67 P220 eletrical issue

[scot850]

Yes we are slowly aging out for sure.........................

Neil.

[122sPhil]

Ive been using this Penetrox -A stuff.

heres an article
https://sw-em.com/anti_corrosive_paste.htm

That whole website is fun too! love the humor.

also check the " springiness "
- if you heat copper or brass and then quench it , it removes the hardness, or spring tension, this can affect spade connectors but especially those little fuesbox contacts.

if you heat ferrous metals and quench , in general, this hardens the metal, but copper and brass work opposite.

sometimes things happen and you might encounter a hot fuse and then some may be tempted try to cool it with a wet cloth. Do not do that !
It can remove the spring tension , next thing the fuse contacts don't have as much spring pressure.

when a fuse has bad contact, it is basically a litle resistor and can generate heat, heat can affect the tension and dirty contacts add resistance which means heat. slippery slope !

Often when people solder things, they often will have a small water soaked sponge handy. this works well to clean and add soder to a soldering iron , a clean and well tinned tip will transfer the heat and allow it to solder properly. it is also an easy way to remove a blob of solder if you put on too much. the other way is to use a solder sucker or a solder wick to remove excess solder.

a common mistake when soldering is to not look after the tip of the soldering iron in this way, and then when they try to solder with a dirty tip they are holding the iron on for an extended period waiting for the solder to melt, often overheating the parts they are trying to solder.
if things are clean and the tip is properly tinned, the heat transfer is very fast.
often I will use an allgigator clip, or small vice grips near the solder joint as a heat sink so that the wire isn't transfering heat down the wire and overheating other parts.
For example the spade connector nearby..

if the spade connector is overheated and looses tension it wont fit tightly anymore.
if it is clean it will make contact and all fine but because it has less tension problems come back in a year or two once corrosion takes place.

as you insert of change fuses, or if they have been soldered, note if the spring has enough tension.

with relays, you are oftne inserting more than one spade into a block of spade connectors. so you cant; feel them individually then..

so take a piece of wire with only one spade, go and stick that into the connector block so that you can feel each one separately, if they are not tight you can often just give them a carful little squeeze up.

there are lots of products, Ill often use a bit of steel wool but track that theres not stray its shorting things, sandpaper, or you might try an acid like vinnegar or lemon juice or a silver polish may have ingredients to actually chemically remove tarnish.

steel wool can cause shorts , but also the stuff is flamable, If you short it it can actually go into flames. Im always suprised how well it burns, try buring it with a match, the stufff is surprisingly quite flamable..
Bits of stray stuff can cause shorts but if stuff is removed, well Ill often use it, but with that caution. you don't need soap pads but you can wash the soap out of them if what you have handy is a wool pad with soap from the kitchen..

easy way to collect stray iron bits, put a magnet inside a ziploc and use that, easy to get the debris off the magnet after, just remove the magnet from the bag.

I'll often use deoxit cleaner, its well recognised as one of the better cleaners also expensive. but even with that. I do not find I can spray it on a part and see it magically change to being shiny like a new penny.

I have a small pen like tool it is loaded with fibers of glass like fiber optics stuff, Ill use it often with deoxit or alcohol to clean with. get hem from electri=onics stores..

otherwise, little wire bruses, I get small ones like a toothbrush welding suppliers sell them. Ill buy some stainless and some brass ones.

Best to take the minute to pull a battery lead first, save an accidental melt down then you can go at cleaning without worry of shorting stuff out.

take a pic or draw a picture, then remove the fusebox if you like.. as long as you have a good record you won't get it confused and miswired.

I keep some rolls of number tape , I'll put numbers on the wires if it gets confusing. 3M makes a nice little holder and then you can buy rolls of each number to refill it. worth having one. - any electrical parts supplier will have that , you can buy little booklets of number tape, they are cheaper.

if you are concerned about the rivet not contacting you could add a little jumper, maybe a bit unsightly but you cna probably also jump the connetion so you dont rely on the rivet to make contact.

i fthings are riveted the electrical parts stores usually have small screws that are brass with a plating, used for thigns like holding electonic boards it, you can replace rivets with smalll screws washers and tiny bolts, they come down to 1mm or so .. better to use plated brass ones than iron ones that will rust. it's probably an option if you want to open the parts up to clean better but peening them probably did what you need.

