Hi, I just replaced my spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor. I started the car, it starts right away. I went for test drive and a few yards from my house the car just dies.
I push it back home checked the plug wires and I couldn't see any sparks from wires #4 and #5. I have also noticed that before I replaced plugs, wires, distributor and rotor, with the battery disconnected and letting it set for a while and after I reconnect it, the car will start. But when I turn it off, it will not start again.
Please help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
850 N/A car will not start, no sparks from 2 plug wires
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Ozark Lee
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 14798
- Joined: 7 September 2006
- Year and Model: Many Volvos
- Location: USA Midwest
- Has thanked: 4 times
- Been thanked: 75 times
For starters, welcome to MVS.
Your problem makes no sense to me.
Unless you have a thermal problem with the ECU then pulling the battery shouldn't change anything other than the fine tuning of the adaptive functions.
How are you testing the spark plugs? It could just be a bad grounding point where you are checking them from.
Lets back up a bit, beyond all of the computer stuff there are three things you need to make a motor run; Fuel, Compression, and Spark.
You have spark on some cylinders but maybe not others, some of the time. You replaced the plugs, wires, cap and rotor.
What brands and part numbers did you replace the originals with? These cars are very, very picky on the ignition components.
For your N/A car the "Dollar a Holler" Bosch FR7DC coppers are the way to go. Out of the box they are gapped at - give or take - 0.035 to 0.040. You need to narrow the gap to 0.028.
For the cap and the rotor the only thing that will work correctly is the Bosch brand parts.
Beyond the plugs and the plug gap I've found that the wires are the next most sensitive thing. In my experience Bosch wires are death and, as much as it pains me to say it, Bougicord is good.
Before you did the ignition component changes did the car run OK or was it trouble before?
The more information you can give us the better we can respond.
Elaborate a bit more on the history of the car and your procedures on what you have done. Hopefully you didn't follow the Haynes manual on spark plug wire locations on the distributor cap - they are dead wrong.
...Lee
Your problem makes no sense to me.
Unless you have a thermal problem with the ECU then pulling the battery shouldn't change anything other than the fine tuning of the adaptive functions.
How are you testing the spark plugs? It could just be a bad grounding point where you are checking them from.
Lets back up a bit, beyond all of the computer stuff there are three things you need to make a motor run; Fuel, Compression, and Spark.
You have spark on some cylinders but maybe not others, some of the time. You replaced the plugs, wires, cap and rotor.
What brands and part numbers did you replace the originals with? These cars are very, very picky on the ignition components.
For your N/A car the "Dollar a Holler" Bosch FR7DC coppers are the way to go. Out of the box they are gapped at - give or take - 0.035 to 0.040. You need to narrow the gap to 0.028.
For the cap and the rotor the only thing that will work correctly is the Bosch brand parts.
Beyond the plugs and the plug gap I've found that the wires are the next most sensitive thing. In my experience Bosch wires are death and, as much as it pains me to say it, Bougicord is good.
Before you did the ignition component changes did the car run OK or was it trouble before?
The more information you can give us the better we can respond.
Elaborate a bit more on the history of the car and your procedures on what you have done. Hopefully you didn't follow the Haynes manual on spark plug wire locations on the distributor cap - they are dead wrong.
...Lee
'94 850 N/A 5 speed
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe
The car is a 1993 850. It was parked during summer because I drive a different car but prior to that it was running fine. The way I test for spark, I pull out a plug wire one at a time and stick a crew driver inside the end that goes to the plug and place it on any metal part in the car, start it up and look for the arc. I mostly do it at night. I have also check the ground wires and they are good.
I just start the car about 2 weeks ago. It started good, i turn it off. Then later when I came back to start it, it didn't started. It just cranks but it can't fire up. I took it to the shop and they found that the AC compressor was bad. I got it fixed drove it home. The next morning it wouldn't start. Same thing, it cranks but can't fire up. I talked to the shop and I was advised me on a tune up.
I bought Bosch distributor and rotor, Bougicord wires and NGK plugs. Tomorrow I will go get the Bosch FR7DC coppers plugs and gap them as you recommend. I also bought a used cam sensor and coil (I haven't put them on yet) locally from a guy whose car was in an accident for really cheap cuz I read some where on hear someone talked about those. When I was putting on the plug wires I followed just how the original oem ones were on. The distributor and rotor was kinda gone though. So the car needed the tune up.
So when I work on it again I will...
Buy those plugs you talked about, gap and put on. If that don't work,
I will move on to the use coil I bought, if that don't work
I will go for the cam sensor, and if that don't work...
I'm crewed lol.
I just start the car about 2 weeks ago. It started good, i turn it off. Then later when I came back to start it, it didn't started. It just cranks but it can't fire up. I took it to the shop and they found that the AC compressor was bad. I got it fixed drove it home. The next morning it wouldn't start. Same thing, it cranks but can't fire up. I talked to the shop and I was advised me on a tune up.
