Front ball joint tool - worth having or not? - 06 V70/XC70 Topic is solved

[vtl]

I mounted my vice and a cheap drill press guide on my press so that it serves three functions. That’s the magic number for anything in my life , it has to have three functions or more to buy.

$150 press, 10 uses, $15 per use but each use saves me hours of pounding and damaging stuff with hammers.

Last time it was pushing a stuck axle from a bad hub. 5 minutes

I have a cheap HF press, and I wish I've got a better one. Used it so many times, it deserves to be of a better quality. Latest use case is bending metal for fabrication, bought a brake attachment for that.

[crasbe]

Has nobody used heat on the surrounds of the ball joint to help get it loose? I seem to recall doing that one time.

Usually it's discouraged to heat aluminium suspension parts because you can alter the metal structure without realizing it.
I know that people will start saying "I've been doing that for 20 years and nothing ever happened", but it's better not to do it if it can be avoided.

[scot850]

I agree, but the issue is if you do extended heating of an aluminum part. I have that concern with powder coating aluminum wheels. They definitely get softer. In this case you are only heating it for a short time to break the corrosion between the metals.

Your point is noted though!

Neil.

[vtl]

I agree, but the issue is if you do extended heating of an aluminum part. I have that concern with powder coating aluminum wheels. They definitely get softer. In this case you are only heating it for a short time to break the corrosion between the metals.

Your point is noted though!

Neil.

The cheapest 12 Chinese tons Harbor Freight press had no problems pressing those out, with all the corrosion. If anything, I would advise directing heat towards metal shell of the bushing, which you can do with inductive heater. Heating the whole control arm with propane torch is counter-productive and alters metallurgy, as already said.

[scot850]

Don't heat the whole arm, just the area around the ball joint. Anyway, I now have a tool for this!

There a quite a few presses for sale on FBM and other mediums locally should I ever wish to invest in one.

Thanks for help guys. Oh, an induction tool would be nice. Anyone tried one of those cheap ones that worked?

Neil.

[vtl]

Oh, an induction tool would be nice. Anyone tried one of those cheap ones that worked?

Cheap enough? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DD7HY3ZB

I use it mainly on my 5ish years Toyotas, which have corrosion problems unheard of in P2 Volvo world. The toughest job was pressing the rusted bolt out of the leaf spring bushing without damaging the rubber. A few cycles of heating with this inductive heater and cooling with PB Blaster, and that b*****d gave up and was successfully pressed out.

[br0dy519]

Do people leave the knuckle on for BJ removal/installation? I always just removed the full knuckle and did it on the bench. Not enough leverage with the unit on jack stands.

[vtl]

Do people leave the knuckle on for BJ removal/installation? I always just removed the full knuckle and did it on the bench. Not enough leverage with the unit on jack stands.

On the bench (garage floor) always.

[abscate]

You break a lot fewer fasteners working on the bench, making sure bits are square and tools are on correctly.

One stripped head and all the time “saved” on hacks is taken back by the Tool Devil. On the bench, he is vanquished and banished back to the chain muffler shops

[Krons]

Do people leave the knuckle on for BJ removal/installation? I always just removed the full knuckle and did it on the bench. Not enough leverage with the unit on jack stands.

I’ve always removed the full knuckle, plus that way when I give up and take it to a shop it’s a whole lot easier to carry in and let them do the work … for pretty cheap.