94 850 Turbo keeps cutting out

calbrit01 · Post by **calbrit01** » 24 Nov 2008, 12:51

The car wouldn't start while at work, then started about 30 mins later. Later that day I stopped and it wouldn't start again. Next morning I had the shop look at it, but they couldn't find a fault.

Drove it for another week ok, then sent it in to have the timing belt changed. They found parts of a alternator belt that had snapped previously wrapped around the camshaft position sensor, so we thought the issue resolved.

2 weeks later it happened again, only this time the car would not start again. The shop said they found a spark going into the coil, but non out so replaced the coil and control unit. It started but continued to cut out, so they went ahead and replaced the cam shaft position sensor. Same again, it started but continued to cut out.

Now they are saying they found a service bulletin which claims that ignition control wiring becomes oxidized and causes this problem, and will take 1&1/2 hrs to clean all the contacts . Have to say, haven't seen this flagged as an issue on the forum or repair database so I am a little skeptical. Has anyone else seen this issue, or know what other things may cause this?

Thanks

SAL

BTW, has had new plugs, leads, distributor cap, rotor arm, timing belt (&water pump), vacuum elbows.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 24 Nov 2008, 16:18

Sorry, but never heard of that bulletin...have heard of the ignition wire being too close to the cam shaft position sensor and needing to be zip tied away from it causing similar, so you might take a look at that.

calbrit01 · Post by **calbrit01** » 26 Nov 2008, 13:45

Thanks MIJ,

The latest is they say they are replacing the computer module as all grounds go back to there, and they believe its a ground fault. I'll have them check the ignition wire,

Cheers

SAL

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 26 Nov 2008, 15:13

They found parts of a alternator belt that had snapped previously wrapped around the camshaft position sensor, so we thought the issue resolved.

They are on opposite ends of the engine. The cam position sensor is on the transmission end (back) of the engine and the serpentine belt is on the front.

It may be to late but I'm starting to question some of the diagnosis and cure. Is your check engine light on and have you pulled any codes from port A-2?

...Lee

jcoll169 · Post by **jcoll169** » 30 Nov 2008, 20:38

I am having the same problem with my 94 850 stationwagon, and I've also had the same things fixed as well. I bought the car in March and my problems started happening in August.

My car will start and then cut out, to the point where it wouldnt start at all. I had it towed to the shop and when they checked it, it started with no problem. They changed the spark plugs. By the end of August it happened again, they couldn't find anything wrong with it when I brought it in. They changed a rotten vacuum line and it didn't happen again until November.

In November I had a problem with an oil leak, brought the car in and replaced the oil filler cap. A week later the problem happened again. I went to someone else to fix the car, I had to have the car towed because it wouldn't start. It would turn on and then die. They replaced the distributor cap and replaced some wiring. It happened twice while it was raining and twice when it was really hot out. So I don't know if its related to weather or not, but it seems like it.

Everytime I had it towed, I asked people around me to help fix it before I tow it, They would say it may be the fuel pump, because it starts and then sounds like its not getting enough fuel to the engine so it stops, and each time I told the mechanic and they said on Volvo's it could be something else. I'm a female and just figured the mechanics were just fixing anything to get the car started.

It happened again on Black Friday (raining again), I was stuck for a half hour with a three year old in the car. Not fun. If there is any suggestions, or if you find out what works to fix the problem I would greatly appreciate it.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 30 Nov 2008, 20:57

Welcome to MVS.
Where are you located?
Maybe we can recommend a good independent Volvo mechanic or shop.

I know it's frustrating when you don't know what might be the cause of your no-crank condition. A lot of these issues are simply bad or corroded grounding points or connections to the battery. From what you describe it is very hard to tell and could be dozens of different problems. One thing that you could do is to read your trouble codes from the car's computer when it happens and posting the codes back up here. This would require lifting the hood and accessing the diagnositc box under the hood, but you may not have any codes until this happens again, and if the issue is electrical, you might not get any codes at all. Let me say that I doubt it is your fuel pump or fuel pump relay as your no-start condition is too sporadic. You mention weather (rain) related and this could be, but typically this is the rotor or cap that gets moisture in it and from what you describe, the cap has already been changed.

Sorry I couldn't be more helpful.

calbrit01 · Post by **calbrit01** » 01 Dec 2008, 16:28

I am still tearing my hair out with my issues. The latest is the mechanic said they opened the computer module and found some pitted circuit, so it would be fixed today. I am not holding my breath on this one. No CEL, but I did try and pull codes anyway from the OBDII ( yes some 94's do have OBDII's ), but nothing. I do get the knock sensor code thrown from time to time, but it usually goes away when I find vacuum culprit.
He has said his next step is for a volvo specialist, but he's had the car over a week now, and I am just borrowing cars to get to work/kids etc, so this is frustrating. I heard mention you may know a local good Volvo mechanic - I am in Spring Valley, which is about 10 miles from downtown San Diego if you know of any in my area.

Thanks

SAL

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 01 Dec 2008, 16:44

Sal, thought I would be able to help you but I really know nothing about your area....maybe others would. I only see dealers in your area and only 2 with ratings.
Word is that if you have to go to the dealer, avoid Carlsbad Volvo. Some rave about San Diego Volvo, so guess that's the best place. Like I said, maybe someone else can post about a good independent or better yet, one of our members lives near you and can give you a hand.

calbrit01 · Post by **calbrit01** » 01 Dec 2008, 17:46

Thanks MIJ, obviously dont want to take it to a dealer, so will try to find another independent, just wondering if anyone in my area cold reccommed someone. This guy was recommended to me, and in all fairness he hasnt charged me for trying to diagnose the fault but maybe a volvo speicalist would have more luck.

latest is the mechanic is stumped, his new info is that problem seems to be more widespread - he says that even the injectors arn't pulsing, he recons there is a grounding fault soemwhere, but where - with this extra info, anyone any ideas?

All suggestions welcome, no matter how obscure may just be the answer,

Cheers

SAL

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 01 Dec 2008, 18:04

Sal,
All I know is that these things usually end up to be very simple things and hardly ever involve a bad ECU...I don't get the "pitted" comment you mentioned earlier either. Just for kicks, get your mechanic to check where all of the wires enter the bottom of the fuse box under your hood...this is a common area where there is often corrosion and chafing of wires...could be your issue, but maybe not.
I hope you get this resolved quickly without the expense of throwing expensive parts (not to mention the labor) at unnecessary repairs.

Okay, who knows a good indy mechanic in the San Diego are?