[122sPhil]

Yes we are slowly aging out for sure.........................

Neil.

i thought I was becoming an old fart, but I found out that old farts do not actually even exist !

[scot850]

[122sPhil]

im not positive byut have a look at the alternator , the volvo ones and I assume the AC delcos have a little unit held by 2 screws. I know that on volvo 240's and 740's I have removed it without remving the entire alternator.

once removed there , it is a little block with brushes, I believe this is also the regulator and you may replace it cheaply.


while it is off, peer down where the brushes ride, there are two slip rings, if they get rough then it will eat one or both brushes.
it is possible to change the slip rings but didnt look too easy to do. what i have dome in the past if they are rough is to ut themon mylittle lathe and file or sandpaper or cut them a little just to remove any roughness and make them shiny and smooth.

ideally both brushes wear until they loose contact so it is good tpo check the brush lenght for reliability anyway.
hers what I'd do,

pull the alternator, take it apart,
look on ebay, here is a little parts kit, but Id make sure the parts you have look similar.
appears that om the GM one the brushes are separate fromt he regulator.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/388651899085?_ ... R-CziLLJZg

if the above link fails just try searching for " Delco 10Si alternator parts" id try to ID that what you see inside is similar to the pics.

the diode seems ot be a part of the kit. a diode only allows current in one direction so just check for continuity with your meter, it should not be open or allow reverse current.

three diodes can be arranged to form a "bridge rectifier" sometimes it is jsut one component. im not sure if a bridge recctifier is involved but if you see a little square cube, it could be a bridge rectifier.

the 30 V AC may just be some erroneous voltage and nothign to be concerned about Im not too sure.

if you get into the alternator, spin the bearings , see if they feel rough.
as an alternative they are probably not to expensive if you just go and replace the entire thing.
bearings always have ID numbers, if you recod the numbers and google them youll find new bearings, I like to get them locally and ask for a good brand that says somethign recognisable ,SKF FAG, there are others that are common makes. there are a lot of cheap ones simply lableed CHINA, I'd avoid those ones if possible for reliability.


I did have issues wiht a volvo 240 alternator not charging , I went to a local alternator shop and got a rebuilt one, I returned it and they said it works fine. they can useully just bench test them easily.

In that case found the blue ground wire that leads near the waterpump had a bad connection and i had replaced with a new alternator before I found the actual cause was the ground. my mistae was transplanting the wire at the alternator end and it wasnt; visible that the other end was a bad connection to the motor.


also look at your battery, follow the ground wire, it willlprobably go tot he body and maybe near the starter, Id actually remove it to clean up those contacts, everythign in the car that is electrical uses theis return path so it basically runs everything. if it becomes a poor contact it can create a lot of strange symptoms..

with a bad ground any electrical device will have the bad ground in circuit, if you think of it as being a resistor in series with the circuit, well there is a voltage drop through the electrical circuit and another voltage drop through the bad ground, so what you have then is the electrical circiut operating at less than battery voltage.

similar wiht the red wire and its big fat wires, good to clean those to make sure they are ok too.
I dont really trust ohmeter readings for this , your DMM is not really putting an amp load on the circuit. you can also bridge in a spare ground or hot using a jumper cable , black to motor or red to the starter terminal along with the big fat red wire.. . if duplicating the path makes a change you are onto something important.







If I was depending on it I;d order parts then disassemble or just replace the whole unit. , if you are working on a spare car and have time Id take it apart, see what you find then order parts and save a few bucks. looks like its only about 15 bucks for the parts kit. GM and delco ones are really common.

if you want to change the bearings you might need a bearing puller or sometimes Ill use a hydraulic press or if without maybe a brass rod and some careful tapping to get he bearings off. it is not preferable to hammer upon bearings. sometiems I can use screwdrivers to pry and maybe tap a brass rod against the inner race if there is room.

with the volvo 740/ 240 one , the brush holder comes with the brushes in a compresssed state and there is a little bail wire or similar that you pull out once you get them in place, it releases them.

I think this sensing that turns the idiot light on the dash on, is linked to the regulator. you cna check those connections.