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How to install trunk lifts.

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » Replace Trunk Struts Tutorial
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dosbricks
Posts: 1116
Joined: 30 December 2004
Year and Model: '96 855, '98 S70
Location: South Texas
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trunk lifts

Post by dosbricks »

Pull out the seat bolsters (the vertical cushions that are outboard of the fold down seat backs). Just grab it at the top and give a yank, then pull it loose at the bottom. With the seat backs folded down you will have much better access. You will find a place to get a prybar on top of the hook and snap it on.

Compare your old struts to the new ones to make sure the hook size is the same. fcp sent me the wrong ones the first time for our S70.
'98 S70, 230k, purchased new in '98
'96 855 GLT, 163k, purchased lightly used in '99
Onceuponatime RIP '69 Shelby GT500 w/7.0 liter

Frink1234
Posts: 9
Joined: 21 January 2005
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Post by Frink1234 »

OK, tell me what I'm doing wrong. I got the clips off fine. I cannot for the life of me get the claw hook end off! I took the seat bolsters off to get a better angle and everything but they won't budge. I've already bent the crap out of them trying to take them off. Tell me a way to remove the claw hook end of my old trunk strut before I go crazy!
1997 850 Sedan.

User avatar
dosbricks
Posts: 1116
Joined: 30 December 2004
Year and Model: '96 855, '98 S70
Location: South Texas
Been thanked: 2 times

Post by dosbricks »

On our S70 there was a hole in the metal behind the seat bolster that allowed me to use a big screwdriver to pry them on and off.

By the way, take care not to scar up the pistons of the new struts because that could shorten their service life.
Last edited by dosbricks on 29 Jan 2005, 09:04, edited 1 time in total.
'98 S70, 230k, purchased new in '98
'96 855 GLT, 163k, purchased lightly used in '99
Onceuponatime RIP '69 Shelby GT500 w/7.0 liter

Frink1234
Posts: 9
Joined: 21 January 2005
Year and Model:
Location:

Post by Frink1234 »

Ok - I did get the seat bolster off and it gets me a little bit better access but I'm gonna have to wait until tomorrow to go out and buy a pry bar - my screwdriver doesn't do the trick.

Frink1234
Posts: 9
Joined: 21 January 2005
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Post by Frink1234 »

Got the pry bar - worked like a charm. It also made it easier to get some leverage when re-installing. Thanks for your help. Trunk works great now!

Booch

Post by Booch »

I bought the struts to my wagon for 40.00 from "foreigncarparts" on ebay. he had the ones for sedans for 28.00
Cheers!
--
Christopher

Frink1234
Posts: 9
Joined: 21 January 2005
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Post by Frink1234 »

Yep -

That's where I got mine too!

guptash
Posts: 19
Joined: 27 November 2004
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Post by guptash »

95' 850 GLT Wagon

Folks,

$63 and 40 minutes later the struts are fixed. Thanks to this forum, I saved about $240.

I did not have to remove any lights, just opened the speaker grill, pulled out the plastic and used a screw driver to yank the ball joints of the strut, put in the new one and ready to go. Did both struts in about 40 minutes.

VovloFreak

Post by VovloFreak »

Just so you all know...

ebay ID: foreigncarpartsonline
http://stores.ebay.com/FCP-Groton

Online site: http://www.fcpgroton.com/index.htm

Got a set of struts for my '93 850glt from this guy on ebay for $25 plus shipping ($34.50 via FedEx) and had them in my hands 2 days later.

B Osborn

Post by B Osborn »

I bought a product from a local auto parts store made by "strong" for my Volvo S70. They were 18.00 each. All said and done I think you get what you pay for. I bent one getting it in. The clips on the end are metal and narrow which create their own problems. The tollerances on the metal clip were so poor It required me to file them down in the mouth of the opening to get them on the connection bar. Also, the strong clips were so narrow at the end of the clip it was difficult to get on the post without having the clip turn sideways. I cut my hands twice so be careful arround the back of the car. I think I now could have this job done in 20 minutes without the bllod and self mutalation. MAX. Here is how, Take the bolsters out and work the project from inside the car. Buy the german made shocks, it is tempting to buy the cheaper shocks, but the money you save on the shocks gets turned into time spent on this project and if you are not careful a little blood. Tools needed, regular screwdriver with a narro tip, piece of rope 3/8" dia. or so, and a pair of lock-jaw pliers. Remove struts from trunk lid then the posts. I got pretty rough with them getting them off the clips but, they do come off the bar in the back if you work hard enough. Next I used a small piece of rope and looped it around the base of the bar clip You will notice the shape of the clip allows a small rope to go around it and not get in the way. Slip the rope around the end, position the clip and grap the two ends of the rope with the pliers. use the edge of the opening for leverage and the clip will popo right in as you pull downward.

Good luck.

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