I will keep my car...now, suspension questions.

[AlanS]

Well, I have decided to work on my 2006 XC70 with 135K miles rather than getting a 'new' car. The numbers just didn't work for me. The main issue in my car is suspension. The rear creaks and squeaks, while the whole car doesn't take bumps well anymore. Questions: (1). Do I need to change the springs? Ride height is the same all around. (2) FCP offers several shock brands. I really just want the ride I had 5 years ago. Not interested in a 'stiffer' ride... (3) It will need bushing work, as it clunks front and rear. So, I figure new control arms. The rear has so many bushings...can get expensive. If I change the shocks/struts and control arms, Do I have to remove them again if I decide to change bushings in the rear? Trying to divide the work in time groups...at 74, I don't have the strength or patience for a full, complete take off and on. Your thoughts?

[scot850]

The rear suspension takes a bit of work to replace the rear shocks on an XC70. Blacklab247 did a write up and was kind enough to help my young XC70 owning friend and I through the process. It is worth a read to prepare yourself. There is a bushing on the rear trailing arm that is a challenge to replace. There was someone who made up a cheap tool for installing the bush rather than the 4 piece $1000 CDN Volvo tool.

Rear ant-sway bar links and bushes are not too terrible depending on levels of corrosion.

As to springs. You have to remove fronts and rears to replace the shocks on an XC, so it may be worth considering they are known to break. We had one go on the rear of our 06 at around your car's mileage. Unfortunately our car has the dreaded 4-C suspension and the shocks are around $1000-1100 CDN/corner from Volvo. Hopefully you have the regular ones.

At the front the same goes. Upper spring seat bushes, struts, springs and spring seats and isolators. Lower control arms. Check the top side of the rear bush when the wheel is removed for cracking. Ig they are not cracked, leave alone. If they are replace. They are much easier to replace when the strut is out.

Check the anti-sway bar bushes and end link ball joints for wear. Also check the treeing inner and outer tie-rods for wear.

Doing this work makes a huge difference on an XC70 as we found, and with many managing over 250,000 miles and more, it makes more sense to keep what you know running and just maintain it.

Good Luck!

Neil.

[abscate]

Alan, Robert Spinner is coming to Long Island in August , maybe it’s worth a conversation ? At $75 an hour you can get help knocking that stuff off, if he does P2s

[br0dy519]

Sidetracking… is spring replacement on a NA 2.4 S60 a PITA? The rear shocks were a breeze and fall out through the bottom with little to no issue. I saw something about using the factory jack to assist- is this an XC only thing ?

[vtl]

Sidetracking… is spring replacement on a NA 2.4 S60 a PITA? The rear shocks were a breeze and fall out through the bottom with little to no issue. I saw something about using the factory jack to assist- is this an XC only thing ?

Need an internal spring compressor. I used this one, and it wanted to kill me: www.amazon.com/ABN-Spring-Compressor-Co ... B07JKDCZV5

For XC70 all you need is this style of compressor: www.amazon.com/Punmew-Compressor-Macphe ... B0CZ3RS9YW Front or rear, replacement is a breeze.

[MoVolvos]

Well, I have decided to work on my 2006 XC70 with 135K miles rather than getting a 'new' car. The numbers just didn't work for me. The main issue in my car is suspension. The rear creaks and squeaks, while the whole car doesn't take bumps well anymore. Questions: (1). Do I need to change the springs? Ride height is the same all around. (2) FCP offers several shock brands. I really just want the ride I had 5 years ago. Not interested in a 'stiffer' ride... (3) It will need bushing work, as it clunks front and rear. So, I figure new control arms. The rear has so many bushings...can get expensive. If I change the shocks/struts and control arms, Do I have to remove them again if I decide to change bushings in the rear? Trying to divide the work in time groups...at 74, I don't have the strength or patience for a full, complete take off and on. Your thoughts?

.
Whatever you do don't go all out at once. Check the quality of the ride and control after each repair to see how much improvement there is before throwing more money, time and energy potentially with little change.

1) Get all 4 off the ground and do a shake down
2) Check all engine mounts.
3) Start with front struts and any obvious bushings, links and or control arms. Always do in pairs.
4) Check subframe bushings and install inserts and subframe ring.
5) Rear suspension is next

Use these for ease of installation and warranty. Read recently a member here or another forum had these front units on their car and thought they were good compared with other brands on their other Volvo.

2006 Volvo XC70 Front Driver & Passenger Side 2 Piece Strut & Spring Assembly Set TRQ SCA57268
https://www.1aauto.com/volvo-v70-xc70-f ... 58890/2006
.
These 3 should help firm things up which will help with other bushing diagnosis.