I bought Bosch distributor and rotor, Bougicord wires and NGK plugs. Tomorrow I will go get the Bosch FR7DC coppers plugs and gap them as you recommend. I also bought a used cam sensor and coil (I haven't put them on yet) locally from a guy whose car was in an accident for really cheap cuz I read some where on hear someone talked about those. When I was putting on the plug wires I followed just how the original oem ones were on. The distributor and rotor was kinda gone though. So the car needed the tune up.
So when I work on it again I will...
Buy those plugs you talked about, gap and put on. If that don't work,
I will move on to the use coil I bought, if that don't work
I will go for the cam sensor, and if that don't work...
I'm crewed lol.
-
Ozark Lee
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 14798
- Joined: 7 September 2006
- Year and Model: Many Volvos
- Location: USA Midwest
- Has thanked: 4 times
- Been thanked: 75 times
Double check that the rotor is on tight and the cap is not damaged internally. You are actually OK on the NGK plugs so long as they are gapped properly. The real horror stories are from the Bosch Platinum II, Platinum III and the Platinum IV plugs that you cannot adjust the gap on.
Since all of this occurred prior to the tune up and then continued afterwords I need to go back and scratch my ever balding head again to come up with a reason why. If the car fires on any cylinder it should fire on all of them unless there is some interference to the cam sensor or the RPM sensor that is specific to those plug wires.
There is a TSB that calls for assuring that the RPM sensor pigtail wires are well away from the ignition wires and it costs the princely sum of a Tye-Wrap to fold the sensor wires well away from the ignition wires. Cylinders 4 and 5 (actually 5 and 4 in the proper firing order) are next to each other on the lower part of the distributor cap. The RPM sensor is mounted in the center of the bell housing more or less just below the distributor cap.
The reset by unplugging the battery still makes no sense to me unless the ECU is getting overwhelmed by some input signal. Schematically the ECU is a black box and I have no specific idea as to what decisions it makes under what circumstances other than the broad generalizations that VADIS reports.
I suppose this gives you something to look at, keep us posted as you go.
...Lee
Since all of this occurred prior to the tune up and then continued afterwords I need to go back and scratch my ever balding head again to come up with a reason why. If the car fires on any cylinder it should fire on all of them unless there is some interference to the cam sensor or the RPM sensor that is specific to those plug wires.
There is a TSB that calls for assuring that the RPM sensor pigtail wires are well away from the ignition wires and it costs the princely sum of a Tye-Wrap to fold the sensor wires well away from the ignition wires. Cylinders 4 and 5 (actually 5 and 4 in the proper firing order) are next to each other on the lower part of the distributor cap. The RPM sensor is mounted in the center of the bell housing more or less just below the distributor cap.
The reset by unplugging the battery still makes no sense to me unless the ECU is getting overwhelmed by some input signal. Schematically the ECU is a black box and I have no specific idea as to what decisions it makes under what circumstances other than the broad generalizations that VADIS reports.
I suppose this gives you something to look at, keep us posted as you go.
...Lee
'94 850 N/A 5 speed
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe
Hi,
how is your #2 sparc? CPS is grouping sparc in two groups #2,4,5 and #1,3 when working propperly.
When renewing the cup it is very easy to mix the wire positions and have false firing order. It should be 1-2-4-5-3, pay also attention to the rotor turning direction when checking the wiring.
br Tapsa
how is your #2 sparc? CPS is grouping sparc in two groups #2,4,5 and #1,3 when working propperly.
When renewing the cup it is very easy to mix the wire positions and have false firing order. It should be 1-2-4-5-3, pay also attention to the rotor turning direction when checking the wiring.
br Tapsa
I did everything, still it didn't work. Changed coil with a used one, changed cam sensor with a used out, re-gap the spark plugs to .028. I also changes the capacitors in the fuel pump relay.
It cranks but it won't start. My battery is new, I checked the voltage and it reads 12.82V. I have not changed the fuel filter but will it really cause any thing?
I got two question.
1) When you take off the fuel pump relay-103, the car will not start right? Cuz with the relay on or off the car, the car just cranks but it don't start.
2) The jumper wires to the relay is in the location of the 103 relay right? I had a jumper wire from pin location 15 to 87 and it still just cranks but will not start.
I don't know what else to do. It's starting to get really frustrating.
It cranks but it won't start. My battery is new, I checked the voltage and it reads 12.82V. I have not changed the fuel filter but will it really cause any thing?
I got two question.
1) When you take off the fuel pump relay-103, the car will not start right? Cuz with the relay on or off the car, the car just cranks but it don't start.
2) The jumper wires to the relay is in the location of the 103 relay right? I had a jumper wire from pin location 15 to 87 and it still just cranks but will not start.
I don't know what else to do. It's starting to get really frustrating.
you may need to floor it until start and do italian tuneup
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.ph ... ian+tuneup\
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.ph ... ian+tuneup\
99 V70XC 158K
95 850glt 188K
95 850glt 188K
I changed the coil and cam sensor cuz I read some where on here that those might be a problem and I was able to get those two for really cheap.Pauloil wrote:why did you change coil and cam sensor?
So you mean I should just floor it and try starting and see if it starts?
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