solutions -> fat allen key between subframe and frame, jack to push up and 3D printed tool to make the job easy and protect the bushing. All 4 bushings were fitted super fast. It was actually harder to get old ones off. Thanks guys you're my heroes of the day (week maybe!)
IMG_8522.jpgIMG_8523.jpg

Thank you for the feedback and nice words. I like your method!
Reading stories like this really makes it worth publishing these tools, I was afraid that nobody would have a use for it

[volvolugnut]

Just thinking what to use as a formed block since I do not have 3D printer. I think a hardwood block could be carved with a router to the required shape.
Can you publish dimensions?
volvolugnut

[crasbe]

Perhaps you can find a volunteer from the US to print you the tool. Shipping it from Germany is quite expensive unfortunately.
But here you have the relevant dimensions:

Screenshot 2025-07-01 231308.png (245.34 KiB) Viewed 1199 times

Screenshot 2025-07-01 231259.png (145.14 KiB) Viewed 1199 times

[BlackBart]

Special bushing press.jpg
I used the washer from the first bushing and turned it upside down and glued some top strut nuts on it to make an installation tool and a bushing bolt to fully seat the bushing.

I’m not seeing any steel washer to use. Are those on the fronts and I started with the backs?