Subframe O-Ring (Addresses sub-frame knocking noise)
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/8283/Su ... vo-8638585
Upper Engine Stabilizer Poly Bushing Kit
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/5034/Up ... 283,P21613
IPD Poly Front Subframe Bushing Insert Kit
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/8969/IP ... 283,P21613
.
2006 Volvo XC70 Rear Driver & Passenger Side 2 Piece Strut & Spring Assembly Set
https://www.1aauto.com/volvo-v70-xc70-r ... 08201/2006
.

[Blacklab467]

Well, I have decided to work on my 2006 XC70 with 135K miles rather than getting a 'new' car. The numbers just didn't work for me. The main issue in my car is suspension. The rear creaks and squeaks, while the whole car doesn't take bumps well anymore. Questions: (1). Do I need to change the springs? Ride height is the same all around. (2) FCP offers several shock brands. I really just want the ride I had 5 years ago. Not interested in a 'stiffer' ride... (3) It will need bushing work, as it clunks front and rear. So, I figure new control arms. The rear has so many bushings...can get expensive. If I change the shocks/struts and control arms, Do I have to remove them again if I decide to change bushings in the rear? Trying to divide the work in time groups...at 74, I don't have the strength or patience for a full, complete take off and on. Your thoughts?

Alan, at 135K miles Im wondering why the suspension is so worn out......or if it's worn out. Most of the original parts should still be in relatively good working order at that mileage. I wonder if a previous owner got ambitious and replaced some of that stuff with cheap parts and now they're worn out? Also, what part of the country do you live in? Often winter road salt and debris will cause suspension to creak when its dry, easily remedied by spraying dry graphite lubricant on bushings. What's probably clunking is the stabilizer end links, those will be worn out at that mileage, but not likely much else. What condition are the tires in? That makes a big difference in ride.
I would get a buddy and a prybar and spend some time underneath to pinpoint what is actually worn out and needs replacing. Springs should be fine as long as they're not broken or excessively rusted.
And finally, if you don't want to be doing this job again soon, buy only parts in blue boxes that say Volvo on them, the price will be a tough pill to swallow but you'll only have to swallow it once.
Hope this helps.

[Vova585]

My point of view:
1. If you feel like you are able to do this job by yourself- proceed. If you have reservations- a) in case your state require yearly car inspection-bring to the dealer and let them check it for you. $21 in glorious NYS and you have a good list of what needs to be replaced. b) if your state does not require it- find good independent shop and ask them to check this car for you. You may be pleasantly surprised that it only needs simple stuff, or be disappointed with many cracks/leaks and other stuff. Diagnostic process on the lift is way better than on the ground.
2. With information above, go to FCP euro(sorry IPD, but warranty and free shipping is unbeatable) and make your price list. To the amount that you got add 30% more cuz nothing never goes to plan and you will need more parts than you expected. With that amount in mind think ilhow much you will need to invest into tools(cam rent majority of them through advance or zone). If not comfortable with compressing springs yourself-factor 1h labor to pay shop to do it for you, so about $150. Then think about all other components that you think soon will go bad and factor that in total price. If after this math you are still interested to keep 20 year old volvo-we share the same wing in asylum. (I am really trying to discourage you from this decision and much rather recommend to lease a new car especially if you dont drive long distances)
3. I never had good luck with aftermarket springs or even complete strut assemblies(and I bought Sachs and not TRQ or other chineesium). From my experience the best springs are original oem and not lesforders(broke on me after 40k of very gentle driving and pierced through front left tire). It is your money and your decision.
4. Don't forget about front wheelbearings, at this millage they are likely were replaced once and will need to be replaced soon. I dont like any IPD bushings and rather stay with regular mounts(yes your bushings will last longer, but what about stress on anchoring metal, ride quality? )
Front suspension and motor mounts will likely cost you around 2k after alignment. Rear suspension is more robust and usually require only springs and stabilizer bar links.

[jonesg]

135K miles is nothing.

Mine is at 240K and rides fine, I'm 74 too, I adjust my driving style to match.
Initially I bought subframe bushings because I read they're needed at a certain mileage, 8 years later they're still in the box.
I would have a shop put it on a lift and diagnose it before throwing parts.

[vtl]

The only thing that the rear suspension usually needs (besides already mentioned shocks, springs and sway bar end links) is 4 bushings of toe arms. They like to freeze dead, no alignment is possible without replacing the bushings and bolts.

Mine is factory original old, I too have a box of bushings I got who knows how many years ago, but never felt the pain of that job can be justified.