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Plastic tube stuck in differential - 2010 xc60 3.2 liter AWD Topic is solved

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eheffel
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Post by eheffel »

While suctioning out old fluid from the differential (rear), a section of my plastic suction tube broke off and is inside the differential. I COULD see it and attempted to grab it through the fill/drain hole - fail - and now I cannot see it. Car is still up on jack stands in my garage. What to do at this point? Thanks much.
2010 Volvo XC60, 3.2 liter, 6 cylinder, AWD, B6324S2 engine. 150,000 miles

Vova585
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Post by Vova585 »

1. Get yourself another smaller tube and suction away diff fluid(if there is any left).
2. I would vote for small borescope in this situation so you can see what you are working with. Flexible articulating borescope can be better since you can have more control and "push" parts towards fill hole.
3. One can try flex claw gripper tool in combination with borescope(fill hole size dependent. ) to hopefully grab on it.
4. Preparation is a key. Cold beer, meditation, chocolate bar, prayer/cursing. As long as your hands are strong and patience there

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volvolugnut
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Post by volvolugnut »

Vova585 has good suggestions. I used similar tools and process to remove a dropped part in a lawn mower transmission.
Amazon has $30 to 40 borescope tool to connect to a smart phone. I saved my old phone when I had to get new phone. Old phone works just fine as device to view borescope and internet, but will not make calls. If I get it greasy, I don't care. I turn it off when not in use to save the battery.
Good luck.
volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
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eheffel
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Post by eheffel »

I found the tube with my brand new borescope - at least the end of the tube. The part I can see is very close to the bolt hole for drain/fill (there is the only access point to the inside) - so close that a grabber is useless, and I have not been successful stabbing it with a pick; so the tube is still in.

I cannot see where the rest of the tube is positioned, but - as you are looking into the drain/fill hole - the tube is angled up and to the right; I'm fairly certain it is resting along the upper front and right side walls. When I move the differential gears (by rotating the rear passenger tire) the tube does not move at all - and I have spun the tire several revolutions in both directions. I also don't hear any odd sounds.

Assuming I don't come up with some new and brilliant idea for grabbing it, do you think I can refill and drive? And for how long? Thanks much for your opinions!

eheffel
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Post by eheffel »

By the way, I was curious what AI would say about this. ChatGPT and CoPilot came up with completely opposite opinions.

CoPilot says: You can refill the differential and drive normally.
A 6 mm plastic tube resting along the upper right wall of the housing poses no mechanical danger and will not contact the gears. You can drive indefinitely with it in there if needed.

ChatGPT says: My opinion: I would not consider it “safe” to drive normally with the tube inside, but your borescope findings make it sound less immediately catastrophic than if the tube were loose near the ring gear. But there are still two big unknowns: 1) You do not know where the far end is. The visible end may be harmless, while the hidden end could be closer to the ring gear, bearings, or oil path. 2) Driving loads are different from hand-rotating one wheel. Under power, the gears churn oil, the case vibrates, the differential heats up, and the tube may soften or shift. Hand-spinning the tire is a useful test, but it does not prove the tube will stay put on the road.

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volvolugnut
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Post by volvolugnut »

Try some sticky tape on a stick to grab or move the tube. Then you may be able to grab with the finger retractor tool. Maybe long nose pliers? Maybe an oring pick or stiff wire to move the tube to better place to grab?
Good news is you can see and know where it is.
Keep trying new ways to grab it.
volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
John Deere 214 lawn tractor about 1977 model
And others.

Vova585
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Post by Vova585 »

Ditto with volvolugnut about curved grip tool. I would suggest to look into medical equipment they will be pretty tiny and be able to grip good.
P.S. this time AI is not good. Do not drive if you dont want to have a new/used angle gear and invest another 10 hours to replace it.
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eheffel
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Post by eheffel »

Final Result: I couldn't get it myself. It was sitting loose against the same "wall" as the drain/fill plug, and just above the plug. Neither I nor the Volvo mechanic could see it with a scope, or grab it (I did see the end of the tube briefly until I nudged it while trying to grab it). So, they disassembled the differential - and I got my plastic tube back, now valued at $500. I think I'll frame it as a memento to not doing stupid S**t.

Vova585
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Post by Vova585 »

Congratulations on having this issue solved. Dealer charges 250 to change bewel gear fluid. So you got new fluid inspection for 500. No stupidity, just bad luck. We all been there and made costly mistakes.
The only thing different that I would do here, pay for resealing of the bewel gear and replacing the color sleeve. If you already there...

eheffel
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Post by eheffel »

@vova585. Thanks for the thoughtful reply. I am planning to change the bevel gear oil - but just the oil. The info I've seen [online] only suggests an oil change. But, this is the first Volvo I've owned so I don't know much about them because I haven't had to do any work .... although @ 150k I probably should have done this kind of maintenance stuff a while ago. So, I'd like to hear your thoughts.

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