Help! mid-project TBelt change question 2000 V70 NA VVT

C@lvin · Post by **C@lvin** » 13 Mar 2009, 08:11

First of all, this is my first time doing a TBelt.

I've been using VADIS instructions and some of Volvospeed's instructions for the 850 and talked to MIJ a couple of times.

I did go clockwise 1/4 turn from when the marks lined up and then back before removing the belt.

I had a heck of a time getting the new belt on and the marks lined up with the tensioner adjusted properly. I had to do it over about 5 times to get the tensioner right and the marks all lined up.

After this last time, on the crank, the mark is in the marked sprocket "valley" but to one side of the valley (before I took it all apart it was right in the middle of the valley. On the cams, they are lined up right on the mark.

Anyway, after redoing this so many times and adjusting the cam pulleys a sprocket one way or the other several times, I am pretty apprehensive about starting the car.
The last time I redid it, I also ran the crank 1/4 turn past on the mark and then back before removing and readjusting the belt and tensioner.

My quesion is, if it's not lined up right is there a way to tell without taking the valve cover off and before trying to start the engine? I've rotated the crank about 6-8 time and I don't feel anything (except the compression - left the plugs in) and I dont' hear anything (metal clanking or scraping). Does that mean it's OK?

Thanks in advance!

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 13 Mar 2009, 09:48

Just turn the crankshaft through a couple of revolutions by hand and recheck the marks. If they line up you should be good to go. I always remove the spark plugs out to make the hand rotating easier and more precise.

...Lee

C@lvin · Post by **C@lvin** » 13 Mar 2009, 11:49

Thanks Lee.

I guess I am just a little obsessive.

Everything turned out fine!

Nice to have that one done.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 13 Mar 2009, 21:15

Glad you got things running!

C@lvin · Post by **C@lvin** » 15 Mar 2009, 08:43

Turning the key to start the car was very stressful - first timer's jitters I guess, but it ran like a top.

It took me more hours than most I'm sure, but I did the Tbelt, Sbelt, plugs, oil change, air filter, cabin filter, and fuel filter.

I will be keeping an eye on the PS pump to see if that leak is the pump or the hose. There has been some prior leaking going on around the pump. The hose was definately leaking but could have been from twisting it around moving the bottle while do the other work. I snugged it up and wiped things down. We'll see.

(Finally fixed the Saab's ABS problem too and almost immediately started having a throttle body issue - I think I need to just stick with Volvos)

Hope your work on your 850 goes well this week.

Thanks for all your help!

Thanks for the help!

RSM-GA · Post by **RSM-GA** » 15 Mar 2009, 08:57

how long did the whole project take you?

Rob

C@lvin · Post by **C@lvin** » 15 Mar 2009, 10:46

How long? I didn't time it exactly, but......

I'd say about 14-15 hours total due to 1) I'm slow anyway, 2) I'm OCD so I have to check things umpteen times before going to the next step, 3) this was the first time for Tbelt, Sbelt, Plugs, and Fuel Filter.

The most time consuming things for me were 1) getting the new Tbelt over the crank pulley 2) readjusting the Tbelt and cam pulleys multiple times until the marks were all lined up and the tensioner properly adjusted 3) getting the Sbelt on.

For someone who claims to be OCD, I did manage to spread tools and parts all over the place so that I couldn't find stuff when I needed them again - this made it take longer as well.

Putting the Tbelt on would be immensely easier if you were to take off the crank pulley as instructed by VADIS, but I couldn't figure out how to keep the crank from rotating while removing the pulley so my fear of messing something up led me to follow the instructions on Volvospeed (Bay 13) which provides instructions for doing it without pulley removal.

The thing that makes is tough to line up the marks with the new Tbelt is that when you adjust the tensioner, it moves the exhaust pulley and the crank a little bit. So I finally figured out that I needed things "misaligned" a little bit before adjusting the tensioner to compensate for that.

