1996 960 Water Pump Replacement

JimVolvo · Post by **JimVolvo** » 08 Mar 2009, 17:16

I have developed a small coolant leak at the water pump (240,000 miles). I have never replaced a Volvo water pump, any guidance or tips before I start?

Post by **billofdurham** » 09 Mar 2009, 16:24

Welcome to Matthew's Volvo Site.

Attached are the VADIS instructions for this job.

960 Water pump1.pdf: (714.96 KiB) Downloaded 755 times

960 Water pump2.pdf: (166.92 KiB) Downloaded 695 times

960 timing belt1.pdf: (805.25 KiB) Downloaded 463 times

960 timing belt2.pdf: (509.32 KiB) Downloaded 387 times

960 timing belt3.pdf: (807.06 KiB) Downloaded 360 times

Let us know the result.

Bill.

JimVolvo · Post by **JimVolvo** » 20 Mar 2009, 20:58

I got busy and hadn't had the opportunity to jump into the water pump replacement. As I suspected it is a bit more involved than the normal vehicle water pump replacement. Do the "special tools", the position measuring instrument and compression tool for timing belt tensioner actually needed.

I'm alright if the camshaft/crankshaft don't rotate, right?

Post by **billofdurham** » 21 Mar 2009, 13:08

If the belt and tensioner have been replaced recently you should not need these tools.

Before removing the belt check by pressing in the relevant place, using thumb pressure, to see how far the belt moves. When you have refitted everything do the same check to see if it is OK.

The camshaft and crankshaft must not move whilst the belt is off.

Bill.

DanR · Post by **DanR** » 21 Mar 2009, 17:12

Yes, all of the those special tools makes it look daunting, but most are for Volvo shops where time savings is the desired effect.

Since you will need to remove the timing belt, make sure the crank, and cams are set to their correct positions, follow the marks. This will ensure you do not damage any valves, with the crank correctly positioned, the cams can be rotated freely with no worries.

To compress the tensioner, if you have a large c - clamp will do it, just go slow, or I use my hydraulic floor jack, place the tensioner on end and jack up something heavy, the back of the car works for me, use a good sturdy allen wrench, the thickest one to go thru the holes in the piston, don't use a twist drill, pulling a twist drill out can make for leaky radiator when you are finished. Just go slow with the jack. I use a thin sheet of plywood to protect the radiator. Also be sure to position the little plastic ring on the piston top, this is there to help if the tensioner fails and will keep the timing belt from jumping teeth.

Make sure the timing belt is tight between cams, then down to the crank from the intake cam, when that area is tight, everything still lined up on their marks, get the tensioner bolted back on, then it will be time to pull the pin on the tensioner.

When pulling pin, after everything else is back in place, pull fast and hard.

Then turn the engine over by hand using a large socket on the crank pulley, two complete revolutions to be sure there are no timing errors. This is a must do.

DanR '94 964 342,000 miles (108,000 on the new engine)

JimVolvo · Post by **JimVolvo** » 21 Mar 2009, 20:12

Thanks Bill and DanR ... believe I have enough info - thanks to you to tackle the job.

Post by **billofdurham** » 22 Mar 2009, 16:43

Keep us updated.

Bill.