I did not remove the plugs first, so rotating the crank was a chore, fighting against the compression. Kind of silly since I was planning the change the plugs anyway. Next time I will definatley remove the plugs.

Also, I did replace the Tbelt tensioner and idler pulley (didn't mention it before). That part of the job was fairly trivial.

I chose not to replace the water pump.

I bought the parts at FCP (got the copper Bosch plugs (7955 I think) at AutoZone for $1.99 each). The whole job was about $200 so I didn't mind spending so many hours on it considering it probably saved me around $700-$800 versus having it done at the "stealer".

FYI, I picked up a 30mm socket at Northern Tool for $2.99 plus tax. They didn't have individual sockets at Harbor Freight.

Anyway, this was a bugger, but well worth it! Hope this helps.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 15 Mar 2009, 11:55

Thanks for the update Calvin. I just refuse to work in my cramped garage and things are still wet with apparently more rain on the way so I haven't tackled anything big yet. Today, I put in center console lights that were burned out...apparently the gear shift light, the cigarette lighter light, the ashtray light and the rear ashtray light are all the same. I got 2 at Clayton last week and noticed that I needed 3. These are proprietary and so unless I'm willing to bastardize a socket and wire in something, I'm stuck w/ Volvo's. Btw, Lee does the soldering in the base of a socket, but I've never done that- stick to what I know. When I got the console out, I spent almost 2 hours cleaning it up. This 850 lived on a farm so all the dust, hay, feed, etc. was pretty caked in around the crevasses. Now it looks sparkly clean. I took each switch out and cleaned where they go in the panels, etc. Also, the wood-grain laminate was peeling or "bubbling up," so I took some 3M glue and meticulously glued and clamped each piece that was doing this- the car looks very presentable now, at least on the interior. When it's sunny out and I have more sunlight I plan on tackling the timing components and water pump- I figure unless tomorrow's a surprise, that will probably be on Tuesday. What I have left today (my schedule) is to take the odometer out and change out the gear and set the mileage to what the ECU says the car has.

C@lvin · Post by **C@lvin** » 15 Mar 2009, 13:15

hee hee, wonder what kind of trouble we'd get ourselves into if we didn't have our cars to piddle with???

Yea, I did the switch bulbs and console cleaning thing when I picked up my S70 a year and a half ago. Amazing how filthy they can get on or off the farm. I've had good luck wiring the Radio Shack bulbs into the sockets on the Volvos and the Saab.

Haven't had to solder any bulbs yet - I can solder but not very good at it. I'll need to start replacing dash lights pretty soon. I have had a bulb out on the clock/trip computer all along and just waiting to fix it until more instrument bulbs go out. Some folks de-solder to get to the clock/trip bulbs but someone has said they "carefully" pried it apart. I'm curious to see what it looks like.

Have a great week!

Post by **tjts1** » 15 Mar 2009, 17:29

I just did the timing belt on a 2002 S40 in my garage yesterday afternoon without a cam alignment tools. Replaced all the pulleys except for the water pump. The easy way to replace the timing belt is to get some whiteout. Once you have the cams aligned with the markings on the cam cover, draw a line across the timing belt and across the cam gear. Do this on both the intake and exhaust cam and the crank pulled and also draw an arrow on the belt to mark the direction of rotation. I didn't remove the crank pulley. You can wiggle the T belt if you're careful with the pulley in place. Once removed, place the new and old belts on top of each other and transfer the markings onto the new belt, keeping the number of teeth between the markings the same. Then replace the pulleys and tensioner and reinstall. With the white lines on both the belt and the pulleys it makes the whole process fool proof. When I have the new timing belt properly installed I used this procedure on the tensioner.
http://volvospeed.com/Repair/s40_timing_belt.html
Scroll all the way down. The whole process took about 3 hours including removing engine mount and replaced the serpentine belt tensioner. So far I've used the whiteout trick on a 960, 850 and the S40. It should work on every whiteblock.

cheers
Justin